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Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 21, 2016 - 12:37am PT
what the double hockey stick, without an 'H' abs no 'E'!

Right - Now,
for the last day of the climbing season 2016,
-a season of slim few ascents-.
, two weeks past day light savings time change,
we had a gasp, real leaves down, Indian Summer for one day.

My family trip report.

The weekends' event is better when the weather is freakishly warm.
The boy n girl that I'm the bumper of love for have this club combining
All sorts of activities into one event.

My kids love it
they have to , if they want to do anything.
It is the only show in town.

The times are very different then even a few years ago. never mind
40 or 50 years ago. There are very few things to do now a days.
The kids themselves, their sense of drive, is stunted by lack of diversity of choice.

Back in the day - The arrival at the highest honors, used to require toastmasters ,
Public speaking to go with service & extricuricular excellence.
The Sports teams had their place.
And could occasionally cross over, but
only in outstanding cases of leadership qualities made the "Honor Society"

Anyway in all Ways thanks be >> for team Evolution!

and the achievements that Led to their achieving next level,
they won a golden ticket.

Did I mentioned that I failed soccer dad,
as you, mfm, were saying
Don't volunteer !
The soccer dad with the minivan was gno-me.
I'd didn't, volunteer,

we go as a family unit of four,
often five with the dog.
No extra room in the car.

I could be counted on to be there,
Bring yourself and your kids.
I'm bringing mine.

And

my ankles are not for kicking balls.
Most of the other dads were 25.

Then, for all the other options, track was even hard to
get a toe hold in.




Actually , We had known only to well that T-Ball ( so leading to baseball )
was the only choice.
We had tried hard going to the games with them as toddlers
getting the kids to try, both hated it.
My daughter only played because she wanted to please daddy0

3 years later, The boy cried and cried,
He was ok at hitting and catching at home.
But freaked, he didn't want wait in line for the field day when everyone plays.

The Tee ball really is the gateway to the right crowd, . , ..

" you must work for "So 'N So" - how's that?"
"What pew do you sit in at the drive th thru?

"Why no pew thank you" ,

is no answer that goes over well
Some times I say I'm a Buhdist.


There is so much to the whole:
as American as Baseball and Apple Pie.

We had nine or ten different clubs to choose from. Now there isn't much to choose,
So this high tech highend Lego robot fork lift type device game is riveting .( sigh )
(w/computer ) build/program is activity is only half the program.

From before the start of school in the fall
the kids are working the various Ideas
running down. Sponsors printing information.
Offering to volunteer !?..
Best is the stroll , a walk with elderly around the mall



The judging includes the whole robot obstical time trials, thing.
that is only half the game.
There is a completely contrived but demanding
set of requirements that need to have been
met that the teams have been working towards.
Some teams for years.


So there is a presentation and display of some focused project
A project that shows progresses , creative team work with both
some successful and some un-successful work on display.

There is an expected social justice or good deeds these often overlap.

A social component the sort that makes a difference and the moments of proof
Of success can be measured in a needy communities benefit .

After all that the parents and sponsors have second awards dinner . . .

my kids blew off the recovery dinner tonight. they did well
Only 6 of 20 teams move on from this stage ,
the 2 teams from town pulled it off.

Yippee !

The math left my ability weeks into the second Y'R , this is the 4th.
The vararious regions are, from all appearances, in the same boat, no other options
It s Lego Robotics, only game in town!





I've a wife who that I think is cute,
Who spelled It for me but it looked wrong; " divorce"
This is his wife. He REALLY is annoying!!!!!!

Lego Rboticzzs, zzzZZZzzz
]is a terrible waste of a
sunny Saturday 70 degree day in late NovemberSomeone's having fun.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 04:41am PT
Crosby Still Gnashes His Teeth, Though

Teach the children well
Your small rock hell
Is not for them small fry

And you of silvering hair
Why should you care
For it's a new day

And when they've grown
Standing on their own
You can thank Legos...

David Crosby & Jerry Garcia - Laughing 1970
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB4hrtR2PuE

I used to fish for rainbows.
Now I hunt them with a camera.
Shoot and release only.
I saw none yesterday, however...it's still raining off and on this morning.

