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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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For someone who has mostly bouldered and sport climbed, even though Snake Dike is not technically difficult, it can give plenty of pucker factor and full-on sense of adventure. For the hike, you divert from the main trail to the summit so you have some time to yourself with now crowds until the actual base of the climb. Or hike at night to avoid crowds.
If you want to do other long climbs (one of the main attractions of Yosemite), you should probably stick with routes that are technically easier than you would normally do. And bring a space blanket to make an unplanned bivy more comfortable. Then just go for it!
On the way in, doing Reed's Direct is a good idea. Easy quick approach, and quick reality-check of your ability with local rock style and ratings. If you miscalculated, you can spend half a day here and feel a bit demoralized. Or if you're self-assessment is accurate, you can blast this pretty quickly (2 of the 3 pitches at least), and skip the OW if that's not your thing, but maybe still do the tunnel-through and up the other side to summit the formation.
Royal arches is technically easy (and easy to dismiss because of that), but it is a classic and satisfying Yosemite experience that you will cherish. Not so much for bragging rights, but for pure enjoyment of movement and views, it's hard to beat as a first-timer to the valley. That slick 5.6 chimney right off the ground can make you go "huh" for a few minutes too if you haven't practiced that technique.
Tuolumne is absolutely beautiful too. But the valley is the valley, and if you only have a few days you have to hit it. Just plan your itinerary to avoid being on the loop road during all normal business hours.
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sheepdog
Trad climber
just over the hill
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My favorite comment from Sally's guide came from the Crest Jewell description: "Over rated and over bolted, what could be better?"
Having said that, if you're considering that route or any other south facing longish route (Royal Arches) in August don't underestimate the water you'll need.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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If you are going to the Reed's Pinnacle area as has been suggested you can easily set up two top ropes that will give you a reality check about Yosemite cracks....Chingando 5.10a wide and Five and Dime 5.10d thin hands.
You can then continue down the road and top rope Generator Crack for some awesom wide crack training.
After that regimen a beer will be well earned.
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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For me...
My favorite moderate route in Yosemite is easily East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. Fun moderate climbing, some fun moderate pitches, right across the street from El Cap all day long. If El Cap wasn't across the street, Middle Cathedral would be quite a prominent formation for any climber.
For cooler temps, OZ (link it with On the Lamb! some do Hobbit Book, I have not yet), Crescent Arch and Third Piller Dana are my 3 favourite in TM. Note that I underestimated Third Piller Dana and it was a lot more serious then I would have expected for a 5.10-.... great setting though. Cathedral and Matthes are awesome too, but more hiking and scenery then climbing.
I recently started cragging at Olhmsted in TM, Tideline and Lord Caffaine are 2 really fun (and stout for me) single pitch, both take great gear but had me gassed when I reached the anchors.
I didn't get to finish, and I was only following, but I had a blast on Beggers Buttress... I don't think it gets a lot of traffic, but it should.
Have a great time in Yosemite!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Don't underestimate the heat in Aug! Climb real early, take a siesta, then climb in the late evening. Unless you're doing something long and high. In the shade...
Great list upstream. Synapse Collapse, That was one great route--likely doesn't get done much now due to the rockfall that happened a few years ago.
No matter what, plan some time in the Yo. High Country. Listen to Clint...
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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That list by Sally Moser is amazingly good!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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sheepdog--I totally resemble your list
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Yes too hot in the Valley. Try The Bachar-Yerian in Tuolumne. A classic.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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do Generator Crack first
LOL.......Don't
My recommendation is to enjoy yourself. It's really easy to get overwhelmed and think you're missing out on the "good" stuff. Just enjoy being in such an amazing place. Get climbing in of course, but let the place overwhelm you in a good way...if any of that makes sense.
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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Hey guys! Headed out tomorrow AM to the Valley. Thanks so much for all the feedback and recommendations. Super stoked for this truly spiritual experience. We will be hitting up Snake Dike (both of our first Trad Leads), and then nut cracker the next day if possible. Thanks again!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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We will be hitting up Snake Dike (both of our first Trad Leads)
I hope you aren't serious or really like adventure.
Snake Dike is easy as far as climbing difficulty, but a challenge in terms of logistics, time, and exposure.
I got stuck behind a slow party on SD one time. East coasters not used to the exposure. They were still belaying on the slabs above the 8th pitch when everyone else was walking to the top.
Snake dike is 8 pitches. You should be able to have both climbers climb, clean, and prepare for the next pitch for an easy climb like this in under 1/2 hour before taking on an 8 pitch climb. If you waste 15 minutes at each belay, which beginners often do, that adds 2 HOURS to the climb. And you'll clog up a very popular climb.
Again it's not difficulties, it's logistics and efficiency. You should have some practice on multipitch before taking on an 8 pitch climb with a 4 hour approach and a 4 hour descent. There's no way in hell you'll do nutcracker the next day unless you are in awesome shape.
Do Munginella 3 pitches, or After 6 5 pitches first. Get used to Yosemite granite. Get your efficiency dialed in first. Then do Snake Dike the next day.
You'll also need to get used to finding the approaches. After 6 is a no brainer, but Munginella will help develop your trail/approach finding. Expect to make a wrong turn or two on the way to Snake Dike and have to back track and waste some time. Read all the beta you can on the approach. Snake Dike is an awesome climb, one of the best in the world for it's grade, but a terrible idea for a first trad climb, unless you are a prodigy. If you can climb Munginella in 1.5 hours or After 6 in 2.5 hours you'll be ready for snake dike.
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CCT
Trad climber
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Seconding The Fet. In general, I would not suggest Snake Dike as a first trad lead. First, it's not really trad. Second, there are easy but high consequences route-finding decisions.
One party I know accidentally climbed Deuceldike when trying to find Snake Dike. From the story, they are lucky to be alive. I believe it involved unprotected simulclimbing on 5.9 friction near the top when they got completely off route.
Another time, a follower of mine didn't manage to traverse left to the correct dike at the right time (how that happened, I have no idea). She took a lot of toprope friction falls before figuring it out. That would have been unpleasant as a leader.
Munginella, After Six, or even Nutcracker are much better warm-ups. If you are looking for something long, Royal Arches is classic.
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Take it easy. Yosemite can throw stuff at you that will really surprise you.
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Sheepdog/John, I can't believe you still have that list. What is it, 30 years old? Too funny to see it as I was paging through the post. I'm going to have to copy it and print it out! Don't forget about Sally's Guide to Tuolumne. Now that I have a copy of.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You might want to consider starting out with short cragging routes to get used to the style of climbing.
Snake Dike has fantastic posistion and it's on Half Dome but the climbing (I use that term advisidly) is boring.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Agree with the comments above. Snake Hike is a looong day out and if it's your first visit you may want to leave it until next time or maybe your last day. I'd recommend Bishop's Terrace at Church Bowl. As said above if you want a long day out then Royal Arches might be a better option.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID or the fricken Bakken, variously
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Can't believe Sally's bad mouthing Quicksilver.
What a puss
😃 Quicksilver isn't a route I'd suggest for a primer. That thing REQUIRES technique, man. Flail & be terrified. Hit it up when you Valley technique is more honed.It IS on the cool side, though...
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Go big or sit by the river and eat It's Its!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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You should think about the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. Ten pitches directly across from the Capitan. It take a full day but it's worth it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yosemite requires an adjustment period.....tread lightly at first. You can always step on the throttle when it suits you.
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