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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 31, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Hello! I am a 60 year old grandma who has returned to climbing after a 42 year hiatus (former 70s Curry Company worker turned Camp 4 Dirtbag). With my two year old double hip replacements, I am able to hike considerable distances, peak bag, and climb both inside and out without pain. Yay for modern medicine! So far, I am doing well on 5.9s and working towards 5.10s. However, I am limited in pulling off extreme foot reaches and high leg lifting. Because I need to use footholds that are closer and lower my feet go off the 5.10 line. In going off-route this way, does this indicate I did not climb a 5.10, particularly in the gym? Thank you in advance for your kind commentary and suggestions.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
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does this indicate I did not climb a 5.10, particularly in the gym?
Yes.
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
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Thanks for your brevity! I figured as much.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 31, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
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Your efforts are admirable. However, I wonder if you really enjoy pressing toward 5.10s or are somehow driven to do so. At your age you might consider doing what provides pure enjoyment, and if that means pushing into 5.10s go for it. Forget the details . . . those are for youth.
;>)
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
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To expand a bit, going "off route" in that way only matters in a gym. Outdoors anything within reach is fair game and is included in the grade.
Also, Pacific Edge?
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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The numbers game has been imprinted on my brain since I was a punk 18 year old. It's still compelling to me.
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
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Right-o, Ben Lomond local, Pacific Edge indeed. The only 5.10 I can pull off is on the slab. Stands to reason, I loved the routes on the Apron.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
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There's a climber about your age with double hip replacements who climbs at Pacific Edge. She seems to be ok with 5.8s and the occasional 5.9, but has techniques for getting around some high steps. Shoot me a personal message if you want her contact info.
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
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Locker and Jogill, thank you for the straight talk. Tough love on the Taco! I cherish my youthful climbing days and I will find contentment with what I can do now, which ain't at all bad.
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 01:27pm PT
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Stephen, thanks for this heads-up! Or, hips-up. Sent you a PM.
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
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Locker, you are spot on. But, boy-howdy, would this Granny love to send a crazy-ass 5.13 just to freak the community. A crone can dream.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
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You and my wife sound like kindred spirits. She likes that delicate tippy-toe junk, too.*
How long have you been back at PE? We'll probably run into each other, if we haven't already. I'm the jackass who keeps bringing his baby with him.
*Disdain to protect my man-card: I don't think I can admit I like slab and keep it, at least around here.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 01:58pm PT
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granny-ellanor?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 31, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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view her pasts posts and all should be clear.
good for you!
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
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Oh, goodness, no. I am not the infamous "Elena"!
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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looks easy from here - Our community baby! I watched Rosie hold your little one for a long time and almost said, "MY TURN!" I recall you and your wife, but, as you now know from new parenthood, it's no longer about the adults. The Baby is the star. Great to see you! Here I am with Fabulous Instructor Melinda Reece on the occasion of completing her Women's Climbing Course, Class of April 2015
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GraceD
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
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Cosmiccragsman, sir, I am sorry for your injuries but impressed you're having big fun! Point well taken about having fun, which I am, majorly so.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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With my two year old double hip replacements, I am able to hike considerable distances, peak bag, and climb both inside and out without pain.
two years seems relatively short given the major surgery... and the fact that you haven't climbed in 42 years would also seem to indicate that you're doing well to be at 5.9 and working on 5.10.
One thing I've learned with age (I'm 61) is that doing a little bit a lot of times actually works in the long run. The trick is to like something enough to keep at it... we all find adaptations for our strengths and weaknesses, and even train a bit to get better.
We'd be happy to hear reports of your climbing trips and your experience adapting... for the most part, we love climbing and everything it entails.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jul 31, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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(former 70s Curry Company worker turned Camp 4 Dirtbag)
I thought it worked the other way around.
Anyway, good going, sounds like you're doing great!
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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Yep, he's definitely the rockstar and I'm definitely the roadie. Next time you see us, come over and say hi. We're generous with our baby (as Rosie and Devon and Scott and Sage and Marshall and whoever else can attest).
Back on the subject of you, on the slab have you tried avoiding off-route holds and just smeared straight on the wall? It's certainly grippier than some glacial polish I've been on, and doing that keeps the grades honest. And how do you do with stemming? I could see pressure like that being rough on your hips, but if it's okay Oceanview Corner (to the climber's left of The Chimney) often has routes where highsteps can be avoided by mentally tricky but physically secure acrobatics, again often taking advantage of standing or pressing directly on the wall.
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