The Best Splitter cracks

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clustiere

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2006 - 06:47am PT
Now I am lucky enough to live near indian creek so It is hard to say, but I will list a few considering the few i have done. Prefrence should be those you have done clean. Pictures if you got em.

Increadible Hand Crack
Super Crack
Pente
King Cat
Johnny Cat
Triassic Sands RR
Said and Done to Reunion (granite mtn)




need to check the log surely more to come, will attempt to post some pictures too.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:09am PT
Third pitch finger crack of Reunion at Granite Mountain...awesome!

Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:17am PT
Excuse Station
Exasperator
Reed's Regular
Coyne(any of them)
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:20am PT
Nine Lives
The upper part of Deseret Moon
d-know

Trad climber
electric lady land
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:20am PT
is a splitter also a corner?

i say no.

i'd even say you can't lieback a splitter.

well you could, but that would be bad form.

i.c. splitters: excuse station, slice and dice, optimator (mostly splitter), nine lives,
supercat, sacred cow (killer splitter finish).
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:25am PT
The Fox, RR
Our Father, RR
Sons of Yesterday, Yosemite
Yin and Yang, RR
Atman, RR
Red Zinger, RR (haven't done this one, but it looks incredible)

I'll also agree on Reeds and Triassic, both are beautiful and excellent climbing.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 29, 2006 - 08:19am PT
mmm splitter....[/Homer]


I agree yin and yang is pretty cool, as is Atman.

shot courtesy of the brother




I'm also sucker the local stuff....

Spare Rib, Gallatin Canyon




this splitter got a bit too wide for me.....

^another from the brother...


cheers,
Tom
nate

Trad climber
virginia
Sep 29, 2006 - 08:35am PT
Atman - splitters have to be more than 15 feet.

How about east coast splitters.

Shredded Wheat -rumbling bald

The The- old rag

Strawberry fields - old rag

Genocide - NRG

Leave it to jesus - (not really but sweet) nrg



noshoesnoshirt

climber
hither and yon
Sep 29, 2006 - 08:36am PT
Ummm, your mother?
rbob

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 08:40am PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/images/70/27/105797027_large_a31827.jpg

Bony-Fingers at Whale Buttress, Whitney Portal...
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Sep 29, 2006 - 08:42am PT

City of Rocks, ID


Southern Utah


Red Rocks, NV


Fine Jade, Moab, UT
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 29, 2006 - 08:51am PT
few more from RR






Moab area...




The City


Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 29, 2006 - 09:05am PT
This is the best splitter I've done lately, anyway. Thomas Boesgaard took the photo, on a fine seaside climb at Kullen.

G_Gnome

Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
Sep 29, 2006 - 09:34am PT
There was this perfect 1 to 1 1/2 inch perfect 5.10 splitter I once did in Icebox or one of the those canyons at Redrocks. It is probably the only place I left a cam to get down. I needed about 10 cams all in that size range and only came with 4. I kept climbing down and cleaning and going back up and leading some more. I finally gave up and lowered off leaving a cam. Sweet route but I was totally unprepared.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 29, 2006 - 09:47am PT
Face can be fine, and corners can be cool,
But splitters are supreme, and that's my golden rule.







Found a little crack now called Touchstone my first year in the desert. That was all she wrote. Hooked for life. No cure.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Sep 29, 2006 - 10:12am PT
i'd love to see a stiched together photo of touchstone like the fine jade one above. gotta be one of the longest continuous cracks i've ever climbed.

edit: not great, definately not what i was looking for, but it'll have to do for now



hB edit:corner DAB, don't make mike come in here and define splitter for you again
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Sep 29, 2006 - 10:16am PT
As far as splitters go, nothing, and I mean nothing, compares to Moonlight Buttress.
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Sep 29, 2006 - 10:52am PT
i.e: Corner Dab

Only the crux is a corner. Above the crux lies a 210 foot uninterrupted purple camalot splitter in black sandstone.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Sep 29, 2006 - 11:06am PT
i know, just hoping to draw you out into posting some photos.

here's one from Climbing's website


edit: it's really sad how few pics i have of climbing, just went through a collection, and all i had were bouldering shots
murcy

climber
san francisco
Sep 29, 2006 - 11:22am PT
I love that stitched shot, Handsome B. A SuperDuperTopo would have them for every route.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 29, 2006 - 11:22am PT
All spitters are sweet.