Oh, and good morning, all.
Now, if only I could remember my name...I'd be the only one to know it.
[Click to View YouTube Video]But if I could only remember my name...I'd be pretty darn worthless.

What's goin' on, zBrown?

Don't be stranger.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 05:17am PT
View from Mt. Clark by Jim Shirley.
1980s solo ascent NW Ridge.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Nov 21, 2016 - 05:49am PT
In this Afterlife dream

On this morning reprieve
Between coffee and news
I can only watch the weather
Or it gives me the blues

There's two workers to train
In an hour or two
With some old hands to teach them
If I don't strain my brain

So I'll finish my coffee
And wash out my mug
And attend to my business
Like a mindless lil' bug

As l try to stay simple
In my simpleton way
So be safe in your endeavors
And have a good day

-bushman

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 09:55am PT
Hey there, Bushman! Time to rise and shine!
Duh duh duh duh du-u-h-h duh,
Duh duh duh duh duh...

[Click to View YouTube Video]

You probably want to watch this first to explain the other video.[Click to View YouTube Video]What's in YOUR DOG'S dinner bowl?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
http://calgaryherald.com/life/swerve/a-mysterious-calgary-connection-to-the-big-eye-paintings

Tim Burton's film about Margaret Keane took years and years to finish.
It's periodicity is every bit as good as that of Julia, the film about the French chef lady.
Keane's paintings should be in the Trump White House.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 12:32pm PT
This was a Bruce Hamilton creation, a geodesic "globe" made from two hemispheres of tent fabric and extra-long corded aluminum folding poles.

Bucky loved it.https://www.thrillist.com/gear/north-face-history-11-facts-and-trivia-about-the-band
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
Go to Jay Souza's FB page to catch the story behind this fine shot.

Jay is also a Taco poster.

Very nice share, Jay. Thx.
Mouse from Merced.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
Entra-crapeur.

Euphemism for junkman coined by Bob Kamps.

After Bob left teaching he bought and sold garage sale finds, the contents of storage lockers, and an occasional estate.
It kept him both physically and mentally active.
He was exceptionally good at it...still a bit of a legend in that game.
--Bonnie Kamps


WE ARE ALL BIG BOB FANS, FAN!

Happy TG from the Flames.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 22, 2016 - 01:45am PT
I do like me a Few BOB z
I wish that I had known that Bob better,
I met him a few times, enough to say hi,
The way it often worked
we climbed in small groups Spread out around a few close zones.
Five or more of the best climbs would be set up.
with a group like that along that way for the visiting Kamps,
he got shown a fine time.
I most recall walking across a Main Street together, walking
into the store. (Rock n Snow) saying 'look what I found in the parking lot'.


It fun too, . . . . ! . .... all day that sat there?


It is fun to know ,
I did not know that he and I share the picker thing.

I liked to do that estate sales gig.
The wife had always had a place to stay,, Other than very 'tony' doorman cc buildings ,
a bed room in the house of a collector hoarder picker, property owner.

Girl friend had skills! She knew antiques and chachky values.
I was as much interested in the Quilt as my girl when she was under it.
My girl got a kick out of my intrest in quilts. I will never tell if
it was a love ploy or if I care about quilts




Old Elizabeth Englman! RIP,
Liz the mother 4 in the 40&50s
the calm soul who was the
witness to the damage and pointless 60s has left us but she
as a woman had also acquired a few 'valuable' collections,
like toasters from the oldest types( 30 some toasters 1500$. ??)
The Quilt collection significantly more impressive other stuff to.
also the house had a proffesional sewing room on the lower level
Old Liz was disappointed that I had come along. One of her sons
just a few Y'Rs older than I & more biker, moved in and sniffing around,
when I was a regular guest.


I like a born again named Danald Perry a lot right now.
He and I have gone around just a bit
He is trying to secure or he has secured his legacy
Donald has been climbing exclusively at Millbrook
(With a few trips to the valley) for 40 years.
He is one when he climbed in a zone that zone got climbed.
I did some of his climbs, with him some things he had not climbed
and I climbed all over things when I climbed them too.


