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| Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 10, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
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Mitch, my climbing buddy, has put up a couple routes on basalt behind his house on the Wiamea river. I was checking out his handy work when I noticed a bolted route to the right of his work. It turns out he was unaware of it and was the work of someone else.
We asked an old timer who said there was someone at the end of the 80's early 90's who was back there. I'll get some pics later.
We were wondering if anyone out there knows about this route and if there is more in the vicinity. Its just past the end of the asphalt and across the river in Wiamea.
We also rappelled down into a subsidiary of Wiamea about two canyons over from Waipo o falls. Down stream and several raps later we found a pin and some old tat, someone had placed to continue down stream. This section of the canyon ends in a fall of at least 400 feet! We were not prepared to go farther but it was breathtaking to behold.
Anyone out there been playing around out here? I can't imagine there is many who have done this and can't think of a better place to ask the question. Guido, Bodawg I know you've spent time here, any ideas??????
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 10, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
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I ran into some bolted limestone by Poipu. I was not expecting limestone, nor bolts, nor the cave we checked out, but sure enough it was there. The bolts looked like mid 90's and totally rusted crappy danger.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 10, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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I'm no geologist but I don't see how there could be limestone anywhere in Hawaii.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 10, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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The Hawaiin islands are OLD most of em..seen quite a few ups and downs of sea levels.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 10, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
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Climbski, where is that? Pretty rad looking.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 10, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
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Po'ipu, Kaua'i
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 12:34am PT
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Yep, those bolted climbs are pretty cool at Poipu. When we were climbing the a docent for the cave right next to them opened the gate and let us in. Apparently it is an old site one of the oldest for the inhabitants of Kauai.
I think there is climbing at glass beach too. Tom, I climbed there five years ago and it was not that bad.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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Jay Smith put an 11c up on Kauai a few years ago.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:14am PT
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I'll be in Poipu next week, should I bring my shoes and chalk bag, any bouldering?
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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Thanks Jim, That could be it. It was beyond our first attempt and only got up three bolts before lowering off. I'll get a picture of it.
Still curious about the descent too.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:54am PT
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H, my time in the islands has been on boats, need any tips on anchorages, wind, life?
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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Whoa glad to hear there's some climbing on that island, but darn it as we were just there in March...and did not know of these routes. We brought our shoes for the bouldering that was referenced on MP, but the one day went it was high tide and the waves were big, so it was all underwater.
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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Found some pretty good bouldering on the Poipu side of the Island at a place called "Glass Beach". It's near the town of Port Allen, which by the way also has a great brew pub. Glass Beach was an old dump site from back in the 50's and lots of interesting relics of that period are lying about. Wish I'd brought along my shoes and chalk bag, but made due with Teva's.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
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Hey Harrison,
We'll be Kekaha in Sept. Maybe you can PM me with Mitch's info and we can give the climb a go.
T
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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So when is one of the ST rockheads gonna enlighten us as to the limestone etiology?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 12, 2015 - 06:38am PT
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Post a picture of the climb. Jay will be here tomorrow and can tell you it is the climb he put up.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Thanks Jim,
OK its at the end on Menehune rd. Just across the river on the right. I am having trouble getting the ST photo link to open up?????? Please ask Jay if he knew about the canyoneering. although I think that piton was put in a while ago.
Ya Tony, Mitch would be happy to show you around. You'll be able to send it. He has some routes to the left of this one and some right across the river from his back yard.
Thanks for the photo Brock. I had fun there too. Up until this place on the river the limestone was probably the best I knew of. But there is potential all over the place here.
I appreciate everyone input and will endeavor to get a photo of the 11c?
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
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Batrock, definitely bring your shoes at least for glass beach. If you have a partner then bring a rope and draws. My pal Mitch is out of town for a while. otherwise he'd be happy to show you around.
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Kurt Jensen
Trad climber
Aptos,CA
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Jun 13, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Hi Harrison- looks like you're having fun over there! What's the spread of
Climbing ratings & how many routes? Kauai is already somewhere I want to visit.
There was recently an article in Bike mag. about mountain biking there, looked great! I'd love to hear more about the climbs. Thanks!
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
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Still can't load up photos????? May have to wait until the mainland.
Kurt the bouldering/climbing at glass beach is As hard as you want. The Limestone is 5.9-10+. Both of these are in the Poipu area. Mitches routes are 5.8 and 5.10 offwidth trad. He has put up a couple top rope anchors on these. The unknown route probably the 11.b mentioned is bolted. These are in the Wiamea area.
I was just in the northern end of the island on the Kalalua trail. Seems like there is a ton of potential there too.
Kauai has a ton of cool things to do. If your headed that way let me know and I can get you in touch with my bud. He'd be happy to show you around.
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RockJohn
Boulder climber
GJ, CO
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How big is the climbing community out there in Kauai? I will be out there second week of January, and I would like to link up with some locals who could show me around. I mostly boulder, but I dabble in a little of everything.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Brand new climb in Kauai. Kitty Calhoun cranking on a new route put up by Jay Smith.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Don't know.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Hey Jim, hope yer good. If you see Jay say hey from me.....ask about the piton he bought a few years back at an auction. When bidding closed and it was his, he turned to me and said,”what the phuck did I just do?” We got a good laugh out of it!
Peace
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Lisa Lucas
Trad climber
Kauai
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Hi,is anyone on Kauai that wants to climb or and knows these cave routes?I would love to have a climbing partner on this beautiful tropical island. I m on Kauai and will be going to check out these caves soon!
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