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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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but at times you have to be smart about it.
I agree. No point in placing bolts in odd places or taking unnecessary risk with easy top access.
Panther peak is a cool place. I've camped around there a number of times. Panther Pass & other spots nearby in winter.
There is a sweet sheltered grove of trees just east of the summit tower that would be a cool place to camp. No water. Maybe melt snow in early season.
The peak is about 4 miles hike from Wolverton parking area. Trail camps about 3 miles away at Merhten creek on the High Sierra Trail.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Apr 21, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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Cosmiccragsman,
LMAO, what a classic photo. I have felt the buzz in the air before, but not like that.
The golfer Lee Trevino was hit by lightning two times on the golf course. Later he said he always brings a 2 iron, because even God can't hit a 2 iron.
Thanks to all for the input on another great Tokopah thread
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Great Job.....
V...I don't worry about how the bolts got there, just that they are there when you need one. Its all good.
Can't wait till I can hike out there...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Whoot WHOOT
(where did my 1st post go? ho to anther thread?)
well here is where i had meant to put it so
THE best TR's for sure !
big bump
BIGGER THAN THAT
Icey why youthe best and most inspiring TR's they remind that Every thing does not fit in the frame but what counts is the overall excellent climbing reports
thank you
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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First two pitches were bolted on lead, the last two were all face and we had no idea if it would go or where,
We could have don't this on lead but it would be dumb because we took the mystery out of it by TRing to find something that would go.
we would create a bolted clusterf*#k on that face, so I am sure we did the right thing
V, I have faith in your guy's ability to do some rad GU biz!
Really curious now, what did the difficulty check in at on those pitches?
I don't think you guys would have made a clusterfuk. But you probably would have had to go in multiple trips.
Were you concerned about it being a bolt ladder to nowhere or just having suboptimal clips for the difficulty? Both? I bet you would have done great going GU.
You guys are climbing strong, have fun with that stuff!!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:12am PT
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Munge, the third pitch was 5.11 and pretty much all face and the 4th pitch was easy for the first half and then 5.10+ or 5.11 towards the top.
On the first trip out there we followed the cracks ground up and placed a couple bolts to connect them. The top of the second pitch ended with no pro under a roof that we couldn't see past. We were out of time so we drilled and anchor, rapped down and went home not knowing if it would go or dead end there. From the ground and other viewpoints it looked pretty hopeless but the first two pitches were so good that I wanted to at least look one more time.
Vitaliy and I went back a few weeks later and, after discussing it, decided to rap in to see if it would be a waste of time so we could start another route if necessary. One 70m barely reached from the summit to the top of P2. I rapped in first and went the totally wrong way into a bunch of lichen and crap. Vitaliy went next and broke a hold that ended in a blank wall. It took us 4 tries to see if it would go and by then we figured it would be kinda dumb to walk to the base and put the bolts on the last two pitches ground up. At the same time, the edges are so good that it would have potentially gone on hooks so that was kind of a bummer.
In the end the final product is awesome and I'm glad we didn't try bolting our first three attempts at the top 70+ meters. We both enjoy ground up way more than anything else but it's just how it worked out for the top of this route.
On the other hand, Burchey and I didn't even bring a drill on Rack 'em Up Reid and wished we had one in a few spots. I've never done a new route without having a bolt kit in tow, that was a committing feeling!
P2 ended pretty much straight above Adam, at the right side of those roofs.
This is looking down at the section above the roofs, it didn't look promising...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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potentially gone on hooks
yeah, you guys had me thinking about the hook potential because of the edges. I had visions of soyo.
Nice climbing guys!!!
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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Looks like some good routes.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 12:04pm PT
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Well done, you guys!
John
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 21, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
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I would post more....if I didn't want to save anything original for a an actual report. And if I had quick internet :)
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 21, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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Nice!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Apr 21, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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ADAM ADAM CLIMB FASTER MY HAIR IS BUZZING!!!
I laughed hard...but only because no one got fried. :-)
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Awesome! Well done boys!
Dan, ahem, I'm still waiting for my phone call.....
:P
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 23, 2015 - 11:23pm PT
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Wow, that line looks really good. Congrats.
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