WORLD'S GREATEST BOLT HANGER THREAD

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karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 02:02pm PT


In the 1991/1992 Metolius catalog it shows the Rap Hanger and SS and Environmental bolt hanger. On the cover is super star climber Jim Karn. So I have a gap in catalog years not having the 1989 or 1990 information so Doug is needed to fill that in. Doug mentioned that he thought the first hanger came in 1989, but the rap hanger was created before the SS and environmental hangers were introduced. So maybe 1989 rap then 1990 smaller hangers?

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 02:16pm PT

Lets not forget that bolt hanger stickers also count as hangers!

:)

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2017 - 12:04pm PT


Found this recently on ebay. Lixada hanger and bolt from China

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 04:03pm PT


New for 2017, Fusion now offers their hanger in black color.


karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 04:06pm PT

This is a hanger that was replaced by CASA, Climbing Association of Southern AZ. After they replace the old hangers they flatten them and cut a groove on the back side to serve as a bottle opener. Stamped CASA


karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 04:08pm PT


Climb Tech hangers that have two different stamps






karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 04:15pm PT


New for 2017 FIXE has added a "UP" word and arrow to their hangers just above the bolt hole. But not always is the bolt hanger placed in the up position. In the rock gym, for course setting the load goes upward so the up arrow has to face downward to be in the correct load pulling position. I figure if a person needs the hanger to instruct them on how the hanger is properly placed, they probably should not be placing the bolt for others to use in the first place.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 22, 2017 - 08:34pm PT
Gotta love the Climbing Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) for all the bolt replacement and other service projects they have taken on. Rising from the ashes of the wholly corrupted SACC to do great work for the climbing community. Very creative use for all those old stainless steel SMC hangers!
I'll have to snag one next time I am in Tucson. Could be one of mine. LOL
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
May 22, 2017 - 09:18pm PT



karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2017 - 05:27pm PT


 Post #36 on this thread....



Crunch - "Placed 1967 by Eric Bjornstad on North Chimney, Echo Tower, Fisher Towers, Utah. Still there! Still hold bodyweight (or did as recently as 2007, forty years after the FA)! I asked Eric about this, showed him a photo, he had no recollection."

 Still don't know who made this anchor and what it's original use was but Supertopo "the Brave Cowboy" came up with this photo...




karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2017 - 08:38pm PT



At the summer Outdoor Retailers show I found a few more new bolts and hangers from a company located in Taiwan named King Snaps. All of their gear has no manufacturers mark on it.


BEK

Mountain climber
Switzerland
Aug 16, 2017 - 11:32am PT
Hello

RK could be for Reinhard Karl



Reinhard Karl (1946–1982) – Freeclimber; he was the first person wich climbed the northface of the eiger in 1.5 day(1969); he also climbed as the first person the grade VII(UIAA) on route (Pumprisse, 1977). He was the first german on Mount Everest (1978)
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Aug 16, 2017 - 03:09pm PT
Someone posted on Mountain Project that they just replaced 90 ClimbX hangers and most were cracked - after one year. Pretty stunning failure rate that may (or may not) have to do with cheap offshore steel or mfg process. I would be concerned with that shiny King Snap stuff too.

Marty - I love your outdoor show summaries and product information. Thanks so much for taking the time to post the information!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Aug 16, 2017 - 03:54pm PT
Marty, S. Grossman ID'd that janky hanger/bolt combo as an old school masonry anchor
Rustie

climber
Coeur d\\\\\\\'Alene
Aug 16, 2017 - 06:50pm PT
Damn Martyy!
I thought that, by now, you would have been able to get professional help for this Hanger thing........
But, at the risk of encouraging both our obsessions, a few comments (you already have all my "historic" (aka dangerous) pieces......

That "kidney shaped", steel, Stubai, biner was known as a "MARWA".....an acronym for Wastl Mariner, the original Austrian mountain rescue ace (Longi-Eigerwand), who developed it for karabiner brake lowers. I did my first, over the shoulder, "abseils" on this baby ..........yuuuuckkkkkk

Those examples of electro galvanic decay could be very useful for some dedicated climber/engineer working on the nobility of metals.......as in coastal and industrial areas.

An interesting development in hanger design was when folks like Dolt (an accomplished metallurgist) changed from the bent-strip design to the present angle iron ("stand-on?) type......which, we are told, is much more strong and reliable, nor exerting an outward-levering force.
Perhaps the mental processes (and capacities?) of climbers could shed some light on our progress through the tool-making neolithic, and give us some hope for humanity in these difficult times..........

Thanks a lot........keep on truckin........

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2017 - 07:24pm PT


thebravecowboy - It is obviously a masonry anchor. The question is, what was that masonry anchors intended use and who is the manufacturer?


BEK - I will add your RK info to the unknown “RK” list.


Jeremy Ross - I never thought of it that way. Yes “Snaps” is not necessarily a good name for a climbing gear line.


Ney Grant - The ClimbX hanger problem sucks! Thanks for the outdoor show props!
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2017 - 07:25pm PT
The awesome Rusty shoe box of treasures!!! Fantastic items!





Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 16, 2017 - 07:38pm PT
As the anchor in question clearly is not designed for climbing use why the reset? Folks have plenty of reasons to want to attach all manner of things to masonry. Way BITD anything that seemed reasonable for the intended use was fair game hence Eric's use on this climb as an aid placement. This anchor has the same basic design as a Star Dryvin with a lead shield to provide the bite for the nail that is missing in the photo.
Hang a ring, hang some chain, hang a trellis or give a vine a chance...
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2017 - 08:52pm PT


Steve - When I go to the hardware store I don't see anchors that are designed like that. So to me that particular anchor had a intended purpose. I know it was not necessarily intended to be used as a climbing anchor, but I am just putting the question out there of what its actual use was, and who was the manufacturer. To say it is just a simple masonry anchor does not satisfy my personal curiosity.



karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2017 - 06:32am PT
Ashby Robertson posted this on Facebook yesterday and linked me to it this morning. Thanks Ashby for showing proof and answering the mystery!

"An excellent fastening for guide wire on sign installations, outdoor radio equipment, etc"
Mfg - Star



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