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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Locker, FYI, I think you got too much of that 'wrinkle cream' in your eyes as they appear glued shut.
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lisae
climber
Santa, Cruz, CA
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SC Seagoat, really, really do your home work before deciding on a procedure. Hip re-surfacing have only been approved by the FDA in this country since 2006. Not that FDA approvals mean that much, but still most American ortho's haven't done many of them. And while preserving bone stock and more range of motion is very attractive, I believe the fact that the are metal on metal mean there is more chance for a build up of metal ions in the blood. I've read that the best candidates for resurfacing are younger men or women with good bone stock.
With my first hip replacement , I wasn't a candidate for re-surfacing because I had AVN. The ball of my femur was pretty crumbly. By my second hip replacement, I didn't care any more. I just wanted to be able to walk without it hurting.
Good luck!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Basically, since the BHR has been taken off the market for smaller sizes, if a normal sized woman wants a HR done in the US, I believe Dr. Thomas Gross (uses the Biomet "off label") is one of the few experienced surgeons left. Otherwise it's off to Europe (e.g. Dr. Koen De Smet) for the Conserve Plus (which has been taken off the US market but is still available in Europe). There are very few surgeons in the world doing HR for (normal sized) women at this time but the few remaining experienced ones have done many thousands of surgeries with very good results. Medical torurism is the only option for a woman to go the HR route, so if that's what you want, try to pick the best surgeon in the world without worrying about where you have to go.
Big companies worried about law suits mixed with the poor results of many inexperienced surgeons jumping on the HR bandwagon has made the possibilty of HR for women very limited.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Hip replacement/resurfacing seems common with climbers who have put the petal to the metal.....and usually when still fairly young. Rolo Garibotti, John Sherman, Greg Childs, Kitty Calhoun, Kim Ciszmazia, Greg Crouch and Ralph Tingey come to mind. The results have all been positive although recovery times have varied considerably.
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Grace--i had a hip at 45 and another at 53..I was doing decent until i decided to add a knee last year..and then the heart thing...
But out and about now, scrambling at 13,500' so that's getting there
cheers
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Pretty damn inspiring Grace. Thanks for posting this up!
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Bad Climber
climber
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Keep shredding, Grace. Hope to see you out on the crags some day.
Months after pulling a rib, I'm finally working out again and primed to get back on the stone. Kaint. Phreakin'. Wait!
BAd
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lisae
climber
Santa, Cruz, CA
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Grace, if Chris Sharma showed up at the PE (which he used to do) he would offer to belay you. He offered to belay me once and I was so flustered I didn't accept. That was about the time I quit thinking of him as a kid. He is the same age as my son; they tied for first place in their first climbing competition. My son doesn't climb anymore, doesn't care, so that is my claim to fame.
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2015 - 02:42pm PT
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Well, fine SuperTaco friends, I've been having a ball climbing outside in Tuolumne. Have also been at the gym and lisae provided a wealth of recommendations as to how to approach an indoor route in the manner the route setter intended. Once again, I need to adjust my sequences as much as I can considering the limitations of my hips. Though lisa kindly suggested I stick to 5.8, I am far more comfortable on 5.9s in the gym.
For those of you with bad hips and an accompanying sense of impending doom that you might not ever climb again, I'd like to share with you that I'm doing fine, 8 months post-surgery. I romped up a 5.8 crack with bonus 5.9 face section on a DAFF dome route last weekend. Excellent Yosemite Mountaineering Guide Mark Grundon at the belay as I ascend to the perfect blue sky.
Your support, cheering, recommendations have meant the world to me. Thank you, friends.
xo GraceD
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
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Ahhhh, thank you sycorax! The Yosemite school is perfect for someone returning to the endeavor and as is worth the price for a day of crack climbing, equipment (I should, though, really buy a helmet) and the company of jolly companions.
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lisae
climber
Santa, Cruz, CA
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Aug 18, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
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Um. Grace, I didn't exactly say you should stick to 5.8 in the gym. What I said is find a level at which you can stay on route and concentrate on footwork for a while. Footwork will get you up a route when your strength fails you, in my experience. Anyway this is the article I mentioned about footwork:
http://www.climbing.com/skill/training-7-simple-drills-to-improve-footwork-and-technique/
I did my own variation of the first two drills after my each of my hip replacements and they helped me a lot.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 18, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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Send that rig
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