Yosemite (or other nearby) Crack School?

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erikwright

Trad climber

Ottawa

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 4, 2015 - 05:38pm PT

My California trip is rapidly approaching. I'll be spending from August 9th to 22nd in the area between Tahoe and Bishop.

I'd like to take some time to really master different crack techniques. I guess the ideal would be to find an area with a wide range of cracks of different sizes and difficulties where we can spend some time doing laps.

I have decent hand/fist technique but little to no experience in other sizes.

Any suggestions?

Flip Flop

climber

Earth Planet, Universe

Aug 4, 2015 - 06:22pm PT

eagle lake cliffs should get you started

erikwright

Trad climber

Ottawa

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2015 - 11:20am PT

Thanks! If we visit Tahoe I'll try that. Any specific suggestions in Tuolomne area?

jfailing

Trad climber

part Texas, part Oman

Aug 7, 2015 - 11:32am PT

Go climb as many easy-moderate Tuolumne classics as you can. Some that immediately come to mind:

West Crack on Daff Dome
Puppy Crack
Dozier Dome wall
Regular Route on Fairview

Those would be great crack practice. Puppy crack was a great practice crack for me when I was first learning jamming techniques. Went there with a friend and we ran a ton of laps on that thing (cuz it's short).

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Aug 7, 2015 - 01:09pm PT

some that I've done (or touched) that were not mentioned above

not all are "Valley" cracks (few are) but they are cracks...

Olmstead Cnyon has many crack climbs...
Ivory Tower, Left good wide
Ivory Tower, Center hands to fingers
Miss Apprehension fist
Missile Toe fist
Talk Dirty to Me dirty chimney grovel
Enemy Within great wide!
The Thrill is Gone undercling to wide
The Chamber chimney
Tideline hard, top rope-able hands to thin

Stately Pleasure Dome
South Crack pitches 1 and 2 (traditional topo) fingers

at The Block:
The Block, Left
The Block, Right

Phobos hands and wide, powerful moves right off the ground

Memo from Lloyd burly overhanging hands

Galen's Crack odd sizes to a squeeze to a tight chimney

Honeymoon's Over

Fist Fight

Lembert Dome
Direct Northwest Face

Fairview Dome
Regular Route
Lucky Streaks

The Lamb
Right North Book chimneys
Little Sheba thin fingers

Medlicott Dome
Super Chicken pitch 2, hands, is a great crack in TM...
The Yawn wide and fists

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Aug 7, 2015 - 01:20pm PT

Take a short trip to the Valley and do laps (top ropes easy to set up) on Generator for wide crack/squeeze and Five and Dime for thin hands. You can also top rope Sherry's Crack for fingers.

Crack technique requires a lot of repetition.....find a good crack and then work it to death.