Yosemite n00b question!

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jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2015 - 09:38am PT
Hello fellow climbers! I'm preparing for my trip to Yosemite in September! I don't know many climbers here in GA that have yet to make that pilgrimage, so I'm turning to you guys. My trip will be in the first week of September. All camping sites are booked. It's been my dream to stay at Camp 4, but I understand it gets crazy there. I've read I should be there by at least 5am. I don't have any qualms getting there at 5 (or earlier). If that doesn't pan out, anyone have any recommendations on where else I could look at to camp? Also, any recommendations on "must do" sports routes while there? I got the supertopo guidebook but I normally don't gage the quality of a climb based off of the star rating. Your insight and advice would be greatly appreciated!
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:44am PT
As far as other Valley campgrounds, I have had pretty good luck getting cancellation right before going. Check the reservation site often the week before you arrive. But you'll likely be ok using Camp 4 too.
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:48am PT
You could just seek out a friendly Ranger and ask if there are any caves you can sleep in.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:53am PT
There are sport routes in the Valley but that shouldn't be your reason to go there. You can sport climb anywhere but Yosemite is the cradle of traditional climbing. Broaden your horizons, they're are trad routes of all grades and plenty of people to mentor you.
nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:59am PT
*
Change your trip dates to September..22-27ish. and.Join in on the Facelift.. meet fellow compadres, find climbing partners, pick up some trash and get dialed into free camping for your volunteer effort.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2626023/Yosemite-Facelift-2015
jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2015 - 10:04am PT
I'm really wanting to get into trad, but I'm not familiar enough/comfortable enough with setting pro. If I could find some trad climbers to help teach me then I most definitely will. My climbing partner is trying to get some local friends to come out and help set up some multi-pitch/trad stuff if possible. If not, I want to at least get some sport routes/bouldering in on this trip.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jul 2, 2015 - 10:19am PT
The Valley will be teeming with trad climbers then, and you should have an easy time finding people who would like to climb with and mentor you. The Labor Day weekend tends to be one of the busiest in the Park. On and after Labor Day, however, you can usually find sites in Bridalveil Creek, White Wolf, Tamarack Flat and often, Crane Flat. Tamarack Flat, in particular, may be problematic this year because the creek is the only water source, and it will probably be dry. All of these site, except for Crane Flat, are a goodly distance from the Valley, though, and in the case of Bridalveil Creek, are also a goodly distance from a gas station.

Your best bet, though, is to try to get into Camp 4. If you succeed, your issues with getting a good taste of trad should take care of themselves.

John
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jul 2, 2015 - 10:48am PT
If you wake up to a maglight you didnt go far enough.

Truly funny!

edit: If you have never been to the valley just go there and hang. It takes a while to get the feel of the place. Go to Tuolumne as well.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 2, 2015 - 10:48am PT
Place gear
Place more gear,
Dogfish

Trad climber
Squid Valley
Jul 2, 2015 - 10:54am PT
Like Nita said, Facelift!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jul 2, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
One method I've used:

Arrive really late at night, no earlier than an hour or two after midnight. Bivy at the Camp 4 ranger's kiosk, laying right up against it. The next day, you're the first one in line. If a sleep-walking ranger maglights you, you're just getting in line early. And why are you in a sleeping bag? Well, it gets cold in the Valley at night, even in summer. You simply fell asleep waiting for the ranger to open the kiosk - ask Mr. Maglight if he will kindly open it up, so you can register yourself and get a proper campsite.

The Camp 4 bulletin board will be your social Holy Grail in the Valley.
Psilocyborg

climber
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
you can sport climb and boulder anywhere.

if you cant climb trad you should just hike and bag some peaks. Come here to enjoy the wilderness. Dont travel across the country to boulder...that doesnt make any sense!

Go scramble around in the Cathedral range. You will thank me later.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
Bring a sport coat and cruise the Ahwhanee bar with intent.
If you're good you won't have to risk a maglight.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 2, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
You don't have to be that good, you just have to lower your sights.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 3, 2015 - 05:50am PT
...sports routes...

YGBFSM
In the Valley? If you come all that way to climb sport routes in the Valley, I'll personally chop off your dick.
jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2015 - 06:54am PT
Thanks for all the great feedback and the possibility of chopping my dick off (usually I have to pay extra for that)! I'll have to take a weekend to hit up a local crag with some seasoned trad guys to practice setting pro. The honest purpose of this trip was to just be there and drink it in (If I can get in ANY form of climbing, that will be a plus). I'll check out the Camp 4 board and hopefully get in with some seasoned trad climbers.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 6, 2015 - 07:42am PT
A wee bit north of you there is a state (North Carolina) full of trad daddies. Beware.....they are grisly, bearded souls who rarely bathe....but they could be good mentors if they don't serve you up for breakfast.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Jul 6, 2015 - 09:33am PT
What part of Georgia are you in? I went to Medical College of Georgia and lived in Augusta for 7 years. Climbed the heck out of Tallulah Gorge, Currahee, Toccoa, HP40 and the T-Wall during those days. I miss the south sometimes. If you bring me 5lbs of real grits (none of that Quaker instant crap) and a whole frozen local catfish I might show you around and take you up Nutcracker or Central Pillar of Frenzy.

Scott
jmacrosoft

Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2015 - 11:20am PT
What part of Georgia are you in?

I'm inside the perimeter in Atlanta. Mostly hit up Sandrock, AL, Foster Falls, TN, HP40, and Boatrock.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jul 6, 2015 - 11:29am PT
Head over to those rocks by 41 and the river and you can play around with the gear some. Kinda desperate, but it's right there.

And the guy upthread who says he'll climb with you- take him up on it!

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