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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Sep 29, 2006 - 07:23pm PT
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Scruffy,
TK is right, it's "Funky Bolt" in the City of Rocks.
Here is a shot of the one, of many, scary clips on those friction climbs.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Sep 29, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
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The hand crack on Hot Line ain't bad, nor is the last pitch of the Gripper, Stoverlegs (for location), Cream, and on and on ...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 29, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
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Werner, that left 5.11+ version of p2 looks nice. Not to mention the cool roof you did up higher, left of the bombay! That has got to be the true hard man way, as if the route was not already hard. I'm unworthy - I've kind of given up on doing the start of the crux of the 5.12a, where the crack narrows from thin hands to fingers. I just can't seem to stick there! So I have resorted to just yarding through there, to get to the pitches above. But it looks so good I would sure love to get in shape to be able to free it. I like the idea of doing it all in one 60m pitch, too - I've been still belaying at the old spot above the roof.
Joe, thanks for the new ASCA bolts - very nice. I saw those 2 bolts you described, last Sunday. I guess they are closer together than the recommended "14 bolt diameters". Although in that super rock quality, I doubt they'll fail. With the other 2 bolts and the good gear, at least it's safe. I suppose they were put close to minimize the number of chain links, which is not a bad idea if it's strong enough.
I'm a "creature of habit" and I still rap off the right side. I saw a bit of cut-off rope in the hand crack just below the top of pitch 2 - I'd say there is some risk of a rap rope getting stuck. Not much for the rap rope to hang up on, with the right side raps - I do them from the top of Nightmare, because I still haven't been ready to tackle the 5.10d bombay. I noticed some more features on it this time, so maybe next time I'll give it a go.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 29, 2006 - 09:21pm PT
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"Is a splitter also a corner?"
No, never.
"I'd even say you can't lieback a splitter."
Check out Coyne crack any green weekend.
Handsome B, great jade montage! thanks,
-but why is that guy above that a ways face climbing a splitter?
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Sep 30, 2006 - 07:18am PT
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Hi Chiloe,
Nice to see a photo from my homecrag, Kullen. Sorry I couldn't join you on your recent visit. But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!
But again: Nice to see it on this excellent site!
Call me should you ever get to Copenhagen again.
Regards
Michael
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 30, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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Michael Hjorth:
But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!
Heh, that’s why the fine print said “This is the best splitter I've done lately, anyway.”
Here’s a story about a splitter somewhere else:
http://pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/gunsmoke2.htm
And here’s some found humor, when we hiked out to one that looked cool from the road:
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 11, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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Chiloe to the humor rescue. Found this linked to another topo thread. When life gives you lemons...............
Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 03:39am PT
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Didn't get it all clean:
And the start of this almost split my fingers off, so that's a kind of splitter:
Here's scuffy's butt on a serious splitter:
and another one:
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 11, 2010 - 07:06am PT
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pyrosis
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 08:13am PT
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Woah, now that's a nice looking gym crack! Bad ass.
A few memorable splitters...
Blue Sun
Jolly Rancher
Supercrack
Crack Attack
Johnny Cat
3rd pitch of gripper
Blues Riff
Direct Northwest on Lembert
Robbins Crack and Jaws on Mt Woodson
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Justin DuBois
Trad climber
estes park co
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Oct 11, 2010 - 10:33am PT
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No mention of any number of routes at Devil's Tower? wheres the love ST?
Bloodgaurd 5.12- =epic splitter!
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Nkane
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Oct 11, 2010 - 11:46am PT
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Breakfast of Champions: Harder than it looks.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oct 11, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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Pennsylenvy:
Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?
The famed Beetlejuice Body Jam, I think. It's some chalkless crack so obscure that Beetlejuice was still in the same position when we came back a year later. We moved him to the top so he'd feel better about life.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
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Midget Chimney!
Calling le_bruce, it's about that time of the year for a rematch....
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO Cal
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Oct 11, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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Reeds direct is not splitter. It is cool though.
Nutjob, nice pic of Midterm. Now thats a splitter!!
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Oct 11, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
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i agree, Reeds is not what i would consider splitter, but it is very good.
here is my rendition of why i consider reeds not so splitter, WARNING: image not to scale or color, and the top only slightly reflects the nature of the climb.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:02am PT
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O.K. all. But I'm still trolling for the riddle of the 'midget chimney'. At this point I will give clues very fast. Such as state of the union. Posters here/on this thread whom I know have done this route.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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It's either in CA, UT, AZ,NV or "C B for all you truckers"
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Oct 12, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Think Midget Chimney...............
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