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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 12, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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I was poking around on Mountain Project and came upon this comment from Todd Townsend, 20 May 2015 in the discussion of the Fashion Slab, Pine Creek: "No info on MP yet", look for it in Tai's guidebook, hopefully due out sometime this summer".
Is there a new Pine Creek Canyon guide in the works? Mp shows a huge number of new routes not in the Croft / Lewis guide.
Today Lori and I did Merman, 5.7+ both pitches, excellent, very accurate MP route description.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 12, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
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There is a guide in the works, but I believe Tai recently said that things are going slow. Can't speak for him, or his target date, but it sounds like it may not be just around the corner.
MP has only a subset of the new development. A sizable share of it hasn't even made it there, just depends on who the developer(s) were/are. The old Lewis/Croft guide is pretty sparse at this point.
Until the new guide shows up, I would suggest going by Wilsons and checking at the climbing counter. Tai was maintaining a loose leaf notebook that was the most current and complete information. And of course, check MP since at least some of the developers are posting route information.
Plenty of busy bodies actively developing in PC.
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ruppell
climber
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Jul 12, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
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At the rate development is going on right now it's got to be a huge effort to keep up with it for a guide. Routes are going up at an astonishing pace. Every time a go there is something new. The quality of most of them is amazing as well. It's actually pretty nice to see all these guys putting in the work so lazy bastards like myself can just climb. So thank you to all you guys doing the grunt work.
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Old5Ten
Trad climber
Berkeley and Sunny Slopes, CA
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Jul 12, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
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Not sure what info you're looking for, but there is a MP site for Fashion Slab that has most of the routes (I actually put it up ;-). Would recommend Blue Steel, it's a lot of fun. Crack of Noon Buttress, down the hill, also has some fun routes.
Tai is putting out a guide, but it is a huge project. The route development is really astonishing. I worked on a PSOM topo for SP last year and there've been at least 8 routes that have gone up since then and more current projects on the way (and that was considered a fairly well established area at the time).
I think most FAs are posting their new routes on MP, mainly because they want them to get climbed ;-). There's also a bit of hedging going on in terms of info, but you just have to go with the way things are.
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Jul 12, 2015 - 10:43pm PT
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Sorry, but I doubt the "locals" will forthcoming on any info... went there in May... douchwads. Rude and not welcoming in the least. We climbed Rites of Spring came down after two pitches twas a bit cold. Saw a party on a nice looking, four pitch mixed route across the canyon. Walked to the base and got "vibed" As in "none of these climbs are in the book". So we located some nice looking new climbs to the right of the climbs the "locals" were "climbing" Nice but raw liked them. After giving the "developers some space we came back the the first pitch of "The Bavarian Tower". The people were so rude my partner wouldn't even follow the first and we left. Milt
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 13, 2015 - 07:58am PT
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Ahh Jeff, you're so consistent. The girl doesn't like you anymore, get over it.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 13, 2015 - 10:04am PT
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It's all good, I dislike climbing with most but not all gals. Not that fun.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Jul 13, 2015 - 11:44am PT
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Sasha,
Not sure who you encountered while there, but most of the attitudes I've dealt with were from out-of-towners (aka Los angelino-f*#ktards). There are a few under friendly climbers in the Bishop area, well actually most of them are from Mammoth, but for the most part the "locals" are some of the friendliest people I've encountered.
Sorry you had this encounter, I highly suggest you go and talk to Tai at Eastside Sports, he is probably one of THE friendliest guys on the planet.
I know I appreciate how friendly the locals in the Tahoe area are (after they find out I'm not from the Bay).
As to the Pine Creek Guide book, I think Tai enjoys putting up new routes more than dealing with all the intricacies of putting a guidebook out, especially one that will instantly be outdated!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 13, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Tai and the other locals I have met have always been friendly and helpful. Sorry you had a bad experience.
Phyl
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jul 13, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
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+++++! for Tai. Awesome guy. Check out his topos at Wilson's.
BAd
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Todd Townsend
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 13, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Check out the Facebook page for updates:
https://www.facebook.com/PineCreekClimbingGuide?fref=ts
Tai is the guy, and he's enlisted a few other dedicated folks to help, so things are progressing. Last time I talked to him, he had cataloged over 500 routes up there, so it is a big project. As previously stated, there is still a ton of development happening, and I've been trying to put info on MP for the routes that I've been involved with. My best guess is that the book might be done for next spring/summer, but you should check with him.
Sorry to anyone who's had a bad experience. I think that the local Bishop scene has been the friendliest and least ego-driven of any that I've experienced. Feel free to PM me, or drop by Eastside Sports when I'm working, for beta or to chat.
Thanks.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jul 13, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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I have to agree with the majority here. I'm from way out of town but I've never had anything but great vibes from all the locals I've encountered around the entire eastside climbing scene. Thanks to all of you for putting in such fun routes. And good luck to Tai (who is the nicest person on the planet) in the thankless task of a new guidebook.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Apr 24, 2016 - 06:37pm PT
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I can hardly wait till the new Pine Creek Canyon guide comes out. Just a teaser from Tai's facebook page: Still making progress, but slow
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 25, 2016 - 12:04am PT
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sounds like your partner was making excuses as the worm turned
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 23, 2016 - 09:29am PT
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Got out to OJ Buttress and was guided by MisterE, super fun routes on a very well thought out and cared for crag...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Bump. What's the status?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Curious why there's a chain draw on that line?
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ruppell
climber
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Cause the bolts in the wrong spot to make the clip. So a couple links of chains and it's an easier clip. Routes actually pretty good if you let the fixed draw slide. lol
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Jul 31, 2018 - 12:32pm PT
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Anyone have an update when the guide book will be out?
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Roadie
Trad climber
moab UT
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It will be quite some time before anyone sees a book.
As to the vibe here in Bish. Yes, there is a ton of arrogance here. While Ty is outwardly a mostly nice guy the people he surrounds himself with can exhibit an astounding degree of hypocrisy when it comes to anyone putting up routes outside of their little club. Very high school, very sad....
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