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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
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Video is an add for Petzl tools, but the mixed climbing footage is pretty radical (starts at 8:30). I've never seen this level of climbing before. Makes me tired just watching. And not graceful IMHO, but interesting to know its gone this far.....
https://vimeo.com/15122162
or
http://vimeo.com/15122162
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 30, 2015 - 12:23am PT
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Mike, it appears to be here. Amazing!
John
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tripmind
Boulder climber
San Diego
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May 30, 2015 - 12:30am PT
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It's like if you made a barrel of monkies climb rocks, then it would look something like that.
Real talk, isn't anyone paranoid about the possibility of some new punk climbers coming out to your home crag and breaking holds off of classic routes with dry tools?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2015 - 12:58am PT
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Didn't someone do a controversial climb in the Black using ice tools? In my judgement steal and rock go together about as well as fingernails and chalkboards. ha
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 30, 2015 - 06:12am PT
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Crude.
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Dick_Lugar_II
Trad climber
Center of My Universe...
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May 30, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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Lets see...NO falls AND it increases your reach by 12" give or take?!
....I'm ALL IN!!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 30, 2015 - 10:43am PT
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Tools don't help much in the wyde world, and they can be downright counterproductive.
Plus, I've done enough choss to know they can be extremely hazardous to yer health there.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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May 30, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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It's not for everyone but dry tooling as an extension of extreme alpine mixed climbing is a vibrant sport to itself. This was a pretty good video and ad campaign.
The Quark (mine are the older single pinky grip version) has been my tool of choice for a long time. It is a supremely versatile and effective axe. But don't listen to me I carry TriCams which are also supremely versatile and effective. Both Quarks and TriCams appeal to my artsy artsy nature.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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May 30, 2015 - 11:56am PT
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Just looks like dynamic aid climbing to me...
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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May 30, 2015 - 11:59am PT
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Try it try it you will see
Dry tool climbing is
Hard for you and me.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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May 30, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
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Y'all are screwing up the curmudgeon party line on this one, and about 16 years late to the party(See "The Brotherhood" and M16 on Howse peak, "Twice as hard as M8!?!?")
The approved objections are "I bet those punks didn't even put the bolts in from the ground up" or "We used pins back in my day"
As for the Black, at least Ogden and Nelson have shown the good taste to renounce their previous style since the Hallucinogen has gone free, wish others were as courteous.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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May 30, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
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Aid climbing, no more.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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May 30, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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I wouldn't be dismissive of this approach to rock climbing. In the mid 1950s when I was introducing chalk to the sport, there were those whose hands sweated naturally, like mine, who were receptive, generally. Then there were those whose hands didn't sweat much (like Chouinard) who thought chalk use unethical.
These tools, which could undergo further refinement for rock climbing only, could be a little like the Colt .45 in the old west: equalizers. If you are frustrated that little girls with tiny hands and fingers can outclimb you, you might want to reduce your disadvantages - big, fat fingers, heavy body - by using an "equalizer" that allows you to latch onto those tiny crimp holds, and shifts your physical challenge to upper body strength. Many of the really "difficult" boulder problems these days are really "tiny hold" problems, as witnessed when watching skinny guys and girls crimping up the rock. The actual physical strength requirements may be modest if you can only lock onto those damn thin crimp holds!
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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May 30, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Is it just my paranoia but you never see successive moves in that film the way it's cut. I don't see how an ice axe gets enough purchase on a hold or at least a series of holds by virtue of dynamic lunges without grip especially on something so significantly overhung... and to then do pull-ups on it? Not sure I buy it.
Or maybe I'm just overhung.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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May 30, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
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@jgill: Or like sticky rubber.
But dry-tooling still looks like aid to me.
:)
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 30, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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Looks like fun!
Unless you climb barefoot.. it's all aid climbing.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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May 30, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
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Beware the future for it will leave you in the past.
What the top practitioners of are doing is truly mind boggling.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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May 30, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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There WILL be changes in the way the sport is perceived and practiced, along with innovations in equipment. Eventually the rating systems in effect today will be altered or replaced. Which makes it important when researching climbing history to put everything in the context of the times.
Think shoulder stands are cheating? Not in the 1920s.
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jstan
climber
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May 30, 2015 - 08:04pm PT
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First, dry tooling;
Carefully watch Ueli Steck's video on the Eiger. There are two dry tooling slips on steep to
overhanging rock. In one of them he could well have gone had his left elbow not been
pressed against a small right facing corner.
Second, the future:
Every climber has their own rules for climbing. With our difficulty ratings we pretend
everyone has the same rules. But we don't. Not really. I have read Joe Brown initially caught
some flack for using pins. Reportedly he limited himself to two per pitch. Potentially two 60
foot run outs.
So what is it, other than his achievements, that made Joe so admirable? No matter how
much he may have wanted to break his own rules, he didn't. Integrity.
The future will be very exciting. Not due to free soloing though. Free soloing is not a widely
participatory undertaking, so to speak.
Many years ago, climbers completely changed their method of gaining protection. I think
most of us found that time the most exciting of all. Just imagine how exciting it would be to
be up on Everest and K2 clearing away the litter. Tasks like this are everywhere one looks.
So it is the last day of Facelift everyone starts looking forward to the next.
Edit:
I think the parachute will work only in some places and the location of the fall needs to be
predictable. It won't work every where.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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May 30, 2015 - 08:28pm PT
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The future will be very exciting. Not due to free soloing though. Free soloing is not a widely participatory undertaking, so to speak
I wonder if the definition of "free soloing" may change, John. Potter was pushing in that direction with his tiny backpack parachute in Vertical Uprising. Some breakthroughs in paraphernalia might change the practice and perspective.
Darn climbers are inventive!
;>)
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