New route following the MC east buttress rappel

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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Martijn

Sport climber
SAN FRANCISCO
Topic Author's Original Post - May 5, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
I came the down the excellent (thanks Clint) new rappel line of the east buttress on Middle cathedral last weekend and noticed the bolted line coming up it. It looks like a very nice climb but i can't find any information about it.

Is there any info available?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 5, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
Yes, it's 5.10c, 7 pitches.
When Job and I established the MC East Face rap route,
I thought it would be a good location because it was too steep and blank to free climb.
But when rapping down, we noticed some holds that connect crack systems.
Bob and I finished it a couple of months ago.
At present it doesn't top out, and you rap back down.
There might be a way to stay closer to the rap line on p7 and top out.
(But the hand crack over there on the left was kinda tempting).
Martijn

Sport climber
SAN FRANCISCO
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
Wow Thanks! I will give it a shot one of my next trips.
msiddens

Trad climber
May 5, 2015 - 06:09pm PT
Nice work
john hansen

climber
May 5, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
Always amazing how much info Clint has.

Even cooler he went down , then up.
North

climber
May 5, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
Clint, Strong work. Name of this nice looking line?
bob

climber
May 5, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
Nice Clint. Thanks
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 5, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
I don't think it has a name yet?
I think we were waiting to check with Job -
he and I started it but he has been dealing with a shoulder injury for awhile.
We would normally go back and try to find a longer finish,
but Bob's second child is arriving soon.
p7 may have been climbed before; there was an existing rap anchor at its top,
and it was probably reached by climbing corners left of our route.
The route is dirty in places (such the corner on p4).
On one attempt I broke a hold before the first bolt on p2 and almost took a bad fall.
Fortunately the other jug I was holding was good enough to catch me on one arm.
The crack there is cleaner now, so there's no reason to be runout like I was....
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
May 5, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
Cool, Clint.

A friend and I did one of your bolted routes to the right of the Braille Book recently, good fun. Bit of iffy rock, but not bad. It caught our eye as we were rapping after doing the Book of Job - nice way to link more pitches into the day.

Look forward to trying this new one at some point.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 5, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
Excellent climbing contentment bump!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 6, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
Clint, you've taken a page out of Tom Patey's book, i.e. "What did you climb?" "Don't know. Haven't named it yet."

Great work, as always.

John
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 6, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
Well there's the Book of Job

how about

the Face of Job
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
May 6, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
Clint, the man, the myth, the legend, delivers again.
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
May 9, 2016 - 07:12pm PT
Just did this route today. Skipped the last pitch for time sake but it looked cool.

The route is really good! Be careful at the end of pitch 4, there is some loose rock that needs to be trundled. An inexperienced leader may have problems here with placing solid pro and not pulling off holds. Otherwise the route is solid and fun! 2nd and 3rd pitches stood out.

Here's friend coming up the second pitch corner !

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 9, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
Cool - glad you had fun on it!
I'll check the loose rock section you described the next time I'm on it.
It does have a name now, courtesy of Job:
"Up the Down Staircase".
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
May 10, 2016 - 07:59am PT
Nice work, Clint!
bob

climber
May 15, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
Had a lot of fun on this route yesterday. The second and third pitches are really good! Thanks for the work Clint and co.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 15, 2017 - 04:41pm PT
Cool, bob - glad you had fun on it.
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
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