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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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We've been getting tons of lighting here in Seki the last few days with sporadic rain. Going out to the Needles for the first time is humbling to say the least! I've heard of climbers, planning on climbing big routes who had never been there, and when they got there they changed their plans due to the steepness and seriousness of the lines. But, its way worth the look and to climb there is just awesome! The yellow lichen is electric and the wilderness feel is like not other climbing area around. Thats why its world class climbing! I always look forward to your TRs and hope you go to the Needles so we can see what you see! Enjoy and watch the weather......
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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De champs- the road is good right now. Micronut- you could summit both Witch via the route Clint mentioned and Charlatan the same day.
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Scott, It is going to be warm beginning of July. Good and free camping on top of Dome Rock. I know Bob H and he will be solid on the road conditions to the Needles
Dome Rocks Tree Route is a classic. There is a bolted face to the left of the Tree Route which you might be able to rig from one of the Tree Route stations...about 5.8+ There is an old Sierra Club route on the farthest left side of Dome Rock which may get shade in the morning. It's next right of the Last Dihedral and not on MP or in a book. I was there 4 years ago to retro bolt for ASCA and did not get to it so the hardware may be old.
Do the Tree Route in the afternoon. Magic Dragon is long and good. It is in the sun all afternoon. Honestly I can't think of any routes easier than 5.8 (and they mean it) at the Needles.
Regards, Tom
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jul 2, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
If you go to Dome Rock,
You have to go do either,
Wind Lord, or Windjammer.
Bring LOTS of 9/16ths nylon webbing
for slinging LOTS of knobs and chickenheads.
In fact. that's what 9 tenths of the pro is on the 3 pitches
They are CLASSICS!!!!
They also aren't 5.6 or anywhere near it.
Why not just tell him to do Between Nothingness and a Eternity?
Much better route than Windjammer.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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FWIW Stars and Stripes mentioned above is 5.9. The second pitch is fantastic but kinda wild if yer lookin' for 5.7. If you do end up on top of the Sorcerer be careful on the rap. A single 60M cord will deposit you on some very exposed easy 5th class ledges to downclimb. A 70 is fine.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I think the recommendations you've gotten so far are pretty spot on. It's pretty much either the Tree Route, which is a blast, or Magic Dragon. The latter looks really nice and may be something to aim for if your partner is fit and up for a longer day. The former will be more of a fun afternoon kind of thing. Although the hike into the Needles is a chore, it's also got great scenery and will inspire you to come back. If you were willing to hike in, mostly to check it out, I'd venture to say that it would be worthwhile even if you were just going to tag the spire on the summit of Charlatan, though it's all of 40 ft. long. You can also do Poof, as someone up thread suggested, which looks fun and gets you to the summit of Magician (see the picture). How often do you get to descend by staircase?
Some others have suggested great routes (Igor, Windjammer, etc.) but those are definitely harder than what you were asking for. The only other routes I can think of might be the Beckey route (5.8) on the Hermit Spire, but the approach and length will definitely be offputting for a newbie.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I did the South Face of the Hermit recently as research for the book (it's coming, I swear it. The Needles is done, Dome is about there, Hermit left.) Anyway I though it was pretty heads up and no way 5.8. Even old school it's full on 5.9 free. Then again the topo in the green guide is out to lunch. Not even close, which is weird since the photo of Miguel is on route. That's an E.C. Joe topo, and it appears that he did yet another FA, this time without knowing it :-)
Anyway trust me it's not what yer lookin' for...
I think Poof is great. Of course I have a soft spot for it, being my first Needles route. Don't leave anything at the base, there's a rap off modern bolts on the west side which puts you right at the bottom of the old lookout stairs which hopefully you passed in the way in. The rap anchor is right up under the lookout site, if you poke around you'll find it. Two raps with a 60.
IMO Poof is much more interesting than all that low angle slabbing on Black Magic.
I trust you are aware of the useful beta to be found at Monsteroffwidthdotcom?
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overwatch
climber
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Great scoop ksolem, can't wait for the new guide
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Geez, I don't think the OP's request can be well-answered.
Honestly, it's tough out there, but as someone above said, electric and magical unlike any other place on the West Coast. It's worth every effort.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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E. C. Joe!!
Kris, blast from the past!
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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I know it is a long shot but does anybody have a PDF of the newer but out of print guide they would be willing to share?
Pretty please
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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Thanks fellas. We had a great trip. Ended up just going to Dome Rock. A fantastic little route. Just what we were looking for.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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So where's the TR??? :-)
(I loved The Tree Route btw)
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