I am not Donald Perry I'm not Rich Romano ?
No I am not anyone with my climbing accomplishments
Acknowledged that has to be fine or I can try to change it.




This and that having to go and come back
Trash it up and I'll take it back




Well I'm back
As I said the guide books Are the work of one man who omitted and included what he wanted,



Maybe taking the time to read what I wrote before responding would have been helpful? Following the logic of what’s happening here, I’m going to need to update the NJ Guidebook and create a MP page solely dedicated to Watchung for all the TR fist ascents I’ve put up there over the years. Because, as you know, there’s plenty of unclaimed and unnamed rock in between the established routes. Doesn't matter if it's leadable. Doesn't matter if there's an actual sequence of moves. Just so long as it's rock without a name that I can drop a rope on from up top and find a way up, it's good. Now, am I right or am I out of my depth?


I've said this to you both privately and publicly go ahead
Get The Cliffs that run along Diamond hill road between Rt 22 and Rt 78
On the New Providence town line opened to climbing .take all the credit
name all the climbs You can use the guide that I sent you to pine paddies too.

Remember everyone from Russ Raffa & Lynn Hill , to Jeff Gruenberg ,D Hauser
As well as William Shockley & Victor Benesh have also climbed there.

All of the main wall has been "lead" ,a rope ascent I know you can't imagine but that ledge had grass and 4-5 stands of trees scrub black Birtch, eastern cotton wood, a weed of a tree,
that sends that white fluff into the air. And so onto the holds.
There's at least one old guy left , big Dave ? I've seen his art on the wall of the chatham gym.


Most soled or climbed without hanging,

or climbed in the dirt of the low off the ground traverses
that is 5.13.

That you can not imagine please do good job.


Shoot maybe you are right about that ? Just know that I want to take the time to read up on what has been said so far.




stand on his side as the argument forms.
A very hard or very obvious
Great line might be a word
Of mouth climb among 5 people then lost.

Ive talked
to a few of the old time climbers who banged pins.
That would tell me of lines to look for.
You had to know how they climbed to know what to look for.

I've banged pins, cleaned a line of holds and placements climbed a few variations And never admitted that it was me.I have been rebuffed by the Weak sauce admins for adding

My routes.Short of doing what Donald Perry has done, laid claim to his legacy There is little that can be done,

As proof here in all this long winded bullshjt is this :"Sticky Vicky" was led this year with a nest of pre-placed rps and filed ball nut. It's now called "In Diana Jones".
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 06:07am PT
Mono mini-gallery.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Nov 22, 2016 - 06:17am PT
Peace on Earth, Sir Orf
or
Ireallygottapeea

Oh man a god or not
God mop to swab the deck
I'm not talkin' right now
I'm not a mob oh heck

See you two cards an' I'm off
Top o the mornin' are not
You don't wanna know
'Bout the cheap mistletoe
And what can quadruple the lot

So speak to me now
oh naw
Never mind what bee it saw
Sack o the lump
Hit a speech bump
Sap the piñata
Spill o tomata

This is what happens
No need to explain
Unplugging the left from the
Right side of my brain

Hope you are well
Or at least you believe
It to be presently the case
And a fact o fact
The matter with me
Is occasionally
While attempting a joke
I fall on my face

It's an occupational hazard
As I occupy this space
Though happiness might bring
Dogs to your couch
But not likely good timing
Like the flowers in spring

-bushman
11/22/2016
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 06:27am PT
Merced mini-gallery.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 09:08am PT
For the benefit of Mr. Gnome:

tchotch·ke - a small object that is decorative rather than strictly functional; a trinket.

Church keys, not tchotchkes.


And Sir Bushman:

For to answer your vague question about our health, speaking "for myself alone":

in·ca·pac·i·tat·ed - deprived of strength or power.

My left knee is swollen and sore. I cannot walk far. Don't know what the "whatever" happened, but I'm incapacitated.

I love the fog. It's cat's feet don't scare me none, no way, no how.

