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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Quartzite is a great testing ground for this. I have two routes in good quartzite that have critical grey placements (one for the TCU and the other for the 4 cam) Haven't fallen on either but believe they are complete bomber.
Edit-the 4 cam placement is the first protection and mandatory and takes two cams one above the other, either sliding X together or two separate placements. When you shove them in you know they're gonna hold.
Arne
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 08:36am PT
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Gear trickery is the best! F*#k them bolts!!!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 08:36am PT
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From where I come from we call it "the redneck arts."
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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As close as I can come to comparable falls on small gear is this;
multiple 40' footers on blue Aliens, a 15'+ fall on a 0 Cracken-up, several good 15'+ falls on the smallest blue Lowe-ball, a couple short falls on sky hooks. All held, thankfully. Looking back, I'm not sure risking life and limb was worth taking the chance with some of that gear, but you put in what you have and hope for the best.
Eric Gabel
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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^^Oh, look: Jeff Constine is doing what he does best - bagging on people for no reason but his own twisted, demeaning sense of humor.
Edited for correction: My wife watched a 200-pound guy take a lead fall on a Wild Country Z2...and it caught him.
I have fallen repeatedly on a #2 Loweball working the crux of "Japanese Gardens" first pitch...5.11d. It held.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mr. E is for real and I wouldn't necessarily equate climbing an El Cap route with climbing legitimacy .
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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My wife watched a 200-pound guy take a lead fall on a Wild Country Z2...and it caught him.
That's reassuring indeed. That cam is rated at 4 kN, roughly the equivalent of a #1 RP. Shit's bomber!! Lol. Nice work on the ball-nut test Mister E. Those little things are strong as hell. Even the #1 is a 8kN! The old ones by Lowe had super conservative ratings. Camp has changed nothing important to the design but the strength ratings have gone way up.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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two things are at play with the small cams. one is axle diameter, which to accommodate the small size is less than what can withstand significant loads even with the strongest alloy steel out there. i remember using 4340.
more to the point is the narrow range of expansion. once a cam tips out the holding power is gone. so, if it's placed anywhere that could possibly flex under load, i.e. behind a flake, it only takes the tiniest expansion for it to fail.
carry on--
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