Kim Carrigan BOOK

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imaserious

Big Wall climber
melbourne
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
>>>In the spring of 1981 I was climbing at Tremadoc in North Wales. I led >>>a route called Atomic Finger Flake, a wildly overhanging layback


BORIS HANNOBN AND IAN PARSONS  1981
BORIS HANNOBN AND IAN PARSONS 1981
Credit: imaserious


>>>Boris Hannon and Ian Parsons. 1981.

IS THAT YOU ???
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Sep 11, 2015 - 12:31am PT
No, it's not me but I took the photo. It was taken in April 81. The incident with Kim was in May. Atomic Finger Flake is one of a handful of routes that stay dry in the rain (it's underneath the famous Ochre Slab of Vector) - something quite handy to know about in North Wales - and Tremadoc itself tends to get better weather than Snowdonia in general - and so at that time if you climbed regularly in N Wales you'd end up climbing routes like this again and again. I say 'at that time' as now there are far more wet weather alternatives up on the limestone of the north coast - Pen Trwyn etc.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 5, 2016 - 09:28am PT
So what's the current disposition of this book project?
imaseriousyounglizard

Ice climber
mekbourne
Dec 16, 2017 - 09:00pm PT



Credit: imaseriousyounglizard

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=2&MessageID=11090&Replies=429&MsgPagePos=-1#NewPost

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9629l

THE KC BOOK WILL BE THE #1 BEST SELLER OF 2018

THE BOOK LAUNCH WILL BE BIGGER THAN THE TRUMP - NASAz NEW LAUVCH TO THE MOON !!!!

THE BEST CLIMBERS OF 1981 ACCORDING TO KC IN CRAGS MAGAZINE # 32 :
.....................................................................
'...Crags : Do we have world class climbers in Britain ?

KC : Of course. Fawcett is obviously one of the best in the world, BUT THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS THE BEST. He'd certainly make the team though

Crags: What team ? Some kind of All Star 11 ? Do you really have some imaginary team ?

KC : Sure . Tony Yaniro is one just for Grand Illusion ......JIm Collins has to be in for Genesis.....Dougie Hall over here who Ive been climbing with. He's efficient , prolific , bold , totally world class...Obviously Fawcetts in. Its really impressive how he can go almost anywhere and do so many top routes. In Yosemite he's done the top crack climbs when he's not really a crack specialist - routes such as Phoenix........From Yosemite, John Bachar gets in . He's specialized but when he's good he's untouchable. He's just so good at bouldering No one has repeated Midnight LIghtning which is his showpiece right on a boulder in the middle of Camp Four.......Mark Moorhead from Australia who nobody has ever heard of but he gets in because he's done every one of my routes.......Also from Yosemite , Bill Price is probably the best crack climber. His route Cosmic Debris is pretty hard at 5.13.......By reputation, Kurt Albert the German is in and Wolfgang Gullich has done a lot in America . Those are the 2 Germans I know of ... and Jean Claude Droyer from France is highly rated I know.

Crags ; Thats 10 . Who is the eleventh man ? Do you get into the team ?

KC : I think I might...'
...........................................................

IM 1985 KC FINISHED HIS FOUR YEAR PROJECT ... SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS... GRADE 31 ... 5.13d ... only Wolfgang Gullich had a climb of that grade at the time ...


AND OF COURSE IN 1985 KC FREED ALLTHE ROSTRUM AND MADE THE 5th ASCENT OF GRAND ILLUSION...



XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 21, 2017 - 10:42am PT
Thanks for checking in, SeriousLizard!
Enjoyed reading the UKC article by Andy Pollitt.

Oh, and by the way, I may have been misleading you that there was another article by Kim Carrigan on Americas Cup yet to be found.
Perhaps you have figured this out by now.

I'm thinking it was the Jeff Smoot Carrigan/Profile which I posted up earlier in this thread.
Still not 100% on this, but that's probably the article I was referring to. Problem is, I only have the text, and not the photographs which went with it when first published, to help confirm.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 21, 2017 - 10:54am PT
I wonder what other slander and witticisms occurred during the PO Wall ascent?
Darryl would have kept spirits up (until he discovered the grass was left behind)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 21, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
Darryl would have kept spirits up (until he discovered the grass was left behind)

We used to tease him about making the first clean ascent.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 21, 2017 - 11:41pm PT
Jeff Smoot Climbing (93) 26, Profiles: Kim Carrigan

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 22, 2017 - 05:52am PT
Yes, Ed:

I have that article posted in full up thread, text only. (Got it either from you or Steel Monkey)
What I'm saying is, I thought there was another one authored by Kim himself.

But I think the Jeff Smoot article is what I was referring to. (i.e., looking for an article from Kim might be a wild goose chase)
Until I can see if the initial photograph from that article (Climbing 93) includes Kim on Americas Cup, at the Cookie, I can't be sure.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 5, 2018 - 06:04pm PT
Any more news on this book project?
I just did a Google search and came up with nada.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Dec 5, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
hey, just saw this thread. i climbed a bunch with kim in europe in 1983 after the french climbing meet. he was super inspirational and supportive to me. always motivated, it was fun to try and keep up. i did early repeats of some of his testpieces like india and was close to doing the ring route.

last saw him maybe 18 yers or so ago when i was in sydney or brisane.

Besides bachar, he was probably the most influential climber in y upbringing.

steve schneider
ionlyski

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
Dec 6, 2018 - 07:45am PT
When I did my one and only (hopefully that will change) tour of South East Australia and Tasmanian climbing areas, Kim Carrigan's name was everywhere, of course alongside all those other colorful characters. Names like Greg Child, Roland Pauligk, Simon Mentz, Simon-the other guy, Mike Law (sometimes he changed his name to Mike Claw) and so many others I forget just now. I bought a guidebook at every single area just to pour over the history of these scraggly, impoverished but tough climbers.

Is Louise, the wife of Kim that Survival writes about The Louise Sheppard? She was still living in Natimuk and climbing when I was there in 2008.

Arne
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 6, 2018 - 09:58am PT
Yes, Louise Sheppard.
I also wrote about her in one of my reports. Strong ass climber, that one. And the guys were not so bad either!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 6, 2018 - 01:58pm PT
More good Aussie climbing coverage here.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/642582/Arapiles-The-Empire-Strikes-Back-Child-Carrigan-81
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