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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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This reminds me of climbing at Lover's Leap, discreetly rushing up the talus in the cool morning air, avoiding actually breaking in to a run, as that would be a little uncool, while another party is converging on the chosen climb from another angle. Everyone knew that whoever got there first had the route, no one needed anything explained to them.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Lovers Leap has a heap of routes of similar grade. I don't know why people stand in line there...the line, schimitar, bear's reach, east face, pop bottle, psychedelic tree, haystack or even fandango. There are so many good climbs there..just on the east face. So much to choose from, but people still want to climb on someone's ass or wait forever. When I was a beginner it made me feel rushed when someone is on my ass. I liked to have some space and not feel rushed doing something risky I was not yet super comfortable with. :/
Ps: I am still a beginner. But one that is a bit more skilled than a few years ago.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2015 - 08:11am PT
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I liked to have some space and not feel rushed doing something risky I was not yet super comfortable with. :/
The crux of my argument. Thanks. And you're not a beginner V. Intermediate is probably a better definition.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Ps: I am still a beginner
Modesty will get you nowhere. nOOb
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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I had the sort of opposite happen to me on my first visit to the States in 1978. I went to 90ft Wall at Tahoe and led two or three routes. A guy came over to me and told me that he didn't approve of me leading.
"We top rope here. If you want to lead, go somewhere else!"
So, like Mike, I also became a total dick and soloed a couple more routes. And then (confession time) I stole his Swiss Army penknife. If that person was you, no, you can't have it back
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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"We top rope here. If you want to lead, go somewhere else!"
No kidding? One of the weirdest things I've ever heard.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Modesty will get you nowhere. nOOb
Thank god I am in no hurry to be anywhere...I should re-fill my cup of coffee though. :)
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I no longer go to the Gunks but even before any bolted anchors, other parties dropping a rope on you, was a constant problem. This went on for years, so much so that it became a regular part of the climbing experience. A long stern, critical look at all who past to elicit any response,
" What Are You Looking At?" was the sign that the person might be rude.
A Rude MoFoe, can and will get you hurt , ruin your day or your life;+< by dropping things on your head.
In all cases of Rude Mofos
I CHOSE TO LEAVE FIRST IF I CAN!
I Like the Big Mike, I would say that If I am there first,
and have in my mind, it as the game plan; anything, inluding,top rope laps, or
2 leads ,one Lead to Pre _ Place for my "partner" Is fair and the line starts right here! (when did that change?)
I am going to stay and be in the moment. If sweet works that is the best tonic and I share space instantly to a smiling face, (which is not always a good measure.!)
Then I might just do as Big Mike did and become;
One Rude Opinionated S O B!
and ask them way before hand to "Be careful" and "do not drop any thing on us!"
If that is ignored I might just start telling them how to climb Or;
" Hey, she shouldn't stand on the rope" just as the clip is made,
to the leader when I should be addressing his belayer.
But being the shy sensitive type i don't want to lear and say;
" Your Gonna' Die" ,
to N00Bs or their fawning girls, right off the bat .. .. .. ..
I wait till lunch.
well not this weekend, a pass on mother's day it is crowded every where on mothers day
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Big Mike "First Come First Served" has always been the accepted norm and I agree with you.
That being said I would usually offer to trail a rope up for them.
Courtesy pays. We were all noobs once.
What attitude from other climbers worked best for you back then?
Now the important question. Is "Prority" any thing like poison ivy?
Cause that stuff sux and I don't want to get it..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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most new climbers come from the gym so banging the shiet out of something on TR and getting everyone in the group to is perfectly "normal" for them ... there isnt much of a "lead and follow" mentality where you lead, yr partner follows and its ready for the next climber ...
because of this gym start IMO there is a lack of outdoor ethics and respect for the route and other climbing parties ... now this isnt always the case and most things work out fine usually, but it happens often enough.
Exactly Eric. On point.
"We top rope here. If you want to lead, go somewhere else!"
So, like Mike, I also became a total dick and soloed a couple more routes. And then (confession time) I stole his Swiss Army penknife. If that person was you, no, you can't have it back.
Hahahahahaha!! As if!! Lol. That's like skiers and snowboarders getting pissed when i ride down their lines on my sled... Lol First Come First Served!
The rockfall can be forgiven – we’ve all dislodged a rock accidentally or witnessed rocks falling in climbing areas like this. What we thought was unacceptable was the laughter and jokes that immediately followed the fall, and the further three rockfalls that were created by the group as they top roped the route again and again.
I know that the incident didn’t involve all of the university group. Speaking to another team from that group, we learned that these were inexperienced climbers, and they advised their fellow students that they shouldn’t be climbing in such a loose area of the crag.
WOW!!! I'd be super pissed! I would be saying something to those people's face for sure.
I no longer go to the Gunks but even before any bolted anchors, other parties dropping a rope on you, was a constant problem. This went on for years, so much so that it became a regular part of the climbing experience. A long stern, critical look at all who past to elicit any response,
" What Are You Looking At?" was the sign that the person might be rude.
A Rude MoFoe, can and will get you hurt , ruin your day or your life;+< by dropping things on your head.
Been there before.... "Rope!" "Hey dumbass you just dropped a rope on my partner who is leading this climb."
"Oh..... Sorry."
Big Mike "First Come First Served" has always been the accepted norm and I agree with you.
That being said I would usually offer to trail a rope up for them.
Courtesy pays. We were all noobs once.
What attitude from other climbers worked best for you back then?
Totally Phil. I botched this interaction for sure, I will make an effort to have more tact in the future. And prority is a b!tch. Watch out for that sh!t.. Lol
I talked to my buddy Dean about this yesterday. He said he was also told leaders take precedence when he started climbing ten years before I was born. He said it was because leading and following are much faster, but this was before everyone started lowering instead of bringing the second up.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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The down side to being a lead climber BITD was we were a fringe element of crazy dirtbags that society in general had no use for. The up side was never having anyone climbing above you.
These days with the wide acceptability that climbing has attained through the use of it to sell everything from Cadillacs to Panty Shields you might even make a living climbing if you could just get on a lead amongst the mass proletariat.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Philo
You're right about the Few who led - putting it on the edge, the fringe element.
That is a rough looking case of Poison Ivy! My wife gets that sort of reaction. She goes on a steroid treatment , Prednasone,? I Think?!that sure is a flaming red. . .
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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The only time i would ever make a stink about top ropeing tying up a climb would be if they were top ropeing the 1st pitch of a multi pitch climb.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 05:14pm PT
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Lol Jefe.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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I have great faith in fools - self-confidence my friends will call it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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The only time i would ever make a stink about top ropeing tying up a climb would be if they were top ropeing the 1st pitch of a multi pitch climb.
What if a visiting climber would like to do some of the local single pitch classics and they are all being gangbanged?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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It sucks but what are you going to do? on multi pitch you can ask them. Are you guys going to do the climb? can I play through? single pitch if they are camped out you are screwed. If they have a bunch of ropes hanging but are not climbing on all of them you can usually get on whatever they are not actually climbing. I pissed a guy off once by pulling his rope so I could lead. He had 3 ropes hanging for a party of two and they were on one of the other ropes..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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Not the first time i 've heard that story in this thread.... Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 08:04pm PT
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Sounds like there's a story there Jim. Care to part with it ? ;)
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