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hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Sep 30, 2016 - 02:20pm PT
notice the detents on the arms next to his/her noggin.
there's room to bow head, droop the rack, and match biceps
performing a hanging bivi directly below extended extremities. the arrangement led me to take many frames of the posterior
in an attempt to sort out an enigmatic portrait. oops


edit: nope. rests chin in the pocket. i'm a failure

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
"Come closer, hooblie. Closer. That's it."

What did you drop this time? Alice D?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2016 - 05:40pm PT
Jim's pith helmet.

An Oceansider.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2016 - 06:10pm PT

Might as well do some advertising. These are the claims made by Subaru.The very first morning of Facelift, one of the four vehicles provided by Subaru for use by the Facelift was involved in a non-fatal, maybe even a non-injury accident, when a bicyclist was hit.

Not clear as to the details. The bike was brought down to the weigh-in booth and left, for some reason. It looked at first like it belonged there. It had a severely bent front rim but that was the only damage. It disappeared later on, probably locked up as physical evidence.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
The morning after the rain.
That may be Miss Gaby with her back to us.
This is right next to the Village Store by the bathrooms.
A restoration area.
On the other side of the breezeway there is a sidewalk leading to the shuttle stop
and this bird's nest was just sitting on top of one of the lamps along the walk.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Oct 1, 2016 - 01:23am PT




quote | flag I admit I had to go check myself. Complete thread hi-Jack & drift, excuse me.
As per True Grip/(the crack), I'm pretty sure that was a long time aid climb, with some fixed and some pin scars. then free'd by P Ramins, before the pins were removed I think but do not know by "Hot Henry"
who Showed us all how to climb like mad men.

There are almost no pre 1935 records of named climbs but the Mohonk & Cliff House, employees & guests had certainly scaled some things.
There was a Swiss Tutor who was engaged to teach the children in Tuxedo Ny.
who was a climber and was active in the 20s
I can't lay my hands on the source, right now, it comes from the history of Wall Street banker/ scientist
Originator of the "Rad Lab". . . ,?!
Full brain fart here. . . Edit - Alfred Loomis! . . . . Yikes,...
(I'll add the books title later, or someone else can, it a good read. If history and science are of intrest)


amazon.com/Tuxedo-Park-Street-...

That book is a kind of homage written by a relative but in my opinion the better place to start than
the other books on the topic. . . .

There is no climbing per say in the book and only scant references to the tutors exploits.
In an ardouios search one can find mentions of Climbing & injuries / accidents in the Hudson High lands from as far back as the 18880s in NYC news paper archives.



Anyway,

Bill Shockly is listed as Fritz's second for both Rear Exposure
and Minnie Belle, in 1946. While lost to the fog of time, I think there was a flake inside the start of Minnie Belle, where a pin was - that was the result of a previous attempt( Krist & Wally R?)
The way that I recall it - it was after a very fast FA of The Rear Exposure,
(I think there is a story there too) Fritz went to just take a look, resulting in his typical near solo FA,
of what,then, was to be considered one of the Scariest, hard climbs in that era.












They have clearly not left the townhouseit remains as the most endearing feature on the pile.
That line, not the easiest, it is very secure mostly a walk,
I have abounded it over the last five years.
Hard white streaks, have now grown to regular yearly perches. for fledglings.
The potential for them Boyd's to make the cliff foul, as fowl can o-well?
I hope they don't make it beyond climbable, it seems very unlikely.
I'm watching the winter will be telling. I trundled some. . .,
There has been a die off and no road kill.
There have been major changes to the area, then lightening strike and fire on top.
There is a draught here as well.
Severe enough to dry out marsh lands.
Wet-lands used to feed the nesting site,
but these are big birds with the Long flight range .
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 08:52am PT
A hearty Flames welcome back for dronini!!!!

The Campfire has missed you.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Oct 1, 2016 - 09:37am PT
Too bad I missed the big Facelift event, it looks like loads of fun. I've never been to one and it is obviously a more than worthy cause. My brother Tom, and his youngest boy of six years, paid a rare visit for three days last weekend (he's an old dad now at 53 with an older boy and girl in high school).

Fact is I've been reclusive since I quit climbing 20 years ago and still can be unsociable, only coming out of my shell with the climbing community these last few years on supertopo. That's when the muse bit me. It's nice to connect again, and to spew my spew here with some of a kindred nature. I'll have to get out there for the big event one of these years but I must warn you, the full moon does a number on my fangs and claws.

Meanwhile I'm still hanging with a bunch of turkeys...

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 09:39am PT
It was so good to see the old ones, great to meet the new ones at Facelift 2016.

Same time next year.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
A selection from Goodword's Good Words Dictionary.

Eidolon (n): similar to Perlon, but very much lighter.
Sold in various lengths and measured in feet or meters.

Useful for poet/climbers, esp. light verse, but has been known to come in handy on epics.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Oct 1, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
The other day I was getting ready to post this.
I accidentally deleted the entire poem and had to
remember and rewrite it in it's entirety.
It came out much different than the original,
oh well, such is life.


