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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Very impressive!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 20, 2015 - 11:10pm PT
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Hey, I used to be able to do that. But I never climbed anything harder than 12b. I'm more impressed by the younger climbers' abilities to translate training into performance. Free your mind, and your ass will follow.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Apr 20, 2015 - 11:55pm PT
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Oh great. I wasn't feeling inadequate enough :-)
Curt
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 01:38pm PT
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I used to be able to do that. But I never climbed anything harder than 12b
This is an ongoing discussion: How does bodyweight training relate to climbing prowess?
Sixty years ago when I started gymnastics I was convinced that the former led directly to the latter, and by the early 1960s I had left gymnastics and concentrated on bodyweight exercises that seemed to correspond more directly with rock climbing. Over the years I saw less and less correspondence and more and more of a relation with genetics and anatomy; young kids, skinny and underdeveloped, walking up to the rock and doing a move near the top of the scale. Lightness, small strong fingers, relative dimensions of arms and legs and torso, etc. counted for more than rigorous training that admittedly put on extra weight in muscle tissue.
But by that time I was enjoying bodyweights so much I kept it up as an alternative to climbing.
I'll bet there are more young climbers doing 5.13 and above who cannot do one-arms than there are those who do one-arms and climb at those levels.
Apples and oranges, although very specific training can improve the quality of even those near the top.
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jstan
climber
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Apr 21, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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When I look at how the very youngest are training I have to wonder. Arthritis? Gosh awful arthritis when they reach thirty?
http://www.aaos.org/news/aaosnow/may09/research4.asp
Investigations show new link between trauma and arthritis
By Kathleen Louden
OREF-funded study indicates different processes are at work
Posttraumatic arthritis (PTA) can develop after acute joint injury, a meniscal or ligament tear, or an intra-articular fracture, even with optimal treatment. Despite its frequency—an estimated 10 percent to 15 percent of patients diagnosed as having osteoarthritis actually have PTA—this painful condition has not attracted much attention from researchers.
Joseph Borrelli Jr., MD, with residents at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center. Courtesy of OREF
One investigator who is focused on PTA is Joseph Borrelli Jr., MD, a trauma surgeon and professor and chairman of orthopaedic surgery at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center in Dallas.
“Ten years ago, the issue of posttraumatic arthritis wasn’t really being addressed by anyone,” Dr. Borrelli said. “The mechanism by which it occurs still has not been fully delineated.”
Investigators widely believe that joint trauma results in primary cartilage damage, which is one factor that leads to irreversible tissue degeneration. It is unclear, however, whether these changes to the articular cartilage result directly from mechanical trauma or from a process in the cartilage such as cellular death.
With research funding from the Orthopaedic Research and Education Foundation (OREF), Dr. Borrelli developed an animal model of PTA so he could study in vivo cartilage changes after mechanical injury. His preliminary findings may elucidate the biochemical mechanism connecting joint injury and development of arthritis.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 03:50pm PT
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What I see, John, are an awful lot of boulderers, many young, jumping off high boulder problems onto mats. Now mats help, but that is still trauma that I suspect will lead to arthritis later in life. Too bad top-roping has been placed in a non-ethical category.
I have had back problems due to jumping from low boulders many years ago, and mats would have been beneficial, but there is still a lot of jarring impact with mats. The nets that circus performers use would be better!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Apr 21, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
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Wild!
Check out those biceps!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 08:01pm PT
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Thanks, Clint. I thought someone might post that.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 21, 2015 - 08:36pm PT
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One arm pull ups.
Sh!t .... everyone was doing those in the 80's.
But women ..... very rare.
But it's an almost useless tool.
It's way better to grow some nice juicy carrots .....
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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It's way better to grow some nice juicy carrots .....
Or throw crumbs in the water for ducks.
;>)
Here's an interesting comment by Aleister Crowley, talking about his good friend Oscar Eckenstein and their climbing in the late 19th century:
"He [Eckenstein] was a finished athlete; his right arm in particular was so strong that he had only to get a couple of fingers on to a sloping ledge of an overhanging rock above his head and he could draw himself slowly up by that alone . . . He was rather short and sturdily built."
"His climbing was invariably clean, orderly and intelligible; mine can hardly be described as human. His movements were a series, mine were continuous; he used definite muscles, I used my whole body".
http://www.johngill.net
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:26pm PT
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Great thread! I used to envy those pianists and climbers with long spans, but as I gained more experience climbing and playing the piano, I learned that my short, broad sausage fingers and relatively short limbs gave me more advantages than disadvantages.
John
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 29, 2015 - 10:07am PT
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So John, ya think Alex could do a front lever if she put her mind to it? Or can she already do one? Your hat wants to know! :)
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2015 - 05:17pm PT
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I suspect females are getting closer to front levers, but as Largo says, No cigar yet. They do back levers, planches, muscle-ups, etc. but the female anatomy causes problems with front levers. Nevertheless, I'm sure within a few years some will cross the threshold and pull it off.
It has little to do with climbing, where strong, small fingers and a light and squirmy body will do the trick.
Pay attention, BURT BRONSON!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Aug 29, 2015 - 11:16pm PT
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... the female anatomy causes problems with front levers. I can attest to that.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Aug 29, 2015 - 11:56pm PT
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On the strength/technique point, the best climbers of either sex obviously have both (watching Tommy Caldwell climb on the Dawn Wall was an inspiring example) but good women climbers often give examples of just how far technique can substitute strength. I remember a woman friend of mine just absolutely floating Outer Limits. The men in the group were cruising it, too, but with a decidedly different, more physical, style.
Now that I'm getting older, I think I'll need to learn to climb like a woman, heh, heh.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2015 - 11:18am PT
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Excellent. I was hoping someone would find a video clip.
Question answered.
;>)
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