Climbing Shoe Modifications for Lost Toes

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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 25, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
I'm losing the last joint of my big toe, and the last two joints of the next toe in (index toe?). This will be leaving a void in my climbing shoe once I am able to wear it again (I am currently climbing in a boot until the joints have finished autoamputation).

Apart from other obvious concerns, I'm wondering about what to do with this void in a flexible climbing shoe toebox. Heel-toe technique, toeing in, etc. seem like they would all be compromised.

Does anyone else here have experience with similar foot injuries and have any advice?

For example, I'm wondering if it is reasonable to take my climbing shoe to a shoe repair shop and have the toe-box cut and modified to fit the new shape of my foot?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Aug 25, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
Just get the rest of your toes removed and get little shoes
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Aug 25, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
Barry's Resoles does custom work (and great resoles too). Until recently I didn't know he was on the taco but he does. I think he goes by "TwoShoes" here. Also Locker does great resoles and I'd bet he's up for the task as well.
WBraun

climber
Aug 25, 2015 - 06:20pm PT
Cathy Bates in "Misery" ^^^^^
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
Limpingcrab: Just get the rest of your toes removed and get little shoes

Maybe I can afford the custom shoes after selling the toes?

Although seriously, thanks guys for the suggestions. A friend also found this link that has some additional ideas:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forum/Climbing_Information_C2/Gear_Heads_F40/Lower_Bilateral_Amputation_P1423150/
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 27, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
Dude, What happened to the toes?

I second Barry's resoles, he can surely fabricate a block or new rand etc.. for you.
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
Aug 27, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
Aug 27, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
Seems like a custom last is the right answer, though i could also imagine a much more customized insert that could be fitted around the foot and then slipped into any extant shoe, thus eliminating the need to pretty much buy a new custom shoe each time the point wears out - whether out of custom molded steel or other - something like a pre-moulded prosthetic that slips around the foot and then into the shoe. A close friend is a professional prosthetician - i'd happily pass along his contact info if you like; does a lot of work with unusual injuries, especially combat injuries.

p.s. i TOLD you not to stick your foot in that turtle's mouth..
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Aug 27, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
A climbing shoe cobbler is not a shoemaker. Locker knows what he talking about on this one.

I suggest you email this guy, who is a climber, in Omaha, Nebraska: dan.ballarin@gmail.com
Dan does orthopedic and prothesis work. You could probably do a custom cast and send it to this guy.

Next best bet is Luis' Custom Shoes & Boot Maker, Fresno, CA 559-222-7091 This guy has never made a pair of climbing shoes, but could probably modify a pair. After he modifies the upper, send it to locker to get the rubber work done. This guy started the trade at 14 years of age. George Bush the First flew all the way to Fresno, years ago, to have Luis custom build him a pair of cowboy boots. It was in the Fresno Bee newspaper.

Best of luck!
lcshu

Boulder climber
Oct 25, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
Hi all, I'm the designer for SFT Climbing. Thanks so much for sharing our work, but unfortunately, we're no longer making climbing shoes. If you're still looking for a custom option, try kN Climbing (https://knclimbing.com/); or one of the other places we listed in our goodbye blog post: https://www.sftclimbing.com/blogs/design/heres-to-further-adventures.


Good luck, everyone!
perswig

climber
Oct 25, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
...but by the third try he had fine tuned the shape and volume of the toe and he nailed it.

Nice, even if not actually intended!

Dale
(chuckle)
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Oct 25, 2016 - 11:25pm PT
Get ahold of Dan Asay from Tony at the Rubber room.

He has been making shoes for folks like you for decades.
Tony Puppo

climber
Bishop
Oct 26, 2016 - 07:30am PT
Tom, Asay is trying to retire, so tracking him down will not yield fruit.
The shoes I worked on for the Warbler would not have been possible without the last he provided.
Best options sound like what Barry posted above
Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
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