beta for the freerider

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nopantsben

climber

europe

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2015 - 03:36am PT

The monster OW:
Should I climb to the top of the ear and then left into the monster, or traverse into the monster from way lower and use an intermediate belay halfway up the monster? (If the option skipping the ear involves a bunch of #4 and #5 camalot climbing I'd rather skip that. I am not worried about 5.11d face climbing.)

Is the rack one bd camalot 6, one 5 (new) and a few finger sized pieces?
where is the 5 section?
I am a bad ow climber and suck at #4 and #5.

The roof traverse: Rack? QD's only?

Burke OW: Should I be worried or can I lieback it until it gets easier?
Is it a good idea to bring two 6es for this pitch?

thanks!:)

mikeyschaefer

climber

Sport-o-land

Apr 14, 2015 - 08:07am PT

Find James when you get to the valley and ask him. He's probably got better beta than anyone else.

steveA

Trad climber

Wolfeboro, NH

Apr 14, 2015 - 08:40am PT

Have fun Ben!

Grippa

Trad climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Apr 14, 2015 - 09:20am PT

Buddy of mine took a 50fter on the burke OW. He said he wanted two #6's...

cultureshock

Trad climber

Mountain View

Apr 14, 2015 - 09:42am PT

The lower traverse to the Monster is easier. If doing it this way you want to belay midway.

The #5's section is easy and brief. Just one spot it really narrows down and a #5 fits. I think its right above the midway belay. Most of the pitch is #6 or tipped out #6

The #4's and #5's section at the end of the monster can be avoided by going right to a belay on the Salathe. I believe most people do it this way. I've gone straight up and there is another section of 4's and 5's

I don't have the rack beta for the low traverse to the monster but I'll ask a friend.

You want two #6's for the Monster.

The SB has a harder move at the bottom of the OW than anything on the monster. Many people layback through this and get in higher.

You only need a 3, 4, and #5 for the OW section of the SB. You need more gear for the bottom half of the pitch. It's steep off fingers.

I don't even understand how you could even place two #6's on the SB.

Luke

If you want more details shoot me an email. Have fun!

RP3

Big Wall climber

Twain Harte

Apr 14, 2015 - 09:46am PT

Yo Ben!

-Knowing your skillset, I suggest traversing into the Monster from above.

-The roof traverse should also not be too bad for you. I don't remember what gear my partner needed when he did the traverse. It was not much, if anything.

Crush it!

cultureshock

Trad climber

Mountain View

Apr 14, 2015 - 10:41am PT

Yeah you want a few cams for the traverse pitch to Round Table Ledge. I think its either .75 or #1 at the start (maybe both) and then a small finger sized cam (red c3?). Then a bunch of fixed stuff. Maybe 5-8 draws.

I think that you can place some finger sized stuff at the end after all the pitons. Maybe a nut or two if you want more gear at the end of the traverse.

Roger is probably right that the upper monster traverse could be easier for you. There are some hard (11+) undercling moves, but less offwidthing.

Luke