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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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it is imperative! This new book by Kent Pease is the best i have ever read for developing good crack climbing technique.
Great color photos will make you want to thumb thru it....comprehensive illustrations and text illuminating technique will make you want to read it from cover to cover.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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why does every crack climbing article, guide, show those finger thumb stacks for off size cracks that in my experience don't really work.. ?
edit-- not a ding on the book, which i haven't seen but looks excellent. i could just never get those to work for me, not for lack of trying.
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:32am PT
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Q - where can it be purchased?
At my age (and weight) technique is everything.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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Oh man I need that book.....and if it's vouched for by a crack climbing expert (Donini) I really really want it...
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:37am PT
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Actually, that "thumb-stack" works well for me. I can hang off of one of those fairly confidently (as long as I am not in overhanging/ not there yet). One of the semi regulars on this site taught me this, but it pretty much goes as in the drawings. I have noticed that this technique is harder for those with sausage shaped thumbs. Helps a lot if your thumb and finger tips are sort of tapered.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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Donini said, quote: " This new book by Kent Pease is the best i have ever read for developing good crack climbing technique."
Wow! Given your crackmaster status, very high praise indeed Jim. Of that page shown, I have 1 of those four stacks in my arsenal.
Am buying the book now of course:-)
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ECF
Big Wall climber
Colona, CO
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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I'll just read the cliff notes...
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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i agree page turning is becoming a lost art, what with scroll wheels, screen swiping and all. don't even get me started on counting greenbacks, whoa nelly!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 30, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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Can’t wait till my “Gym Climber’s Guide to Crack Climbing - The Layback” article is published! Should solve all these silly problems like finger stacks. :)
Kidding...
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Sabirila
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Jul 30, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
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The double gaston technique suits every size of crack, from fingers to offwidth. It is the way to go....
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Jul 30, 2015 - 03:38pm PT
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@ECF ... nice ... rimshot
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Lone Quail
Trad climber
Littleton, Colorado
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Jul 30, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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Thanks for the positive reviews and kind words. The book can be purchased from Fixed Pin at: http://www.fixedpin.com/collections/climbing/products/the-crack-climbers-technique-manual.
In writing the book I felt that it was important to use a technical approach, and to describe not only the jams, but more importantly how jams work. I’m especially happy that reviewers and commenters seem to agree.
I worked on the book for a l-o-n-g time and received input from many of my climbing friends. Also, Samantha did a great job with the illustrations, and Jason and Ben at Fixed Pin were great to work with and were instrumental in pulling it together and getting it published.
Kent
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jul 30, 2015 - 06:18pm PT
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Jim speaks, I listen.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Jul 30, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
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Finger stacks for you...slightly tight hands for me - thumbs down, but still good (enough) hands MWAHAHAHA!
Reading this book would probably help me a lot, but when it comes down to book or a Pastry, the Pastry is what's going to go into the bag.
Maybe THAT's why these mythical thumbstacks are too painful for me! hee hee.
Ah well, I'll get there eventually, promise!
Cheers
LS
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
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Got my copy, and, although I haven't climbed since, I'm sure I'm better! Seriously, this will help me. Really good hints, diagrams, the works. I've never been especially good at cracks, and this should help.
BAd
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Jul 31, 2015 - 06:24am PT
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Get crankin'....
Got a copy of the book. It's amazingly good and has some really sweet looking techniques I've never used or seen before. Can't wait to check the new stuff out.
Ring locks can be really good once you take some time to practice and get a feel for them. I've caused bleeding under my thumbnail from getting overzealous (freaked?) and cranking down too hard.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 31, 2015 - 06:39am PT
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Haven't seen the book yet but wish I had something like that info. exactly 50 years ago, when I started. It must be good if Rgold, and Donini give it the thumbs up.
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larryhorton
Trad climber
NM
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...but when it comes down to book or a Pastry, the Pastry is what's going to go into the bag.
Maybe THAT's why these mythical thumbstacks are too painful for me! hee hee.
'Hee Hee', indeed, ladyscarlett. That's actually quite insightful!
Take it from a doctor of Oriental medicine whose practice includes a lot of trigger point injections and prolotherapy—sugar and refined grains are murder on both muscles and connective tissue. Not to mention a gazillion other things.
Might be better off packing a steak, or slab of sockeye... Then you'd probably have the energy to take Kent's book, too!
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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