Little Yosemite Valley Climbing

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
BrandonAdams

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 28, 2015 - 11:12pm PT
Hey All,
Anybody have any info on climbing in Little Yosemite Valley? Any routes? History? Cascade Cliffs? Bunnell Point?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 28, 2015 - 11:18pm PT
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/goldenbear.pdf
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 29, 2015 - 05:17am PT
Moraine Dome (8005')

2455. Minerals' Manufacturing Plant A3?, 2p
2456. Assembly Line A3?, 1p

Sugarloaf Dome (7683')

2457. Sugarloaf Dome - SW Face 5.6 A2, Ro, Secor, aid diag left from bushy ledge
2458. Sugarloaf Dome - South Face 5.9, Ro, Secor, free traverse R from bushy ledge

Bunnell Point (8193')

2459. The Golden Bear 5.10b, 18p, left dike, topo
2460. Bunnell Point - NW Face 5.9 *, 14p, right dike, 15x, Secor
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Jul 15, 2015 - 11:53am PT
Has anyone done The Golden Bear recently? Looking for any special approach or route information.
Thanks,
Greg
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jul 15, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
I did not know LYV got torched that bad. This fire crap sure sucks.

edit: poodle dog bushes like it though.
Byran

climber
San Jose, CA
Jul 15, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
Bunnell Point looks pretty nice

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jul 15, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
More info and stories and pictures! Looks like an awesome escape from the crowds into a beautiful area.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 15, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
Thread drift, but man that scorched earth picture is sad. I feel like that's part of California's future for the next few decades. I still have a hard time driving along Angeles Crest Highway even though the Station Fire was years ago. Never be the same in my lifetime.
bbbeans

Trad climber
Jul 15, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
Not all of LYV looks like that. Fire is nature's way of clearing out the old to get ready for the new!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 15, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
Greg,
I doubt anything has changed on Golden Bear - the topo should be good.
Photos and maps on this thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=771643&tn=0

The E face of Bunnell Point is on the left half of this photo.
On the right is the E face of Sugarloaf Dome.
The climbing routes like Golden Bear are on the SW face of Bunnell point - in shadow/profile in this photo.
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Jul 20, 2015 - 09:47am PT
Peter Coward and I did Golden Bear on Bunnell Point last weekend. Topo posted in earlier threads is pretty accurate. Got off route along the middle traversing pitches but rejoined a few pitches higher. Great route but I don't think any of the bolts on the route would hold a fall at this point - really old and rusted. Every bolt needs to be replaced. Very scenic back there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 20, 2015 - 10:56am PT
Cool.
Was this overlay guess about right?
Did you also look for the other route (on the right dike)?
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 20, 2015 - 11:03am PT
Know someone who was working on a ground-up hand-drilled FA in Little Yosemite Valley just last week. Not finished yet I take it, but will be soon.
squishy

Mountain climber
Jul 20, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
why say anything, if you aren't really going to say anything, lol
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 29, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
Greg made a few comments on facebook about the bolts on pitch 3:

 Looking down pitch 3 - sketchy, run out climbing with bad bolts.
 Basically 150 ft of 5.10 with no gear. Heads up for sure.
 kept hoping the next bolt would be better. One was flattened, presumably by rock fall. The belay at the end was missing one bolt and the other was worthless, so I had to keep going and rig a belay with micro cams and RPs. Old school.
Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
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