Some that haven't been mentioned:

Manana
The Stovelegs
Generator Crack
Sacherer Cracker
Scarface

It seemed like most of what I climbed in IC was in a corner.
emac

Trad climber
New Hampshire
Sep 29, 2006 - 11:55am PT
Reppy's Crack on Cannon Mt., NH is quite good. I really liked Serenity Crack in Yosemite too, and Strawberry Fields at Old Rag, VA.
The Randy One

Trad climber
Denver
Sep 29, 2006 - 12:09pm PT
I heard El Cap (not to mention the Valley in general) has some decent splitter cracks....
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Sep 29, 2006 - 12:24pm PT
Shield.

Touchstone looks like it's 3 pitches long in that pic.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 29, 2006 - 12:28pm PT
I think with 70m ropes you could do the crack in 3 or 4.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 29, 2006 - 12:33pm PT
The Mussman sending Spiderman (Conan's Corridor)
at JT last weekend...

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 29, 2006 - 12:42pm PT


My favorite hand crack in the Valley - 140' of fun. Extra points if you can name this climb.
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Sep 29, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
haha, people only do 3 pitches these days anyway, Ron.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 29, 2006 - 12:58pm PT
Where is that, Clint? Looks beautiful.

There's ~300 feet of hand crack on Silent Line, IIRC.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 29, 2006 - 01:01pm PT
phuqin anklebiters!
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 29, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
P1 Wall of the Worlds, Calaveras Dome
snakefoot

climber
cali
Sep 29, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
one of the classics, Bachar Cracker

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:08pm PT
Stove Legs?
ha-ha

climber
location
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:20pm PT
left crack
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:21pm PT
Hey Handsome B and TKingsbury,
I'm suffering from brain fart or somethin in addition to my
normal inability to recognize things I've seen a lot.
What are those two climbs at City of Rocks?
Thanks
sm
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:26pm PT
That City route is Funky Bolt, not sure but I think Handsome B's shot might be the same route, but lower...is that correct?

Tom
WC

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:32pm PT
Ultimate Finger Crack - Sedona
The Prow - Paradise Forks
Middle Trinity - The Overlook
P3 of West Crack - TM
Beeline - Cochise Stronghold

How do you post pictures?
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:37pm PT
Thanks, Tom. I've only done that climb maybe 3 times, probably
looked at it on 50 or so different occasions. I can see now that
your shot is at the stemmy part that gives folks trouble
sometimes. A couple of the climbs to the left have some of the
purest friction moves I've ever seen.
sm
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:37pm PT
WC-

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum_help.html

you have to host the photo somewhere like imageshack or photobucket....
WBraun

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
Clint

In your splitter crack photo above the crack on the left was the variation I put up. A something 5.11+ rating, whatever that means.

Anyways your photo shows the second pitch of Hotline. The classic 5.10 hand crack.
jghedge

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 04:09pm PT
Clint, that's p2 of Hotline on Elephant Rock in the Valley - done it several times - me and Walt installed bolt anchors at the belays so you could rap straight down the route instead of having to go down the right side or whatever. Did somebody finally do that crack system to the left?
jghedge

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 04:22pm PT
Except we didn't put those bolts in at the end of the traverse, where that picture was taken from - Wonder Brawn did that I believe - Walt was bitching and moaning because he thought the bolts were too close together
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Sep 29, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
Scruffy,
TK is right, it's "Funky Bolt" in the City of Rocks.

Here is a shot of the one, of many, scary clips on those friction climbs.

Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Sep 29, 2006 - 04:32pm PT
The hand crack on Hot Line ain't bad, nor is the last pitch of the Gripper, Stoverlegs (for location), Cream, and on and on ...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 29, 2006 - 06:13pm PT
Werner, that left 5.11+ version of p2 looks nice. Not to mention the cool roof you did up higher, left of the bombay! That has got to be the true hard man way, as if the route was not already hard. I'm unworthy - I've kind of given up on doing the start of the crux of the 5.12a, where the crack narrows from thin hands to fingers. I just can't seem to stick there! So I have resorted to just yarding through there, to get to the pitches above. But it looks so good I would sure love to get in shape to be able to free it. I like the idea of doing it all in one 60m pitch, too - I've been still belaying at the old spot above the roof.