The Guidebook

The route is most impossible
Though common it's still unknown
For both mortals and demigods
Where the eagle's have not yet flown
Just north of Babylon
Take a left near the old brothel
From the base of a fiery lake
Take the pillar of the apostle

And the guidebook said
To young Wilbur Sands
Climb for a hundred pitches
With your feet and with your hands
Though it took all month
The guidebook was non de script
Except for the divorce
And the broken hip

And atop the soaring pillar
A mighty headwall loomed
The cracks were all rotten
And prevalent with doom
But the guidebook said
To find a good woman
Who won't mention the wife
T'was late advice for Wilbur then

So he cast off probing weaknesses
As insipid as his own
When the rains began in earnest
He thought that he would drown
On what tears the gods shed freely
Wilbur might've taken the plunge
Off route and lost among the clouds
With only demons to expunge

Flickering it's last the headlamp bulb
Illuminated a single theme
"Exit by way of rivets
Up a dike of serpentine"
The lonely hammock swayed
Hanging off a row of pins
Engulfed by storm and clouds
On a climb that had no end

Wilbur's socked in bivouac
A long and lonely plight
Day on day
And night on night
Lifted morning of the fifth day
Last he was seen on the summit ridge
On the knife edged powdery white
With shouldered pack high on a ledge

The guidebook was never clear
Alas crystal realm negotiations
Oft times they go awry
As do earthly expectations
From beneath our clouded respite
We might find the safety of a home
In whatever warm hearth finds us
Or on high where we should ever roam

This strange magic allure
So desolate and replete
On such totems we rely on
With parched lips and wet feet
The guidebook never tells us
Which route we might be on
But we're still up there somewhere
Corporeal or eidolon

Just north of Babylon
Take a left near the old brothel
From the base of a fiery lake
Take the pillar of the apostle
One hundred pitches give or take
Then you're in it for the long haul
That's when the true climbing begins
Between the tempest and the lull

The doorbell rang
Just once once that day
Wilbur's son answered
In his way
A worn and weathered
Package came
With a guidebook that bore
His father's name

-Tim Sorenson
09/30/2016
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Oct 1, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
Brian,
Thanks, I didn't know about the perlon relation to eidelon.

This was what I was referring to;
ei·do·lon
īˈdōlən/
noun
1.
an idealized person or thing.
2.
a specter or phantom.


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 03:21pm PT
I'm glad you got a visit from your brother, Tim.

As for your coming to Facelift, we would love to have you read some poetry at a campfire in Yellow Pine one night.

That would be a trip.

"But only if you want to."

Otherwise, idle on, doing what you're doing, leaving the heavy lifting to others, just like you do at work, bud. :0)
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Oct 1, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
Fun to see our tribe ~ tribal ing

ahuntus' ahuntu ing, ~ and all like that

Orange you glad I said blue
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
It certainly was good to get back into the swing of things here in Merced after that week of park-cleaning.Gerardo installed new table-tops in the Cinema Cafe.So to that end, I walked around the block after my single pancake. I can't afford a large omelet every day...gotta think of my figure.

It's not window shopping, really, just window nosing.Who knows whose nose rested under those frames at one time?

Turning the corner onto M St. from Main, I was in the shade from the old Shaffer Bldg.Don't need no jet plane, Dingus.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 07:21pm PT
The Friday Night Opera selection.

Dragging culture into your lives whether you want it or not.

I tried to find a rendition of "Yarrow", an old folk song which Mort Hempel sung around the campfire in the olden days, but the dolled-up version by Bert Jansch just did not do it for me.

This is good, though, and from someone who may have been related to our dear departed friend.
[Click to View YouTube Video]Royal might appreciate this.

This was inspired by some of Glen Denny's reminiscing in his new book, which I am sitting here reading tonight.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 07:29pm PT
My taste is solidly plebeian.

"No One Sleeps"[Click to View YouTube Video]
One of the most popular opera pieces, a favorite of mine too.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 1, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
hey there say, mouse...

just sent you an email...
this is some really nice stuff here, from:

your BACK IN TOWN portfolio, :)
thanks for being:
our man on the street here...

you do your best work, with these folks, wow!!!
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Oct 2, 2016 - 01:08am PT

The Falcon's Call

The falcon told me where to go
Where he would lead I did not know
Over hill and yonder dell
I followed him there without fail

The falcon told me what to do
And if you heard you'd follow too
In sacred words he led me where
I stood to say a silent prayer

The falcon circled in the sky
Over this soul I knew not why
I was not dying that I knew
But I let him show me what to do

Of what he spoke I could not say
In language of the birds that day
His message was in wing-ed sign
Of serendipitous design

The falcon said come follow me
A peregrine of rapt beauty
He mesmerized me with a spell
To believe that I could fly as well

The falcon signaled me to go
To follow with my heart and soul
With losses born until I wept
My freedoms exercised and kept

The falcon spoke then flew away
To leave me 'till another day
That I might hold and should revere
The raptors grace to me so dear

The falcon was a harbinger
Of hidden destinies stranger
Than death as now a welcome friend
Ushering mercifully to the end

But the falcon warned and cried aloud
To the stay alert beware the shroud
It was not now my time to die
He said this then I know not why

The falcon spoke to me by name
You might consider this insane
But had you seen him on that day
Would you have heard what he did say?

The falcon lives here on this earth
And shares with us our place of birth
From ancient times until beyond
Our spirits share a sacred bond

The falcon calls for those who hear
For due respect and reverent fear
And a zephyr to alight upon
With a lonesome cry and mournful song

-bushman
10/01/2016
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Oct 2, 2016 - 01:15am PT
The machine is skipping dropping mixing
The time to post has arrived let's see where it goes
1
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