new free route on El cap!

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Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2015 - 05:28pm PT
http://www.climbing.com/news/heart-route-on-el-cap-goes-free/
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jun 19, 2015 - 06:18pm PT
Totally rad!!! Kudos for their dedication and skill.
ClimbingOn

Trad climber
NY
Jun 19, 2015 - 06:55pm PT
Well done! Incredible multi-year effort.
supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
Jun 19, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
Where was Adidas to sponsor the media coverage on this event?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 19, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
Heart Route - 5.13b V10 (34p: 5 5.12, 8 5.13)
 FFA - Mason Earle (all), Brad Gobright (all but the V10 dyno), 6/2015
 starts on Sacherer Cracker, "Heart Blast" reaches Heart Ledge in 7 pitches (2 are 5.13)
 V10 dyno crux is on p6
 p8-p11 are on Salathe', exits right 2p above Hollow Flake Ledge
 p12-p19 are on Heart Route (3 new consecutive 5.13 pitches here)
 p20-p34 are on Golden Gate (3 5.13 pitches here)
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#heart
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15s/newswire-heart-route-goes-free
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 20, 2015 - 12:16am PT
Wow! Congratulations to the first ascentionists.

John
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jun 20, 2015 - 05:15am PT
Kids today!
Sheesh . . Full value!
Just keep kickin' !
Gunkie

climber
Jun 20, 2015 - 05:41am PT
Wow. I've always wanted to climb the Heart Route by aid or free... well, by aid. I always thought it was a cool line in spite of people telling me it was a chossy mudfest.

I think this is an awesome achievement. Well done.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 20, 2015 - 06:35am PT
Nice work! That is so, awesomely cool!
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 20, 2015 - 06:56am PT
New route: Climb Sacherer Cracker and continue to top via difficult climbing.

Great accomplishment. Congratulations. I love that it starts from the top of the Sacherer Cracker. As Dean would say, "Everything is connected."

And, apparently, this brave new world is based on huge sideways dynos.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jun 20, 2015 - 10:14am PT
Proud!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jun 20, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
V10 downward dyno...

props to these guys
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jun 20, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
Amazing accomplishment Mason and Brad!

Were these guys unsupported too?

If so, that's even more badass!!
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
Jun 20, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
Damn good job guys! Amazing accomplishment.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jun 21, 2015 - 08:41am PT
Randisi, I believe the uproar over the Dawn Wall began when it was first aacended and the fallout led the media to go all-in, letting it all hang out.

The nobodies nobody knows were much less of a draw and managed to keep it sane and "real." Their reward is in having done it, pure and simple.

It's a totally impressive thing, and I remember my first year there, in Camp 4, hoping to meet either Kroeger or Davis, two of the younger generation, like myself, but that never happened.

Tremendous accomplishment, especially after a longish hiatus and getting their "second wind."

That is some bad-ass climbing on the Bartlett Wash crack, too, O MY GOD!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jun 21, 2015 - 09:52am PT
Pretty rad! Always thought that feature looked super fun to free, I love big granite dihedrals and that has it's fair share!

How many new pitches, and any new terrain? Really cool how the original lines on El Cap get new attention in the modern era :D
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Jun 21, 2015 - 10:27am PT
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 21, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
How many sling belays?
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jun 21, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
Wow! Great job to the FFA team.

New route: Climb Sacherer Cracker and continue to top via difficult climbing.
Love it!

V10 downward dyno...
I wonder if there's a video of it somewhere, or how soon there will be one.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jun 21, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
How many sling belays?


Oh, you....

;)
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