Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
Me and Bachar used lockers on a lot of routes... Dang it, are we going to have to start calling locker draws "Werner Draws" or "Bachar Draws" instead of "Granny Draws"?
|
|
pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
|
|
[Click to View YouTube Video]
This is to demonstrate how one could easily reproduce the issue using virtually any quickdraw on lot of "old" trad routes. All you need is a fixed piton - clip your quickdraw wrong direction (top to bottom instead of bottom to top), and it's piton end binner will be fixed, then rope friction lift the dogbone with the rope end binner up, pull, failure.
|
|
Bonow
Trad climber
Figueira, PR, Brasil
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2016 - 10:29am PT
|
Another problem of Petzl Ange, in the cross loaded, the small radius of the wire, damaged the rope, small fall(7 feet), sling without string.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2016 - 12:01pm PT
|
Bent Gate= Bent Dude!
One frowny face coming up... orrr down.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
|
What was the fall factor? If it was a high ff and the gate was crossloaded, and the biner didn't break, then it did fine.
|
|
5.9furevah
Trad climber
Brooklyn
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2016 - 08:20am PT
|
So ... this discussion seemed to die off pretty fast for something so deadly serious. Does everyone now agree this isn't a problem, or has everyone using Ange biners died?
|
|
overwatch
climber
Arizona
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2016 - 09:09am PT
|
Probably because most of us are confident in our decision not to use those weird looking things. Understood that it can happen to any configuration so be prepared to take steps to mitigate the consequences as has been discussed.
To overcome your avatar move to where there is climbing and use your feet.
vvvvvvv yeah, trembling
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2016 - 09:11am PT
|
Or we're just to terrified to even think about it. There are so many ways to get the chop once you find the internet that folks have about given up climbing and are taking up Crocheting and Knitting. That's my guess.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2016 - 10:56am PT
|
Those weird looking things... Are great quick draws. You can break any Biner you cross load.
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
|
Problem #1-
A single post wire gate has zero resistance to side loading when not locked into the nose-key and appears to collapse so quickly in a fall situation that a sling or bone has no chance to slide back onto the spine where it belongs.
A double wire gate or solid gate, having two laterally opposed attachment points, has some lateral resistance, which would give the sling or bone a much better chance of sliding onto the frame and allowing the gate to lock into the nose.
Which leads to problem #2-
It appears as if the manufacturer has added a plastic cone at the base of the single post to help a bone or sling slide back onto the spine- a small lip still exists.
A double wire or solid gate is the same width as the frame allowing a sling or bone to easily slide back onto the spine with no obstruction.
If weight is that critical, take 4 Colon Cleanse the night before you climb.
|
|
overwatch
climber
Arizona
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
|
Understood that it can happen to any configuration
You can break any Biner you cross load.
So we agree
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!