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mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 05:12am PT

The Dev made 'er do it.

But that's the world's worst excuse, ever. Here's the best one ever.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 05:52am PT
Annals of the Twitter-pated, Season 2, Episode 5

https://www.theverge.com/2018/8/30/17798264/trump-social-media-censorship-twitter-facebook-google

https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/politics/2018/08/29/donald-trump-google-ignored-state-union-after-promoting-obamas/1139078002/

Get this chump out of the spotlight!
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Aug 30, 2018 - 09:17am PT

Big Bald Rock Dome, the Universe, or Bust

We rode the last mile
on my beat up motorcycle
Crashing on down through
the manzanita thickets
Jim flew off the back
and followed me on foot
Where we stashed the enduro
atop the ravine

There we eyed our new route on
the skyline we’d seen
As the Feather roared down
through the canyon below
With man eating class six
over boulders down a row
The spring melt at peak
in the warm late May breeze

Racking up at the base
with trad gear and a drill
The dome rose from sight
to a summit of scree
So we set out on friction
from small feature to feature
As the birds and the insects
paid no heed to we creatures

Of what happened that day
all that’s left in my brain
Perhaps eight or nine bolts
and some memories remain
On a southeastern face
somewhere back in the day
Just me and friend Jim
on a balmy spring day

With long runs between gear
placed in flakes that we found
Fewer bolts drilled and set
in granite gold and brown
We risked eighty foot slides
on a face climbing fest
Under clear skies and sun
as we climbed at our best

I recall little else but
the grueling trip out
Pushed the bike up through thickets
of manzanita pickets
And a story Jim told
of an alien visitation
And I haven’t seen him once
from long ago days to this very one

-bushman
08/30/2018
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Aug 30, 2018 - 10:00am PT
^^^
Way Cool Tim!

Don't bust yer ass or back to find the Bald Rock beta, ;)
just thought you might have some memories of the place, players and routes
BITD.

Anyway I just took a look at Paul Bernards "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California" which includes your route with Jim.
Burning Giraffes 5.9R May 1982
700ft. gear to 3" and bolts.

Proud line from gully to the summit Tim. The pro appears to be sparse on many pitches, unless like us were reared on runout slab at Suicide. ;)

The one climb I did there BITD 76ish, is a little right of your route,
The Groove 5.9 Joe Kelsey et al. 1973. one of the first routes on the dome.

I remember not taking enough water on a hot day, maybe a quart for the 2 of us, it was gone mid climb. We had a 12 pack on ice in the truck and after topping out ran back to relieve our thirst with Schlitz Malt Liquor.

Rob Settlemire, Dave Caunt and Steve Schneider put up some routes there about the same time you were there, did you know or climb with those guys?



zBrown

Ice climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 10:02am PT
Don't need no weatherMan to know which way it flows

Chart a safe course and avoid Trumpian waters



Heeere's John and the Gritz





I was in La Crescenta when this was filmed. Was the Long Bar still open?



Ya know Hussong's was still operating, right?

Just another key in the hole

Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Aug 30, 2018 - 10:35am PT
Yeah Tad, they were the local Chico crowd and many others, whose problems at bald rock bouldering area and routes on bald rock dome I tried also, some of which I actually got up. A good friend introduced them to me when he was going to Chico State and we all kept up with each other over the years. Have lost touch with most of them since then because I stopped climbing some twenty years now.
zBrown

Ice climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 10:57am PT
Well I was always more of a Chicas kinda guy than Chico.

Don't start me talkin' about Nita. It gets confuzing.



throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 30, 2018 - 11:02am PT
I'm impressed with your Bald Rock success. I don't remember getting up more than a couple of pitches...lack of skill and fear of the unknown, coupled with a lack of a bolt kit kept us at bay. Those were the days when clean climbing ruled so we never considered using pins or bolts. Silly us. I remember parking on top and then bushwhacking down the west side. Thats where I slipped on some exposed slabs and almost ate it. Never went back.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 12:33pm PT
Bald Rock, Plumas NF - Slide show
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgqYEkwgknk

Guys, I hate to bust yer butts, but y'know bolts are responsible for the proliferation of climber population on slabs and domes
...or dontcha?