Foggy day mini-gallery.From the Sonora newspaper.
http://www.uniondemocrat.com/

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
I've been in fogland all day and did just wake up...et's 2:30!!

Slept like the Sleepy Time bear for some reason.Potatoes and onions and chili from a can on top...gourmet fixin's for a former C4 cave dweller, but the knock-out punch for this old man with his low tolerance for cold.

The blankets were piled high and it's not even Thanksgiving yet.

Meanwhile, the Ondracles steamroller just keeps sliding up the Dawn Wall, the sky getting slightly larger with each succeeding pitch, the excitement palpable for any who care about this sort of thing.

It seems like eons ago that we were reading about speculation that one of TM's progeny would be clinging to razor blades crossing the King Swing with no swinging, only hands and feet.

And no one in his correct mind saw the possibility of the Wall of the Early Morning Light as anything more than a fluke and the ultimate in the un-freeable.

How friable was our judgement, so full of holes, with no knowledge of sticky rubber, no inkling of climbing gyms, and little regard for the training involved.

And, yes, the fog was denser, the women looser, the dope legendary. It always seems to go that way, don't it?

Legends live on and more are created. And the oldsters nod and chew their cud. It is a pattern in humanity's progress.

Back and fill, back and fill, burying successive generations in their own version of truth.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 03:11pm PT
Maybe something more uplifting?
Yeah, DMT, got the knee blues. Never thought it might come to this, thinking of more rectifying surgery, now. I can't abide being a cripple or in a chair.

I'd rather not, anyway.

It may come to that...I'm just me and hate the idea of being STUCK someplace because I'm incapacitated. But we need to bite the bullet on occasion.

Maybe nature intends injuries and so on to get us softened up for the inevitable, so that we are glad to scoot through the next door when the reaper beckons.

I have not seen zBrown post here in some time. I hope things are well in Chula, buddy.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 05:10pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 07:05pm PT
Sunset mini-gallery.
zBrown

Ice climber
Nov 22, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
OK, one more then we gotta go.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=539369&tn=19580#msg2909447




Third Avenue Blind


SHORT WAVE, AIRCRAFT, BROADCAST - No ST








Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 23, 2016 - 02:20am PT
I had intended to go all tchotchke from the church key mouse -or- church mouse key
Key Church mouse but. . . .



Well, mahn _ - strange thing there,,



came to see a post from zB!

glad to see a chupacabra !
Is that a Tchotchke ,? No, that is a czaczko



there was a post derailed can best describe what happened . I can't remember a name.
That made me foggy on details I know for sure but want to spell the names correctly
I am going to have to find the whole thing just to regain . . . . . Merd !

the name , Dag nabbit !
Big Doug. . ? He has been distinctive in his presence since The late 60s and has had mutton chops that distinctive look, a giant of a man 66 or so he was a plodding climber.
He had a mention as the old friend of. Chip.....? (Sulahn? Colorado Rockies )
Nope not coming back!
I've got his name . . . ? Tip of my fryed mind!

So!, haha ,M posted the videos below as much out of total frustration as anything else.
When a name of the one climber who I'm aware of who has not stopped and never climbed
much harder than 5.7, but has been around since the late '60s
Doug Alcock, how could I forget?


Enjoy the videos with the volume turned off 1st.oh? I see I've covered that. , .

a copy paste ,!, ,-something that has been acting up, from the thread of the a copy
I love the Above posters moniker, Nick Danger ; The Private Eye Fom Firesign Thearter !
The works of BEP can be found as a group of 39 or so.
I recomend starting with the ones of shortest duration 1st to gain some appreciation
for David's trajectory as a film maker.

Realize that the early head cam videos are not that far a cry from some of
the polished videos he has shared.
( took on a whole new meaning, that sentence it did!)
I have not spoken to Mr Linnett, other than here.
all of his videos to this point have things that can be said about them,
the commonality between them is instantly apparent, they are un-common in their excellence.

I always feel it is better to Look at a video, without sound to
have the most objective opinion. When I have looked over most of the Video
I go back. For the most part the music has not been a distraction
[Click to View YouTube Video]





One of his most viewed I think
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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