Half Dome Rockfall?


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Sport climber
Dresden, Germany
Oct 13, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
Hi Cosmiccragsman,

many thanks for fixing the images. What did I do
wrong in submitting them?

Sport climber
Dresden, Germany
Oct 13, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
Hello Jose Gutierrez,

I did not bring any specific aid gear since I expected from photos of the rockfall on the internet that the TT would work just as in the past (due to the perspective, the belay for Pitch 13 looked lower than the TT point although it actually is higher).

In the meantime, I have news of a successful ascent by some Tzech guys. On my recommendation, they brought pitons, ball nuts and other small gear and could pass the ~6m section. They left one piton in place. If I understood them correctly, it is now possibly to climb/aid this section by using this piton, a very small cam/ballnut - and the vegetation below the second piton/bolt.

They also said that a pendulum is not possible from the second bolt since the arete is in the way. However, by doing a classical TT traverse, they could just reach the crack below the belay station and insert a cam on which to pull over. Moreover, above this second bolt, the dihedral looks less blank and a higher cam can probably be placed if need arises. Finally, they reported that the rest of the route (Pitches 13+) was perfectly normal.

In summary, it seems that Half Dome RNWF is possible again using free-climbing gear if this includes very small cams or ball nuts - and the piton does not get ripped. Nevertheless, the final word (three more bolts?) is probably not yet spoken.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 13, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
When Alex Saunders and Matt did the whole climb in early September,
they brought some better aid gear to reach the 25' higher bolt anchor on Arcturus:
 green C3
 small cam hook
 small Pecker (aka beak)
They also used a rope toss to catch the lower part of the p13 crack to pull across the traverse.

Trad climber
Jun 21, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
So the regular route has been done since the new changes. Are people doing this often? Is a lasso maneuver required still?

Has anyone been up the death slabs lately?

Messages 161 - 164 of total 164 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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