Your lack of a bolt kit, Throwpie, that's a good thing, in my opinion. I certainly never put one together, though the Rev had a modest one and so did Cowboy Larry. I can't say for sure about how many I've placed. It is a function of how many FAs one puts up, partly.

But not having one is also a show of bravado along the lines of not taking any hardware at all like the REAL FREE CLIMBERS (Preuss and the like), which conveniently converts to an "ethic." If I had been more interested in pursuing climbing than I was during the seventies, I'd have had a bag of bolts and hangers and bits and sharpening stone and drift and holder and all of that SH IT, plus expended God-knows-how-much time and energy...for what?

Drilling ain't fun, don't let'em tellya different. Why not have fun climbing? There are lots and lots more reasons for NOT having a bolt bag than I care to try to amuse myself with thinking about.

Bolts are, however, an accepted part of the game now, so it does no good to rant or point fingers. But were I still an active climber, how would I really feel now? I can't answer that. I leave it to the individual. Good luck with your conscience, and remember it don't mean sh it.

What a fine little tale you've penned, bushman. And what a nice rock on which to get an FA of such length.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 12:38pm PT
"Well I was always more of a Chicas kinda guy than Chico"

Credit: mouse from merced
Five is better, even, than two!
No jive.
No jive.
Credit: mouse from merced
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Aug 30, 2018 - 01:04pm PT
Your lack of a bolt kit, Throwpie, that's a good thing, in my opinion. I certainly never put one together,

+1
I never had a kit or even drilled hole one for many of the same reasons Mouse outlined. Not hating on bolt protected climbs mind you, they open up
fantastic slab/face terrain for the free climber.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 30, 2018 - 01:09pm PT
My ethics only existed while I was still on the deck. Once I was off the ground I would clip into anything that presented itself.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Aug 30, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
I had incorrectly noted earlier that a Jim ‘Thornton’ was my climbing partner on that bald rock FA. My apologies, it was Jim Thoen, how could I forget? I also climbed the leaning tower with him and Mike Paul back in ‘81...and for a second time within just a few weeks, just because it was fun.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Aug 30, 2018 - 01:51pm PT
Yeah Tim, the guidebook lists Jim Thoen.


And LOL Throwpie. :)

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 03:54pm PT
Fifties Chevy, maybe a '53?
Fifties Chevy, maybe a '53?
Credit: mouse from merced
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Aug 30, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Today I drove up on a 1950 Studebaker !
Pix to follow,
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase



screwed this one up! <br/>
cut off the emblem
screwed this one up!
cut off the emblem
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Now, in the late summer, cars are showing,

I'm not going

buy them trade them,

it is all hot wheels to me now
zBrown

Ice climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 05:27pm PT
Founder member Eugene Pitt (born on November 6, 1937) died on June 29, 2018 at the age of 81

Ya know the five went all Seventies on us at one time and became the Jyve Fyve

Some blond climber guy out at Chatsworh told me so.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 05:57pm PT
21 Dump Street.
21 Dump Street.
Credit: mouse from merced
Dumpster trade-off at the old Tioga.
Dumpster trade-off at the old Tioga.
Credit: mouse from merced
Timid TopRope

Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
Aug 30, 2018 - 06:55pm PT
So sad to hear Lazy Lester has moved into the great beyond. I was invited by a friend to jam with him a couple of years back but was too shy (take note gnome; too vs to vs two) to participate. He lived up the hill in Paradise. I never so much even had the pleasure to meet the legend living amongst us.

Also, a tin tear drop.

My buddy and long time poker partner, Brad Johnson put up many climbs on Bald Rock Dome. He was still an active climber until last month when he was in a horrible motorcycle accident and just recently came out of medical induced coma and not ready for my visit in hospital.

I almost died in Bald Rock Canyon directly below Bald Rock Dome but that is a river story.
zBrown

Ice climber
Aug 30, 2018 - 07:16pm PT
Remember when JR DIED and it turned out to be a dream?


Then Dylan, or was it Donini, picked up on it And allowed as how he'd let you be in his dream , if he could be in {fill in here, I ain't play in' no favorites} dream


Also, Steve Jobs, in addition to be a mean prick, assembled a massive fortune based upon his theft and the Apple Core still produces shitteee software despite all the big dada wa_bucks


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