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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
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In an effort to populate this forum with more climbing, post up your favorite or scariest small protection stories. Remember size matters here and the smallest wins!
I once had to make a rope solo anchor out of two black Aliens and a No. 2 stopper, all very carefully equalized. I was extra careful not to fall on that pitch or shock load the rope while rappelling or re-ascending.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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How about no freaking anchor? What size is that! huh? ;-)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yeah, BURT BRONSON and I did a sixty-three pitch route on the north face of Uli Biahole where there was no protection whatever. But since it was a winter ascent, we could cut off a piece of shoelace and freeze it to the wall with a bit of spit for belay anchors.
Shoelace isn't really all that thin, so I don't know if that counts on this thread. And really, since it was BURT and me, belays were pretty much irrelevant anyway. But you did ask...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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EAST COAST
Open C ockk pit - the peanut! A tiny bent flake of Steele I think I have a picture of it . . .
It fits into the only deep finger hole and leaves just enough room to get a tip 1/4 in on top of the peanut.
ее not much surface area making contact
With glassy Quartzie.
Oh, and at Lumpy ridge CO, on Colmans Complex.and on some POS the thumb or some such, I turned the corner to high and got a thin HB brass,
after that , the Gillette brothers asked their sister Mary, the dispatcher for the park service, if I was a BOL ' cause I was gonna die!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I (not once) had to run it for a hundred feet between stances....on easy terrain of course. ;)
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2015 - 09:33pm PT
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It was an anchor in the middle of multiple pitches. It as both a vertical crack and a horizontal crack. I re-arranged it for the downward pull as well as the upward pull.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I took a bad gear ripper in the gunks about 86 or so? #3 chiounard silver soldered micro popped and i ended up upside down 2ft off the deck over a rock w/ no helmet on a #2 Micro. It was an absolutly perfect placement and lived on my rack for annother 15 years as a good luck charm untill i used it to back off a pitch in seneca.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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I always carried a set of RP's--it was never a good thing when they got snapped in.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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And you thought the grey TCU was small:
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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I KNEW IT!!!
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