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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2015 - 10:32am PT
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well, the title says it all.
im moving east (portland maine) and i'm hoping to hear your stories and recommendations about NH climbing (throw in a bit of acadia and katahdin too)
Thanks!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 30, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Paging Brandon.
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Five15Factor2
climber
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Jul 30, 2015 - 10:40am PT
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There is a lot of bugs and sometimes it stops raining.
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ECF
Big Wall climber
Colona, CO
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Jul 30, 2015 - 10:44am PT
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Take I-95 south to Logan Airport, board a plane, go somewhere with climbing.
Poor bastard.
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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oh yeah,
include ice climbing tales...its not just rock...and I will be there from sept 1st- april 1st.
also looking for partners...
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jul 30, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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Tons of climbing - rock and ice - in Crawford Notch, North Conway area, Franconia Notch (ie: Cannon and all the other smaller crags), Mt Washington, ice at Lake Willoughby, Smuggler's Notch. Then you've got the Adirondacks not too far away with lots of stuff there too.
Check out neice.com and neclimbs.com.
And yeah, there's f*#kloads of bugs and it sure does rain a lot.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 30, 2015 - 11:40am PT
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As a resident of N.H., I can tell you that there is plenty of stuff, in all grades to keep you in shape. Many top-notch climbers train here, and use their skills for the greater ranges.
The bugs are really only here from about May1st to July, then they calm down.
If you like longer trad. climbs, Cannon has a few 10-12 pitch routes.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 30, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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Man, there's tons of stuff to do around here, bugs won't be an issue when you're around. I don't climb ice, but hit me up when you get settled in and I can show you some places that I like. Skiings fun too, just...different.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jul 30, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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the grades are harder..
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jul 30, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
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The ice climbing there is awesome; however, remember that it can get far colder than here in California. It is not uncommon for the temperature to be 10-20 deg. F in Crawford Notch. Add in the wind and you can get some frost bite (happened to me). There are a lot of long moderate ice climbs in Crawford Notch that you can lead or solo. I never did any rock climbing in NH even though I lived in New Jersey for awhile. Your time period misses the horrible black fly season. There are some great rock climbs in the nearby 'Dacks (upstate NY) as well as great ice climbing. For ice climbing, also do not forget Smuggler's Notch in VT, which has great climbs. You will also want to check out the Gunks in the fall for rock climbing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 30, 2015 - 05:28pm PT
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Bring some warm clothing. 20 degrees there feels like single digits out west. Cloudy sky's, wind and humidity are the culprit. The rock climbing is great but, as others have said, be prepared for stiff grades.
Steve A on ST has climbed there since Christ was a corporal......PM him for super beta.
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ELM !
climber
Near Boston
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Jul 30, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
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You can climb in New England for the rest of your life and still find something new to climb each time.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 30, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Draw a line from El Paso to Calgary.
Everybody knows that climbing is on the west side of that line, and no-climbing is on the east side.
Buy bowling shoes and develop an appreciation of fluorescent lighting.
Edit to add: Google "Torngat Mountains".
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rbob
climber
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Jul 30, 2015 - 08:59pm PT
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Tons of great climbing on the East Coast. Lake Willoughby for ice climbing is one of the premier ice venues in the lower 48 in my opinion. Cannon Cliff is no slouch either (summer or winter).
Cathedral is a great crag (summer rock / winter ice).
A bit further afield are the Adirondacks (NY) which feature some world class stone. Spiders Web, Moss Cliff, and Poko Moonshine are crack climbers heaven. The ice climbing is also very good there.
Honestly, the ice climbing on the east coast is awesome (and most unique relative to CA). The density and variety and gentle approaches are very unique relative to western ice.
The trad ethic is very heavy on the east coast (ice+rock). Combine this with super accessible crags, and I think that is why it continues to produce some of the best alpinists in the world.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Jul 31, 2015 - 07:15am PT
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The climbing is good, nice granite comparable to the sierra. In terms of quality, it's as good as out west, but not anywhere near the scale. There is plenty to do, though. Give me a shout, happy to show you around.
-Matt
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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Well, on the drive back west now...see you later White Mountains!
I gotta say, there are some serious crushers out there! people getting after it quietly, i like that.
Got to climb lots of classics, had an awesome winter of ice climbing, and many great days rock climbing out at Cathedral Ledge. Also climbed a bit at Whitehorse, Pawtuckaway, and Acadia NP. I thought it was all very quality and well worth my time.
My favorite pitch out there is hard pinpoint...
but,
They Died Laughing
Last pitch of Recompense
Last pitch of Diedre
Dracula
and Pegasus Rock Finish all come to mind.
I had a lot of goals for ice out there...learned pretty quickly that the grades out there aren't something to take lightly...
GOOD TIMES!
Gonna have to come back for repentance...
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 27, 2016 - 03:16am PT
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"Last pitch of Recompense"
Just did that last week, and haven't been on it for a while. Glad you got a chance to sample the Northeast. I'll be heading your way pretty soon.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 27, 2016 - 03:32am PT
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Yup, absolutely nothing to see here, sorry no worthwhile climbing in the northeast,
no need to visit. . .🙈🙉🙊🐵
Sorry if that was a wasted season .
I gotta say, there are some serious crushers out there! people getting after it quietly, i like that.
Please, come 🔙🔜
😎😼 💪🔕🔇
It is in Kentucky the Place is always warm,
Also the quality of the stone is amazing.
The rock is literally. Bullet hard, there are iron intrusions
that form tubes, extruding sharp edged
Collapsed bubble features that swirl , or drip,
that one climbs like rungs on a slightly
over-hanging sandstone cobble matrix. jungle-gym
The south awaits!
So in case that misses, a facetious sarcastic comment
The best kept secret is that it is no secret
that there is still some of the very best rock/ backcountry adventure
climbing available in the bumps we call mountains in the north east.
New Hampshire is the grand daddy. The progress is wide spread.
Vermont & the Adirondacks have come of age.
Get a look at the New Adirondack guide books a three volume set.
As to the silence from the dominate climbers - should it be any other way?
The very nature of the swamp of normal, of average skilled,
climbers that now group together
makes the formation of strong partnerships happen often.
The whole community is Large but can feel small united by the seasons.
It would be hard to find any more motivated climbers than NH rock climbers,
when mud season ends it is off to the projects.
The Elite group, now happens in a gym,then moves without fan fair
to a lost ridge or cliff, yielding new routes put up safely.
Modern climbing in the forgotten north east, the way we like it.
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