Alien cams, safety ...

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
DAN DUANE

climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2015 - 11:24am PT
Okay, another Rip Van Winkle deal: rummaging through my rack, I seem to have a LOT of Aliens. Some are first generation (as in, pretty damn old), but quite a few were purchased in 2002/2003. From what I've read about the recall, I'm guessing they're all safe to use. (none have the tell-tale dimple of the bad batch). But I noticed a thread on here about some non-recall Aliens faring poorly in testing. That, added to the fact that CCH doesn't seem to maintain a web presence, or any way to contact anybody, is making me a little nervous. Anybody know the story, here? On whether or not there's reason to doubt Aliens that do not fall into the original recall parameters?
couchmaster

climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 11:43am PT
DAN DUANE SAID:
"Okay, another Rip Van Winkle deal: rummaging through my rack, I seem to have a LOT of Aliens. Some are first generation (as in, pretty damn old), but quite a few were purchased in 2002/2003. From what I've read about the recall, I'm guessing they're all safe to use. (none have the tell-tale dimple of the bad batch). But I noticed a thread on here about some non-recall Aliens faring poorly in testing. That, added to the fact that CCH doesn't seem to maintain a web presence, or any way to contact anybody, is making me a little nervous. Anybody know the story, here? On whether or not there's reason to doubt Aliens that do not fall into the original recall parameters?"

CCH who? Sorry, it brought a chuckle. This Cmac post will start you on your journey to knowledge. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1132391/Colorado-Custom-Hardware-Alien-Cams-for-Sale
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Apr 27, 2015 - 11:45am PT
CCH folded after the founder died. Fixe bought up the remnants.

CCH did offer pull testing of all aliens. I sent mine in despite none being in the recall window. One Red alien came back with a fresh cable loop and zero explanation, so I assume it died it testing. My advice is to really consider tossing them if they are >10 years old. Mine have all been relegated to the backup aid rack with only the offset aliens being taken on the last couple walls.
DAN DUANE

climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
Thanks for this. This is exactly the kind of wisdom I was looking for. It's a little painful to imagine chucking a complete double set, but not nearly as painful as imagining cam failure.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Apr 27, 2015 - 03:05pm PT
You can give them a good hard static bounce test that will generate more force than you should ever put on them from a leader fall. Can also get them reslung if you're worried about the slings.
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
Apr 27, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Totally agree with above. That is what I have done.
Fish_Products

Big Wall climber
FishProducts.com
Apr 27, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
Yer Gonna Die....


See us on the web at:
http://www.FishProducts.com
http://fishproductsblog.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/FishBigWallGear
couchmaster

climber
Apr 27, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
DD followed up and spoke thus:
"It's a little painful to imagine chucking a complete double set, but not nearly as painful as imagining cam failure."

Whoh whoh whoh there now. No need for haste. Tossing cams out?!!!! Heresy! In my view the Alien cams were damn fine product that had some QC issues. The dimpled ones were a subbed out job that were dipped in water to rapidly cool them after brazing and that extra step caused the recall. Lack of process control exacerbated it. Like Moof I sent in all of mine in 2006 to have CCH test them - consisting of:
1- Clear
1- Purple
1- Yellowish/Orange
1 -Orange
2- Red
2- Yellow
2- Grey
2- Green
2- Blue
2- Black

Offsets

2-Red/yellow
1-Yellow/Green
1-Gree/Blue
1-Blue/black)

One, a green, came back different. They never said why or what occurred. Their lack of transparency on that leading me to trust them even less. However, when they were going out of business I hoovered up a bunch more of them, not knowing that they would be made again (and in fact by 2 quality companies: Fixe and Totem). I climb on the CCH cams all the time, and I've since worn a blue and the green one out. The first 4 small ones to about Red are my go-to cams. I have no plans to change a thing. Still love them. Given that anyone who would buy them would know the potential issues with them, I think you can honestly put them on Ebay if you are not interested in them. I have some extras but can't find it within my heart to part with them yet.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 27, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
Bounce test them for sure. Friend of mine went to hang on one back then and it exploded and sent him head first into a pillar. He was incredibly lucky to have lived. Make sure your soldering is solid.
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta