Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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Upper Royal's Arch at Tahquitz has been on my list since I stumbled into it last year. To me, it just looks soooo cool position wise, and I am sure it will mentally get my titties into a twist. But personal growth is so important; don't you agree?
So what would be the best link up to get to the upper arch pitch?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Daves deviation to Gallwas Gallop. then go up to the ant tree cut left then step down onto the exposed upper royal arch. Done Deal.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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'Triple Direct'
Dave's Deviation > Piton Pooper > Upper Royal's Arch
One of the best options at Tahquitz!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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^^^^^^^^^^
What he said.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 10:57am PT
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Dave's to Piton pOOper to the Arch is the way I have heard was "classic". Was looking for verification of that, as well as other points of view. So Thank You all for the responses! Still working on my stamina so I'm back on Whodunit this weekend, but I am aiming for getting this done before the end of the year.
Daves deviation to Gallwas Gallop. then go up to the ant tree cut left then step down onto the exposed upper royal arch.
This one is interesting. Thanks for this one Jeff. Writing this one down in the guidebook for next year.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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There's an interesting few moves from the Dave's anchors to Pine Tree Ledge. Kinda secret, but memorable. Go get it!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 11:09am PT
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^^^^^ Cool!!! I'll have to get my head on straight and be in the moment.
Any idea what/where that Ant Tree JC was talking about is? I mean, every friggen tree at the rock (as well as the starting crack to the Chauvanist) is covered in ants, so it's less than obvious to me.... I have to say the Gallwas Gallop over to Upper Royal's Arch looks adventuresome. Definitely doing the Piton Pooper version first. That will give me a closer look at what you need to traverse across to get to the Arch of interest. Lots of overlaps in that area?
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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What everyone else said, super fun link up
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nope, haven't done that one myself. Done the 'classic' linkup a few times, and it is truly one of the best days of climbing you can have on Tahquitz (or many other places!). Be sure to post up some pics!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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Apogee. I appreciate all the info you have shared with me over the last year on this place. Hopefully, one of these days I'll buy you a couple beers.
edit; Or just lunch or dinner. I've plenty of AA friends, including my oldest best friend from my teenage years. Not a whole lot of us left from that time in San Clemete.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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If you're looking for an easier link up, the Jam Crack (5.7) is really fun.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Man, Fat Dad, I found that awkward 5.7 Jam Crack to be about as strenuous as Dave's straight-in 5.9!
Either way, very worthwhile.
Edit: Sketchy's beta below is probably the bestest.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Actually you probably should do it this way:
Pitch 1: Dave's Deviation.
Pitch 2/3 (can be combined): Jam Crack Route. The 2 & 3 pitches of Dave's have sketchy pro and can be serious.
Pitch 3(4): Piton Pooper to the 2nd ramp/shrub/tree area. Either belay here or head up and a bit left to a less comfortable belay higher.
Pitch 4(5): Upper Royal's Arch. Either climb the arch directly the entire way, or make a few face moves left and then back right and up to avoid the thin section of the arch. Surmount the roof higher up to finish.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Pitch 2/3 (can be combined): Jam Crack Route. The 2 & 3 pitches of Dave's have sketchy pro and can be serious.
Yep,
The second pitch of Dave's starts down and left of the anchors and the crux moves are on less than perfect rock (uncharacteristically crumbly for Tahquitz) with poor gear placements above an ankle breaker for sure ledge. Did it that way only once with Woody. Wouldn't do it again.
I think a lot of people continue straight up from the anchors on Dave's and think they are still on that route. For some reason lost to history Tahquitz seems to have several routes where the lines swap crack systems and the best or most logical way to do them combine two different climbs.
Long Climb/Wong Climb etc.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2015 - 05:49am PT
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The first pitch of Dave's is clear enough, but then it goes left and the Jam Crack goes to the right (but mostly up) ala Wong/Long. Seems that way in the guidebook.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2015 - 09:15am PT
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Is this the second pitch of Dave's? (Or Jam Crack or both for that matter) Looks interesting, with that short runout between cracks?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 11, 2015 - 11:44pm PT
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hey there say, ... some folks might want to chip in, to this one, too, this eve... or, perhaps on the weekend...
:)
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