First Yosemite Climb Recommendations...

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jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2015 - 07:23am PT
I will be embarking on my first pilgrimage to Yosemite in less than a month. What are some of the "go to" routes that you would recommend a first timer? Wanting to really enjoy my time there and get in a few, fun, routes to really get a feel for what Yosemite has to offer!

I've checked out the "Yosemite's Best Free Climbing Routes" and leaning towards "Snake Dike" with a few others. Thanks in advance for your input!
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
Aug 3, 2015 - 07:30am PT
Do Snake Dike if you like long tourist filled approaches, baking conditions on route, waiting for slow parties, and uninteresting climbing up a slab. It really would NOT be my first choice for a first Yosemite climb.

Cathedral Peak
Reeds Regular Route
Superslide (Evening for shade)
Central Pillar of Frenzy (Afternoon)

These are better first choices as far as easy stuff goes


johntp

Trad climber
socal
Aug 3, 2015 - 07:31am PT
Manure Pile is a quicky with almost zero approach.

edit: easy is a relative term
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 3, 2015 - 07:37am PT
Sounds like late August.....still hot in the Valley. I would recommend the Steck Salathe.....quintessential Yosemite climb with a lot of shade. You might want to warm up on the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock which also catches some shade.....have fun!
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Aug 3, 2015 - 07:38am PT
In September weather can still be very warm so be prepared for early mornings on climbs on the south facing routes and then moving to North facing routes in afternoon. Be prepared to have several options to climb each day. Toulumne is an option too. Be safe and have a great trip...Welcome to Yosemite.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 08:08am PT
hard to recommend anything with such scant knowledge of your recent climbing...

Donini's would be a great list for some, a horror for others and a complete non-starter for the majority of first timers to the Valley (especially first starters asking STForum for a list).

Every climbing area requires climbers to take their time to understand what the area "features" are... when I haven't climbed in the Valley for a bit I am startled by the smoothness of the features.

Also, it is warm in the Valley through the summer, not to say that there aren't times-of-day that make climbing possible, just that you're going to be warm if you don't seek out the cool spots, which generally are on the south walls, at least until mid-day, the summer sun rides high! The "locals" migrate to the high country (Tuolumne Meadows) for the summer and return to the Valley after the tourist season, when the temperatures are more moderate.

Have you ever climbed in Yosemite Valley?
Where do you regularly climb?
What kind of climbing do you like, are good at?
How hard do you climb trad (have you climbed trad)?
How long will you be in the Valley?

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 08:45am PT
What, no love for Lembert Dome Direttissima? For shame!

OK, if you're not up to that then NE Buttress of Higher beats Steck Salathe,
especially if you're 'spacially challenged', either mentally or physically.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 3, 2015 - 08:47am PT
What Donni said, that sly ol' fox.
sheepdog

Trad climber
just over the hill
Aug 3, 2015 - 09:19am PT
Sally Moser gave me the following informal guide to the Valley in '85 (or thereabouts) when I was moving to the bay area...

johntp

Trad climber
socal
Aug 3, 2015 - 09:25am PT
Sheepdog-

That is a truly wonderful post.
jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 09:36am PT
Have you ever climbed in Yosemite Valley?
Where do you regularly climb?
What kind of climbing do you like, are good at?
How hard do you climb trad (have you climbed trad)?
How long will you be in the Valley?

Hey Ed! Thanks for the feedback. This will be our first time to Yosemite Valley. I am in Atlanta so we mainly climb in Alabama/Tennessee. I personally do more sport and bouldering. Trad is new to me. However, another climber in our group does trad/multipitch frequently. We will be there for 3 full days.

We have a few trips planned in the next few weekends with a close friend who is a trad expert and manager at our local climbing gym. He will be helping us become more familiar with trad. Also will be getting us accustomed to cleaning gear and setting pro (even though I personally will not be leading).
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Aug 3, 2015 - 09:40am PT
I am a big, Very big dog lover, Sheep dogs, while shaggy, fit in there some where.

That Moser Chick, she and I were never thick, then she badgered about working for or joining the baby access fund. Sadly, we lost touch when the package she sent me was not retuned in the affirmative.
Still,t her friends, she lent, both, guys, and the springy things, and they, as she has , did the best intro to Cali ever!


Sheep dog's Sally Moser's list is complete and should be on everyone's list!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Aug 3, 2015 - 11:26am PT
3 daze in the valley/tuolumne will barely give you enough time to grasp where you are. I don't mean this in a bad way, but it is just BIG.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 11:39am PT
End of August - too hot to enjoy the Valley.
Go to Tuolumne instead - cooler temps and beautiful.
 South Crack (Stately Pleasure Dome)
 West Crack (Daff Dome)
 Regular Route (Fairview Dome)
 SE Face (Cathedral Peak)
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 11:42am PT
Cool list Sheepdog - thanks for sharing.

I love the 'better be strong for this one' under Reeds Direct
jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 11:49am PT
^ true. That's why I'm bringing someone with trad experience.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 11:50am PT
Where will you be staying? Going to Tuolumne every day from The Valley will add a lot of driving to your itinerary.

Do Snake Dike if you like long tourist filled approaches, baking conditions on route, waiting for slow parties, and uninteresting climbing up a slab.

Well, the first three can be potentially mitigated by an early enough start. And the climbing is not technically demanding, but I wouldn't call it uninteresting. It's mellow in a phenomenal setting on one of the most iconic pieces of rock in the world, and with a sport background you can take half the leads. Then when you get home you can spray about having climbed Half Dome. Just be judicious with the detals. ;)
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
Aug 3, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
I like Sally Moser's list and undertook one much like it once upon a time. You could do much worse.
The Valley will be hot, but if you don't freak out at a little sweat, then you'll be fine. Have fun & start early, finish early....it'll be glorious. Fill us in, perhaps?
jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
I like Sally Moser's list and undertook one much like it once upon a time. You could do much worse.
The Valley will be hot, but if you don't freak out at a little sweat, then you'll be fine. Have fun & start early, finish early....it'll be glorious. Fill us in, perhaps?

That list is amazing. Especially since it's circa 1985. This trip to the Valley has been calling me and I know that, even if I wouldn't be able to climb, it will be life changing. I'll gladly provide an update, possibly TR, after my journey from a first time visitor! Thanks for the advice.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
Aug 3, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
Dude, my first trip to Yosemite changed my life & continues to influence it to this very day.
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