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20_kN
Sport climber
20 kN Land
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 31, 2015 - 01:39am PT
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Yet again a broken Climb X hanger photo came across my news feed. I think this is the fourth case I have heard about this problem.
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Aug 31, 2015 - 04:44am PT
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They're 34% off on their website right now, seems like a deal since the failure rate is way lower than that ;-)
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franky
Trad climber
Black Hills, SD
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Aug 31, 2015 - 07:44am PT
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solution- buy the tried and true, Fixe.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Aug 31, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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Jumping Jeesus in the Cross! Bolt hangers have been around for ~50 years. How difficult is it to design and make a reliable one in this day and age?
"For Pete's Sake!"
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couchmaster
climber
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Aug 31, 2015 - 09:54am PT
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Simple Crunch. Here's 3 ways to screw up a bolt hanger. I'm not saying that occurred here, although any could be the issue.
1st) You skip the passivation process. Easy to do.
2nd) Possibly cleaning it with some kind of Chloride solution to get the oil off before you ship it. Chinese/ROC are very literal (and honorable) when they get an order. If you don't tell them to harden a screw, it won't get hardened for example. If you told them to "remove all machining oil before shipment", but didn't specify the method so they used some type of caustic pickling solution or chloride cleaner, you'd have issues. The picture in the first post exhibits classic characteristics of SCC and something along those lines is what I think most likely occurred. More on that: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_corrosion_cracking
3rd) It may be that a print was sent over with out a material spec, and "stainless steel" was ordered, and the factory had a bunch of other material like 410 Stainless or like (insert alt non 18-8 material here) laying there and ask: "Can we use extra 410 stainless from canceled job we give you discount" and it was approved.
Ask Jim Titt, he's an expert in this stuff, he may have 5 more reasons.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 31, 2015 - 09:55am PT
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Not really any surprise.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Aug 31, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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Rot-gut bottom of the barrel hardware from a knock off of low-end Mad Rock turns out to be rot-gut bottom of the barrel quality. News at 11.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Aug 31, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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I have pulled a lot of bolt/hangers and some pretty violently. I have never had one break and the only broken ones I have seen were those thin SMC ones. I agree; FIXI are the best!
Oops, I did see the after effects of when that big rockfall on Hall of Mirrors took out a couple pitches Clint and I had replaced a couple seasons before. A couple FIXI hangers were torn apart, but most were intact, just flattened.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Aug 31, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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They are just a little broken, whats the big deal?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Aug 31, 2015 - 02:18pm PT
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all this fuss over busted churchkeys?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Aug 31, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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SS is brittle when there is not enough nickel in it and makes for a shiny time bomb.
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couchmaster
climber
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Aug 31, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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Batrock asked: "They are just a little broken, whats the big deal?"
Ya think that hanger will probably buff out then? Might. LOL
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 31, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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Oh I'm sure a little buffing & maybe a little glue. It's all good.
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AAA
Big Wall climber
The great America!
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Yea, Climb Tech and Climb-X are two very, very different companies....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I use climb tech. good american made stuff. Never bought climx hangers but did buy about 20 pagan hangers about 5 years ago? hope they wern't the same shite..
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Surprised nobody has mentioned Fusion Brand hangers.
I remember some bad press on the metal.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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I can see the problem from here. Some idiot tightened the nuts up with a wrench. Finger tight only for these babies...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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I use climb tech. good american made stuff. I thought Climbtech made their hangers in Taiwan?
Fixe - Spain, Petzl - France, Metolius hangers used to be US but went to Korea many years ago - not sure any hangers are made in the US anymore? Maybe the Metolius rap hangers are still made here (those are not stainless by the way…). Moses of course, but Theron is not exactly in the bulk hanger production business.
Of course with Leeper and SMC in the made-in-the-US hanger history catalog, might not be a bad thing!
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franky
Trad climber
Black Hills, SD
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Solution- don't trust your life to a single point, I guess.
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