Joe, thanks for the new ASCA bolts - very nice. I saw those 2 bolts you described, last Sunday. I guess they are closer together than the recommended "14 bolt diameters". Although in that super rock quality, I doubt they'll fail. With the other 2 bolts and the good gear, at least it's safe. I suppose they were put close to minimize the number of chain links, which is not a bad idea if it's strong enough.

I'm a "creature of habit" and I still rap off the right side. I saw a bit of cut-off rope in the hand crack just below the top of pitch 2 - I'd say there is some risk of a rap rope getting stuck. Not much for the rap rope to hang up on, with the right side raps - I do them from the top of Nightmare, because I still haven't been ready to tackle the 5.10d bombay. I noticed some more features on it this time, so maybe next time I'll give it a go.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 29, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
"Is a splitter also a corner?"
No, never.
"I'd even say you can't lieback a splitter."
Check out Coyne crack any green weekend.

Handsome B, great jade montage! thanks,
-but why is that guy above that a ways face climbing a splitter?
jghedge

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
Calling that crux traverse 12a is kind of a joke, I tried it many and never could claw my way across. I did the route with Cosgrove my first time on it and he pulled it off in one pitch, onsight, but he threw this ridiculous full-wingspan sideways dyno and barely stuck it
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Sep 30, 2006 - 04:18am PT
Hi Chiloe,

Nice to see a photo from my homecrag, Kullen. Sorry I couldn't join you on your recent visit. But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!

But again: Nice to see it on this excellent site!

Call me should you ever get to Copenhagen again.

Regards
Michael
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 30, 2006 - 12:25pm PT
Michael Hjorth:
But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!

Heh, that’s why the fine print said “This is the best splitter I've done lately, anyway.”

Here’s a story about a splitter somewhere else:
http://pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/gunsmoke2.htm

And here’s some found humor, when we hiked out to one that looked cool from the road:

Pate

Trad climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 08:16am PT
bump for splitters
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Oct 10, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
Chiloe to the humor rescue. Found this linked to another topo thread. When life gives you lemons...............

Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 12:39am PT
Didn't get it all clean:


And the start of this almost split my fingers off, so that's a kind of splitter:


Here's scuffy's butt on a serious splitter:


and another one:
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 11, 2010 - 04:06am PT

pyrosis

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 05:13am PT
Woah, now that's a nice looking gym crack! Bad ass.

A few memorable splitters...

Blue Sun
Jolly Rancher
Supercrack
Crack Attack
Johnny Cat
3rd pitch of gripper
Blues Riff
Direct Northwest on Lembert
Robbins Crack and Jaws on Mt Woodson
Justin DuBois

Trad climber
estes park co
Oct 11, 2010 - 07:33am PT
No mention of any number of routes at Devil's Tower? wheres the love ST?

Bloodgaurd 5.12- =epic splitter!
Nkane

Trad climber
New York, NY
Oct 11, 2010 - 08:46am PT
Breakfast of Champions: Harder than it looks.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Oct 11, 2010 - 06:45pm PT
Pennsylenvy:
Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?

The famed Beetlejuice Body Jam, I think. It's some chalkless crack so obscure that Beetlejuice was still in the same position when we came back a year later. We moved him to the top so he'd feel better about life.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 06:58pm PT
Midget Chimney!

Calling le_bruce, it's about that time of the year for a rematch....
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO Cal
Oct 11, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
Reeds direct is not splitter. It is cool though.

Nutjob, nice pic of Midterm. Now thats a splitter!!
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 07:55pm PT
i agree, Reeds is not what i would consider splitter, but it is very good.

here is my rendition of why i consider reeds not so splitter, WARNING: image not to scale or color, and the top only slightly reflects the nature of the climb.

