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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 03:23am PT
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Deal With It
In the darkest night hours I struggle here yawning,
Awaiting the muse; will she come before dawning?
Alert for a goddess, I’m sitting and writing,
But against "the block" I shall not be fighting.
Lines come when they happen, not a moment before.
It’s fun for me and it’s never a chore.
--MFM
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 03:31am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 05:31am PT
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"There is no time like the present," he said with a twinkle in his eye.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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The neighbors allgnow - I'm up before dawn every day.
The game at the game
is to see if they can get me so wobbly that I dont walk home.
By 10-10.30,I've gotta go, its a 10 minute walk, last night in a pouring rain, sobering; stinging the face.
got to walk the dog, scrape plates, clean up, take out the trash, from dinner,
Lock-up & get horizontal for a few hours sleep or no.
4:40 comes and is harsh when still drunken.
When I can I do, 5 days a week, the scrapeface n' shower
daily 'constitutional', tooth scrub, n' shave under the schnoz, again,
try to instill good rudimentary habits in the one i get up and ready for school.
She benefits from hard scrambled eggs every day,
Also a roastbeef 'hockey puck' stuffed with spinach & thin sliced provolone cheese in a brioche-type roll.
A 1 pound bag of Cashews,Cheerio's & milk chocolate chips, may be a nut-bar if there is one, a bottle of water (refilled)
The boy? He sleeps till 5 minutes before the bus grabs nothing to eat, his mom has hopefully slapped ham n'cheese between slices of bread & his 'look' is a slovenly mess.
I can only do so much, his mom is not the best with or without coffee in the mornings.
There is a rough inability to bond with the guy, I have to get him to work out, exercise. He takes it the wrong sway, but Im workin' on it we do go top the gym once every two weeks.
wow wtf
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 05:44am PT
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Good morning, amigos.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Cannot smoke weed any more.
Cannot drink booze any more.
Life goes on "one day at a time."
The book which I just started has a character, a writer named Jonathan Trumpp; and he is written out very quickly.
I wish it were that easy in real life.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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cactus and fern? in pine country with cliffs and cows
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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record setting heat for feb, nor AZ at 6500'. got caught short yesterday
with a narrow mouth water bottle, worked out ok ... snow was corned up nicely
and warming my hands via facerub ... a low rent spa experience!
going to tie up a swiss seat and little else
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
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A Valley Soap Opera
In 1971 Cowboy Larry and I went up to Camp 4 Wall with hopes of climbing Secret Storm, a stout 5.10 OW which had been established by Peter Haan and Roger Breedlove only a short time before.
The attempt failed. I was expected to lead the hardest climb I'd ever chosen off and I was not really up to it. Honestly, I was so chicken when I tried the initial hard moves that I quickly backed off and told Larry he could try it. He was rather disgusted with me and claimed he didn't want to do it if I didn't think I could second it.
This wasn't a big deal in our subsequent relationship...he got over it soon enough. I just hated that I had let him down, y'know?
Then there was Edge of Night, as well, put up in 1967 by Bridwell, Doleman, and Fredrichs. I firmly told Cowboy to round up someone else to try that maverick, if he wanted. He may have gotten Matt Donahue to lead it, I think. It's all a pretty dim memory.
I never got comfortable on 5.10, and have only two to my credit: Chingando. I managed the lead but it was not a "fun romp" but rather off-putting due to the fact I had to wear a really heavy sweater to counter its abrasive inner walls.
The other was a lead on some chintzy little boulder around the Hidden Valley CG in JT. I never even followed another climb at that rating, sticking with 5.9s and happy to be doing them, mostly in good style with little whimpering or hesitation.
I keep telling myself that, had I not gotten married I'd have stayed in the Valley and met my fears, but that's just wishfulness, of course.
Soap opera stuff, for sure.
https://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/11-longest-running-daytime-soap-operas11.htm
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107505466/edge-of-night
There are other popular climbing areas which have climbs named Edge of Night: Sespe Gorge, a 5.7; Red Rock, a 5.5; Eldorado Canyon, a 5.11+.
https://www.thoughtco.com/how-soap-operas-got-their-name-3022985
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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hey mouse, what's your range/duration on O2? thinking about oregon coast
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
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I'm in the midst of trying to get a very portable unit but haven't an appointment with the VA pulmonologist until March. He needs to examine me in order to qualify me for the VA to get me a unit to carry over my shoulder.
Reason it's taking that long is that the specialist clinic operates only from 12:00 to 4:00, I need to ride the van to Fresno, and the van leaves for the return to Merced by 2:00. He's booked on the earliest times before that, noon and one, until the 23rd.
With these tanks, they only last a couple hours each at most. I don't need them all the time, of course. Intermittent usage would be the way to operate if you want to go sooner. I think I could deal with that. I'm not THAT far gone, but you saw how it was on the last two trips, buddy.
It would be wisest to wait on the portable O2 generator, I'm sure.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
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I once knew a guy named Frank Valle from Felton, CA, who was on my CDF crew out in Raymond, CA, hottest spot in the Central Valley. His dad was a glazier there in the Santa Cruz area.
They pronounced the family name (all year round) just like your burg's name is pronounced.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Words Won’t Do
Words don’t come
Like the dreams I have
About friends of mine
Who would teach me things
I’d learn more then
If I would listen
Words don’t ring
That true to me
Like chapter titles
In great works of fiction
The first sentence of
Or the last
Words are abhorred
When word has come
That ones we love
Their light has dimmed
And flickered away
Now gone for all eternity
Words don’t give
And words can’t explain
And words aren’t always everything
When words don’t lie
When words fall short
And words won’t do
Words don’t ring
That true to me
When words have lost
What they once meant
Like the phantom’s curse
When words won’t do
-Tim Sorenson
02/06/2018
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2018 - 06:34am PT
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Only thing I can say, Tim, is this:
Climbing shoes approach rope bags carabiner locks nut tools anchor chains stoppers belay glove static lightweight snowboard. Big wall bouldering crash gear sling pads quickdraws slacklines hauling bags. Blah blah.
None of it makes sense a big wall of words rope bags locking carabiner cordelette. To protect a client read every word of daisy chains and mountaineering backpacks ascenders fifi hooks, climbing chalk and gaiters, not to mention parse every sentence be it true or fabricated you are still nut tooled and anchor chained. And still not sure of the truth, you go out and get your own lawyer. And a priest for good luck. By clicking the button to Post this Reply, I acknowledge Post this Reply and swear to God that rock climbing in Zion is objectionable or offensive.
--The Phantom, Word o' honor
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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don't fence me in
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2018 - 06:58am PT
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don't fence me out
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2018 - 07:12am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2018 - 04:15pm PT
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Four o'clock shadow.
Edit: And then, at around 6 p.m., comes this announcement via Ch. 47 news--
Fresno, Calif. - The Air Quality Index is in the "Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups" range up and down the San Joaquin Valley. It's expected to worsen through the week.
This, while temperatures are at near-record highs. The two are connected through a common general cause.
A large-scale weather pattern stuck over California is blocking not only fresh, clean air from entering the Valley, it's blocking cool air, clouds and rain.
Heather Heinks at the Valley Air District says, "Particulate matter -- the microscopic pieces of soot and chemical and different collection of things in the air that are so small you can't see them but small enough to be inhaled and taken into your blood through your lungs. It's not good for your health in overall exposure."
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