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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 6, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
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In climbing, a pinkpoint is similar to a redpoint. To obtain or accomplish a pinkpoint, the climber must climb the route from the start, leading while clipping the rope into previously placed quickdraws as they go to the top, without falling or hanging on the rope.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinkpoint
PINKPOINT. An outdated term used to describe a redpoint ascent where the quickdraws are in place for the successful ascent. In reality this is nowadays how most redpoint ascents are done and the term 'pinkpoint' has become redundant.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=33
Pinkpoint is not redundant. Why do you hang the draws anyways? Because it's easier. Just call it what it is.
Then people can aspire to a better style rather than be confused if it was actually a redpoint or if you cheated yourself.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Nothing wrong with yarding on gear, stepping on gear, or hanging from gear.
But if you do, you can't say you've freed the pitch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Nothing wrong with it at all Chaz. Just call it what it is.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Seems like a rant...
But one I completely agree with. Call it what it is.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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Full rant. Just had some people tell me it doesn't matter tonight. All the hard guys climb with the draws on so who cares?
I care because it makes the route easier. And i don't give a sh!t about how you did it, but for me, it's not a redpoint until I go ground up and place the pro myself.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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When is the La Dura Dura gonna get a redpoint?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
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Exactly V
Dawn wall still needs one too.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sounds like to much hassle. Suggest toprope.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Pre-placed clips = pink point.
No grey area here.
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WindRiverWildman
Trad climber
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Agree - harder to place draws on lead than clip them.
It's also why some sport climbers think trad ratings are sandbagged.
Still amazing to watch Chris and Adam pinkpoint La Dura Dura. The tuffa dyno pinch is crazy!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Clipping draws into bolt hangers does not exactly equal placing pro.
Drilling the bolt then clipping them might. Unless you use an electric drill.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:24pm PT
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Climb2ski, you are of course correct, but it's still easier to just clip your rope than the draw and the rope!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Agreed.
Now how do I redpoint routes with permadraws?
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ruppell
climber
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So you can never redpoint a steep route that has existing fixed chain draws. Interesting.
EDIT: Great minds limpingcrab.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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You think if someone does RP the dawn wall or LA Dura dura, rock climbing mags will report it as a true redpoint and brush off those climbs as pinkpoints? I don't give a sh#t since I won't ever have enough skill to free a fraction of that wall, but would be kind of funny if someone claims a first redpoint of La Dura dura or the dawn wall...I wonder who got the first redpoint of Astroman by not clipping fixed pins etc...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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If difficulty = glory I recommend carrying a big rock in one hand all the way up.
Or perhaps climbing with only 1 shoe.
From now on you cannot claim a second ascent of any route I do unless you have a blue buttplug inserted.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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If difficulty = glory I recommend carrying a big rock in one hand all the way up.
Adding artificial difficulty doesn't = removing difficulty.
How do I redpoint routes with permadraws.
Daniel VERY GOOD QUESTION!
According to the original definitions..... YOU CAN'T!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Ok ..do it barefoot then.
Shoes=aidclimbing
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:28pm PT
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Naked and solo? Lol
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ruppell
climber
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What if I clip my own draws to the fixed draws. Then I could claim it. I'm gonna go claim about twenty FRP's now. I'll be famous. lol
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