Credit: squatch
kiwi

Trad climber
Olympia, WA
Oct 11, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
gotta be that guy from washington. the headwall of Outer space is pretty good. a 300 foot perfect 5.7 hand crack in a incredible position. plus its got a sweet ledge at the halfway point! oh, and knobs galore!!!! don't have to jam if you don't want to!

http://fivenineclimber.com/images/northwest%20cragging/snow-creek-wall.jpg

Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
O.K. all. But I'm still trolling for the riddle of the 'midget chimney'. At this point I will give clues very fast. Such as state of the union. Posters here/on this thread whom I know have done this route.
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
It's either in CA, UT, AZ,NV or "C B for all you truckers"
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
Think Midget Chimney...............
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
1st pitch
1st pitch
Credit: mike m
MWFFV 2nd pitch
MWFFV 2nd pitch
Credit: mike m
The very fun 3rd pitch of MWFFV
The very fun 3rd pitch of MWFFV
Credit: mike m
McCarthy West Face Free Variation is the same crack from top to bottom on 550ft of sweet crack of about every variation from hands, to stem box to offidth, to thin fingers., to overhanging chimney.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
Jim McCarthy and Sandy Bill on the FA of THE Splitter to End All Splitters- The Lotus Flower Tower!

snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
Big Guy!
Big Guy!
Credit: snowhazed
scotty vincik

climber
up north, these days
Oct 12, 2010 - 03:56am PT
JCA's Wide World of Sports
http://www.widefetish.com/features/jays_wws/jays_wws.html
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 6, 2010 - 09:13am PT
Splitter Bump!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 6, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
A few handy splitters.














A splitter in my head.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Nov 6, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
How about these ones?

Kaukulator
Blind Faith
Chingando
Steppin' Out
Enema
Cobra Crack
High Plains Drifter
Split Pillar Left Side
Yosemite Pinnacle

Ditto for;
Outer Space
Butterballs
Fingerlickin

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 6, 2010 - 04:57pm PT
Here's a splitter that is for many a spitter as well...

Credit: Kris Solem
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Nov 6, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
I saw the phrase splitter crack, and was on my way to post Lotus Flower Tower, when I go to the last page, and see Mr. Grossman has rightly posted.


and one thinks of...
moab

and thin ice


and....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
Nov 6, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
Hey, how 'bout that outside-the-window-flake fingers job on the RNWF of Half Dome?
Mitch Underhill

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Nov 6, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
Positive Vibrations
Spacewalk
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
Solid thread.
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Feb 14, 2013 - 08:56am PT
Anybody on here got recommendations of classic splitters in Freemont Canyon (WY)?

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2013 - 09:57am PT
I can't remember if it's splitter or offset but 'Of wine and Roses' is a classic crack climb!
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Feb 14, 2013 - 10:00am PT
Kris,

What/where is that last climb? Looks kinda like Needles? Davy Jones Locker?

West side sierra?

Looks Nice!

 Luke
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Feb 14, 2013 - 11:57am PT
What about Sphinx Crack in Sphinx Park, Colorado? S. Plate area. I know it's a perfect splitter because it was dynamited. Is it still in a No Trespassing zone?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
Credit: Reilly
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Bruce,

Sphinx Crack is still definitely a no trespassing zone. A few other areas in the S. Platte have lost access in recent years as well. For instance, Squat Rock was closed a few years ago. That was where I led my very first 5.9 traditional route.

briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
English Breakfast Crack. So pretty...and then so burly haha
English Breakfast Crack. So pretty...and then so burly haha
Credit: briham89
Splitter slightly tight hands...on the Sonora Pass somewhere...
Splitter slightly tight hands...on the Sonora Pass somewhere...
Credit: briham89
Clean and splitter
Clean and splitter
Credit: briham89
Looking up the prow from the 1st pitch alternate start (JoJo)
Looking up the prow from the 1st pitch alternate start (JoJo)
Credit: briham89

not the best shot of JoJo but if you've been on it....you know
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
A little more South Platte:

Scorpio Crack (5.10+). I think this thing is slightly overhanging the whole way (fingers and thin hands). Haven't made it there yet to climb it, though.


Stolen from MP.com
Stolen from MP.com
Credit: gonzo chemist

Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Feb 14, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
"Scorpio Crack" (5.10+) you say? Looks like a perfect hang-dog moan fest if you bring along enough cams to hang on. In any event, an athletic tour-de-force.

Thanks for posting. