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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Martijn
Sport climber
SAN FRANCISCO
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 5, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
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I came the down the excellent (thanks Clint) new rappel line of the east buttress on Middle cathedral last weekend and noticed the bolted line coming up it. It looks like a very nice climb but i can't find any information about it.
Is there any info available?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Yes, it's 5.10c, 7 pitches.
When Job and I established the MC East Face rap route,
I thought it would be a good location because it was too steep and blank to free climb.
But when rapping down, we noticed some holds that connect crack systems.
Bob and I finished it a couple of months ago.
At present it doesn't top out, and you rap back down.
There might be a way to stay closer to the rap line on p7 and top out.
(But the hand crack over there on the left was kinda tempting).
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Martijn
Sport climber
SAN FRANCISCO
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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Wow Thanks! I will give it a shot one of my next trips.
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john hansen
climber
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Always amazing how much info Clint has.
Even cooler he went down , then up.
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North
climber
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Clint, Strong work. Name of this nice looking line?
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bob
climber
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Nice Clint. Thanks
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I don't think it has a name yet?
I think we were waiting to check with Job -
he and I started it but he has been dealing with a shoulder injury for awhile.
We would normally go back and try to find a longer finish,
but Bob's second child is arriving soon.
p7 may have been climbed before; there was an existing rap anchor at its top,
and it was probably reached by climbing corners left of our route.
The route is dirty in places (such the corner on p4).
On one attempt I broke a hold before the first bolt on p2 and almost took a bad fall.
Fortunately the other jug I was holding was good enough to catch me on one arm.
The crack there is cleaner now, so there's no reason to be runout like I was....
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Cool, Clint.
A friend and I did one of your bolted routes to the right of the Braille Book recently, good fun. Bit of iffy rock, but not bad. It caught our eye as we were rapping after doing the Book of Job - nice way to link more pitches into the day.
Look forward to trying this new one at some point.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Excellent climbing contentment bump!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Clint, you've taken a page out of Tom Patey's book, i.e. "What did you climb?" "Don't know. Haven't named it yet."
Great work, as always.
John
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Well there's the Book of Job
how about
the Face of Job
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Clint, the man, the myth, the legend, delivers again.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Just did this route today. Skipped the last pitch for time sake but it looked cool.
The route is really good! Be careful at the end of pitch 4, there is some loose rock that needs to be trundled. An inexperienced leader may have problems here with placing solid pro and not pulling off holds. Otherwise the route is solid and fun! 2nd and 3rd pitches stood out.
Here's friend coming up the second pitch corner !
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool - glad you had fun on it!
I'll check the loose rock section you described the next time I'm on it.
It does have a name now, courtesy of Job:
"Up the Down Staircase".
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 10, 2016 - 07:59am PT
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Nice work, Clint!
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bob
climber
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May 15, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
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Had a lot of fun on this route yesterday. The second and third pitches are really good! Thanks for the work Clint and co.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 15, 2017 - 04:41pm PT
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Cool, bob - glad you had fun on it.
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