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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I caught a fall in the factor 1.7 range on a blue Alien. It was placed in a shallow horizontal crack to the side of and level with the belay, and the impact rotated the piece towards the belay so that only two lobes were still in the crack.
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Gunkie
climber
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Old black Alien on Max Factor at Skytop. Very short fall (on easy-ish terrain)
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Barbarian
climber
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I can't figure out why you guys have so many different sized cams on your rack. A single blue Camelot is sufficient.
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TLP
climber
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TGT, that fall force calculator may work, but elongation in a fall is much greater than 8%. That's the static elongation with an 80 kg weight (as stated in the info page of that very same link you provided). But the dynamic elongation, when the rope holds a fall of that same 80 kg weight, is much much greater than 8%. I think it's close to 30% at maximum impact force (factor 2), but you can find the exact numbers on rope manufacturers' web sites.
Our resident number-crunchers such as rgold and others can enlighten us much more I am sure. Nevertheless, this thread including his post immediately above provides plenty of empirical proof that really small cams and other sketch-fests can hold significant falls. No matter what the numbers say.
I still hate to fall unless my outfit is properly color-coordinated with reds or browns; one of those is bound to result.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Agreed that it seems to produce higher forces than real world experience indicates and it doesn't factor in the energy absorbed by the belayer,a soft catch or a slider.
Still the relative difference between what a Clydesdale can get away with on small gear versus a skinny spurt climber is huge.
I won't even bother carrying a #00 TCU.
#4nut, Yes.
Fallen on those a few times
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Daisy fall on a silver C3, still wince when I think about that one. Multiple falls(3'-10') on purple C3s and 0.2(yellow) Camelot Jrs.
They all hold, but the margin for error is minimal.
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