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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2015 - 04:38am PT
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Does anyone know who made the first five ascents of El Cap's 'Tempest'
Thanks
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jul 30, 2015 - 08:34am PT
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2nd ascent was Gerberding, Harpole
3rd..valario folco, Brutus, Tom Mcmillon
4th Eriksson, Robertson
5th Eubanks,Kable
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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wally barker solo?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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I'm pretty sure Nick Martinez soloed the route around 2003.
Fwiw- Dave Turner may have climbed it too.
Beautiful climb, great location.
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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Jul 30, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Alex Lowe and partner did most of it in 1994; he said they finished on PO, so presumably after pitch #16 (judging from the topo, rather than personal knowledge). Don't recall the name of the other guy. They probably topped out on October 21st.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
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I've read that Lovelace climbed Tempest in a number of different posts. Can anybody confirm this?
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jul 30, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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I'm virtually positive Rick never did Tempest. The route was climbed in 1993 and Rick an I were climbing together then, leading up to our 1995 Baffin Island trip. And yes Nick did climb the route...
BTW - adding Nick and Dave in to the mix makes sense as Jeremy and I figured we did around the 9th ascent last year....
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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FWIW- Dave T soloed it in October 2004. He was dropped a rope by YOSAR on the last pitch which was iced up 5.8 slabs. Nic and I were on the Motorolas with him down in the meadow about it...and could hear chunks of ice hitting his ledge. He didn't want a rescue, but they didn't really give him the choice.
Sadly, the next morning as YOSAR ops kicked in we awoke to find out the Japanese couple perished in the night trying to climb off the Nose.
:(
Pretty sure Nic soloed the route the next season while Dave soloed up Atlantis next to him.
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jul 31, 2015 - 07:23am PT
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yep....looks like I forgot about a couple of ascents but dave turner nope
not sure about Lovelace tho ...dont think so.
Surgeon General is about 3 times harder than the tempest
looks like me and kate don't make it into the first 5 catagory
f*#k
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 04:00pm PT
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What gives Lambone? Did Klaus delete?
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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Sounds like Lovelace's solo 2nd ascent (Surgeon General), was a considerable achievement.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 31, 2015 - 05:52pm PT
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Yes he did. Trash talking....
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jul 31, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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Wait. It's just aid "climbing," which is not even real climbing.
Real climbers don't mar the rock; they wait with perfect self-control until the route can go free. If necessary, they wait forever rather than to aid climb the route down to their level. LOL
A free climb wouldn't have needed 178 holes in 16 new pitches.
It's not even real climbing. Gym climbing, or a good sport route; now that's real climbing!
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The Alpine
climber
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Jul 31, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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Bart Bledsoe soloed it in the early 2000's i do believe.
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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