Shuts.... Rusted and Opening Bad JU JU

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:42am PT
Oh Man.... post em up. The shet your pants wtf is this Ace Hardware I'm gonna die, stories.

The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:46am PT
Yur lucky! Half of the ones I replaced I literally tapped with my hammer and then pulled out with my fingers... the bolts.

If so many only knew the truth of the shet I encountered and replaced.



phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Sep 1, 2015 - 10:28am PT
Thank you so much for taking the time to do that. Quite possibly saving someones life.
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 10:45am PT
Unfortunately, the manner that anyone put them in was..... not so good.

What I found was that the holes that the original bolts were inserted into were oversized/blown out at the initial drill point for a good 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch.

Thus allowing any moisture to enter and ultimately do it's corrosion thang.

A very common issue I encountered not just in them Hills, btw.
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Sep 1, 2015 - 11:50am PT
Thanks for replacing non-ss bolts.

Water will get into the bolt hole regardless of size of the initial hole opening. A slightly cratered hole opening should not affect tension strength since the shear cone develops from near the bottom of the bolt. When the bolt is loaded in shear, the bolt may experience some bending at the surface as well- then if the angle of pull slightly changes because of the bending, the bolt may experience a component of tension.

Are you reusing the holes?
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:54am PT
Negative on the old holes. I always Re-drilled, with a PD in most cases, and initiated a whole new enchilada for either the anchor or pro hanger with SS 5 Piece Rawls, 3/8 or 1/2'ers, Hangers and Anchor Hardware from ASCA. Filled in the old holes and camo'd em up like they never existed.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Sep 1, 2015 - 11:57am PT
I have been replacing a lot of these in Colorado in Clear Creek Canyon(Cat Slab and Highwire Crag) and also at the Monastery near Estes Park. The ones at belays were being used as rappel/lower points and since the metal is soft they were getting worn through and dangerously thin.

Too bad these were a staple of the dirtbag climbers kit for a while.
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:59am PT
Of course they were Locker. You don't fk up, ever. You have too much time on your hands to do so. Move along now.


BTW Locker, which of them "A-Hill Routes" were Your perfect bolts/anchors on? Curious.

I have photos of every route/bolt I replaced there.




Bhilden.... Yup! I will dig through my photos but I have several that were worn down to a Dimes thickness and actually watched people rap off of em.


INSANE!!!
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Sep 1, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
FACT worn cold shuts are stronger than new ones.
COT

climber
Door Number 3
Sep 1, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
Not a shut but why salt water and mixed metals are bad ju ju

Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Sep 1, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao

Sep 1, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
FACT worn cold shuts are stronger than new ones.

Which ones... Those made of Chinese, Russian, French, Mexican or USofA's metals/ones.


And I do not think that applies to a Shut that has less than 1/2 of a MM of metal left to bear on the rope contact area.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Sep 1, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
Why would you think worn shuts would be stronger?
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Sep 1, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
^^^^What?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Sep 1, 2015 - 07:44pm PT
About the worn shuts being "stronger". I remember reading something about the worn groove kept the rope at the bottom of the shut which kept the rope in line and prevented it from riding up the open side and bending it open. It was somewhere on ST, maybe a banquo thread?
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Sep 1, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
Someone did some tests I saw. New cold shuts would roll open at "x" force. The rope would slide out on the shut, opening it to failure. A modest groove would hold the rope in place, strengthening the shut. Of course there comes a point when the shut is compromised.
Bad Climber

climber
Sep 1, 2015 - 08:59pm PT
Thanks, Chief. We all you. Keep the faith and the good works.

BAd
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
And have any of you felt the edges of the "worn groove" on many of the those shuts.


Razor sharp.


Any forward or aft movement of that rope and cut em up baby!
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Sep 2, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
Replaced the anchors on top of Killer Pillar today. Only 2 were 5/16" button heads, but I replaced everything as nothing was stainless and I was there anyway. Now, as for those two 1/2" cold shunts with the nice long 1/2" bolts: I clipped into the right hand one and pulled the left hand one just for inspection as I didn't plan to replace those monsters. Just as expected, all was good with just a little surface rust. The right hand one was loose and would not tighten up so I decided to pull it also. As I loosened it I noiticed the bolt was bent, and when removed I found a 1" long horizontal crack at the base where the bolt goes thru and a vertical crack part way thru in the same location as the horizontal crack. There was fresh chalk on the holds below and a bit of spilled chalk on top. Who ever is working this route (The Hundredth Monkey) will probably be pissed off to find one of those monster cold shunts missing and a whimpy 3/8" stainless 5-piece bolt with a ASCA FIXE hanger in it's place. If anyone out there knows who is working this route you could tell them that I will be in my shop behind the Volunteer Field Office all day tomorrow and they can come by and have a look at what they were falling on.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Sep 2, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
1/2" The Chief.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta