Has anyone gone up to Lucifer's Ledge lately?

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Powder

Trad climber
the Box
Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
How are the bolts/rappels' conditions?

...did Point Beyond Direct and Point Beyond weeks ago (enjoyed it very much and had lots of fun, and weeks before that we did Marginal and an unknown route to its right that is not in any guide book - absolutely loved both!! : ) ...thinking to go back up to Lucifer's Ledge via Angel's Approach (and maybe to the Oasis) but not sure how the bolts/anchors are especially on Lucifer's to The Oasis...

Side question: Which is the best way to get to the Oasis? For the longest time I thought it was either "hitchhiking" Galactic Hitchiker from Goodrich (which might be a little while 'til I take this route but I'm definitely trying to prepare myself for it and would like to take the ride one day =] ,) or via Coonyard to the Oasis, not realizing that you could also get up there from Lucifer's Ledge?! But then after reading Karl Baba's TR and comment, it makes me wonder... @_@


[Before starting a new topic, I did a search and found some beta, but it seems to be fairly old and might be outdated... so I'm just curious if anyone has gone up that way recently, or in the recent years. Any inform and input is appreciated!! Thanks!! *^_^*

And yes I LOVEEEE slabs ~_~y Now I'm finally injury free and ready, or will be ready, for some of the classics, I cannot wait to get up to Middle Cathedral North Face Apron and Arches Apron. Checked out the base of those two areas a little while back and I'm so drawn to them. : ] This might be off-topic, but I'd also like to thank Clint, Roger and all who have been replacing the bolts in the Valley and Tuolumne - thank you for all your have done!! Especially thank you for keeping some of those routes alive so we have the opportunities to get on them!! *^_^* ]
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 30, 2015 - 09:30pm PT
hey there say, powder, happy good eve, to you...

say, hope someone chips in soon as possible...

:)


edit: wow, neat and enthusiastic post, you did there, too...

:)
Powder

Trad climber
the Box
Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
Neebee!!!!!!!!

Thank you!!! You're the sweetest!!!!! *^_^*

And good evening to you! (((((((((((hugs)))))))))))
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 30, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
hey there say... wow, thanks!... you were still on line, too...

hugssssss.... >:D<


night now, i got to get to chores, around here, this eve, now...
good to see you!
Cancer Boy

Trad climber
Freedonia
May 30, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
This is a troll right? Either way, you know what you are gonna do, right?

In all seriousness though, Angel's to Lucifer's is fully intact, as of about 2-3 years ago, anyway. No evidence of rockfall. The last two pitches are first rate slab. Don't know about higher pitches.

You probably know this, but MC Apron has some spicy runouts, and some have (or had when I did them many years ago) serious groundfall potential, such as the first pitch of Freewheeling. Arches Apron can be quite harrowing - steeper than GPA and slicker than MCA - and in most cases pretty run out (Greasy but Groovy, e.g.). These areas require much more head than the GPA. Just FYI.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2015 - 12:33am PT
Roger and I replaced all the original bolts on Angel's Approach and Lucifer's Ledge a few years ago.
So you don't have to worry about 1/4" bolts on those.
I believe there have not been any big rockfalls in the area since then,
so the 3/8" stainless bolts should be intact.

The fastest and most direct way to The Oasis is Goodrich Right Side and then Goodrich to Oasis.
Galactic Hitchhiker follows these pitches, with maybe a few minor variations which are not clean anymore.

Coonyard to Oasis has several harder pitches.

Lucifer's Ledge to Oasis is supposed to have a big runout near the top.
Bob and I climbed a route from Angel's Approach to Glacier Point Terrace
which does not go out right to Lucifer's Ledge.
It probably intersects with Lucifer's to Oasis.
It's also harder than Goodrich Right Side and Goodrich to Oasis.
It's called Angels to Oasis.

