Barbara Zangerl

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2015 - 12:16pm PT

Barbara Zangerl

Barbara Zangerl
Barbara Zangerl
Credit: klettern.de
Barbara Zangerl
Barbara Zangerl
Credit: klettern.de

Climbing Hotel Supramonte (400m, 8b) at the Gola di Gorroppu, Sardinia, in April 2011.


Barbara Zangerl unstoppable! After serving her "apprenticeship" as a boulderer that culminated, in 2008 and at merely 19 years of age, in her reaching the limit of female bouldering with her send of Pura Vida (Fb8a+/8b) in Magic Wood in Switzerland, the determined Austrian climber decided to turn her attention elsewhere. Inverting everything and directing her power no longer at short intense problems but towards countless moves on long multi-pitch routes up big rock faces. And, in rapid succession, she repeated routes which have come to symbolize a rigorous first ascent ethic coupled with extreme difficulties: Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, Delicatessen in Corsica, End of Silence up Germany's Feuerhorn, Silbergeier in Switzerland's Rätikon, Des Kaisers neue Kleider on the Wilder Kaiser in Austria. Zangerl's transformation came about thanks to her supreme athletic background and this evolution now boasts another factor: her ability to carefully control mind and fear while executing a difficult trad climb. Yes, because yesterday afternoon she surprised everyone (first and foremost herself) with the first female repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung at the Bürser Platte in Austria. The slab and crack freed in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander and repeated recently by Italy's Jacopo Larcher. While the technical difficulties are estimated somewhere in the region of 8b/8b+, the crack - or rather two cracks - need protecting with tiny wires and during the first 10 meters falling off is strictly prohibited. Needless to say, Zangerl's ascent is of utmost importance and ranks as one of the hardest female trad climbs to date.

Planetmountain.com http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41647

Interview (UKC): http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57235

Barbara Zangerl at Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/barbara.zangerl
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2019 - 02:03pm PT

Prinzip Hoffnung - Barbara Zangerl

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 14, 2019 - 02:36pm PT
She and Jacopo have climbed more than one free route on El Cap.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2019 - 02:52pm PT

Babsi and Jacopo Send Zodiac (5.13d) on El Cap


Magic Mushroom

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 14, 2019 - 05:50pm PT
Thanks for starting this thread. Clearly a very talented and determined traditional climber.
D2R2

Sport climber
Earth
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:03pm PT
Proud send!!

@ 4:02, whats that? Holy moley!!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Mar 15, 2019 - 10:29am PT
I love these inspirational threads you start, Marlow. Thanks!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 16, 2019 - 08:05am PT
hey there say, marlow... wow, thanks for sharing this...

:)
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Mar 16, 2019 - 07:30pm PT
Thanks Marlow for the link, the film of the same sequence of moves with both climbers on Zodiac is great. Barbara is awesome.
zBrown

Ice climber
Mar 16, 2019 - 07:40pm PT
Let's call her

bZ

Talented young woman

To say the least

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Mar 16, 2019 - 07:41pm PT
you go gerl
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