You could probably reach The Oasis even faster by climbing the old right side of Glacier Point Terrace route. It's only 5.2.
This is the way the guys reached The Oasis when they did the FA of The Hinterland.
However, it goes through two recent rockfall zones, so it might not be very pleasant.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
May 31, 2015 - 08:20am PT
What Clint said. I don't remember any bolts, or much protection for that matter, on Lucifer's to the Oasis. If you want to get to the Oasis besides Lucifer's or Goodrich you could also do Coonyard to the Oasis. The rappel route from the Oasis to the ground follows Coonyard for the most part so you could bail pretty easily if things weren't working out.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
May 31, 2015 - 08:49am PT
Wee oh ! the sends of the more or less out of flavor but a true form of climbing.
the exhibition of dance on rock up blank slab!
The Master Bob Kamps comes to mind . .
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 31, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
FYI Note to the OP: the green Roper guidebook lists Grack, Right Side as the route right from Marginal. I climbed it back in 1981 and found it very run out at "5.9" and did it in RR Verappes. I posted a description on Mountain Project a few years ago.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 2, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
No reason to think Lucifer's to the Oasis has seen any improvements which means whole pitches (5.9?) with no pro ending in at least one belay that's only a fixed bong. My crazy solo TR

http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/LucifersLedgeSolo.html

Goodrich to Oasis, pretty safe and protected (compared to the alternatives) and the 5.10 pitches are light. Coonyard to Oasis: years ago at least one belay was single 1/4 inch bolt if I remember correct (cause long time ago) but maybe somebody has beefed that one up. Long, long run outs on 5.8+ slab if you find the right line.

Standard 'yur gunna die" blessing applies but at least you'd have a while to say your prayers sliding down that slab.

The whole galactic Hitchhiker route is awesome in my opinion

Peace

Karl
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 2, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
oh yeah, and thanks to the men to make the death anchor at Lucifers safe

Peace

Karl
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 2, 2015 - 11:36pm PT
To reinforce what Clint said, getting to the Oasis via Glacier Point Terrace is very easy, with the usual caveat for rockfall issues. The other advantage of scouting that out is on the descent. The way down from the Oasis can be a seemingly endless set of rappels if you don't know how to find the Glacier Point Terrace descent. If you do find the descent, it involves very few raps and an easy traverse.

Incidentally, the first ascent to the top of the Point from the Oasis (i.e. The Hinterland) started by climbing the Harding route, not Glacier Point Terrace. It's been over 40 years since I last did the Harding Route, and it got clobbered in the Big Rock Fall, but we got down by traversing (third class) over to Glacier Point Terrace.

For years we considered Lucifer's to the Oasis a death route because of its reputation for very long runouts with at least one really bad anchor. I think the most enjoyable way to The Oasis is via Goodrich. Just getting to Coonyard has some significant runouts, but the first couple of pitches after Coonyard are really strung out.

John
couchmaster

climber
Jun 3, 2015 - 06:52am PT

Thanks Clint and Roger for replacing all those bolts on Lucifers! Coonyead to the Oasis has 2 bolt anchors each pitch now Karl. Fun route.

It's been years since I've done Lucifers, although it use to be a Glacier point fav getting there via the Point Beyond/Angels Approach way and I did it all the time. It was my most liked long Apron route. Only tried it to the Oasis once though, a stupidity which was never repeated. The old Meyers book listed a pitch someplace above Lucifers as "5.7", but it seemed harder than any of the others below which were clocking 5.9. (Meyers also listed the fist pitch of Reg NW face of half dome as 5.9, and it seemed hard until the next guide came out and called it 5.11) Coupled with being @ 60-80' from the anchor with no pro between you. Partner and I were both getting up hard 5.10 slabs at the time, and although we both tried it neither of us had the stones to pull the moves. Neither of us thought we were on route, but now I'm not so sure. It was along downclimb for us both, and we had unwisely chosen to climb that day with only one rope as we'd "heard" from a friend confident there was a new single rope rap from the Oasis. It was pretty knarley sh#t getting back to dirt without 2 ropes on hand, and rapping off single 1/4" bolts is not something I suggest for anyone.

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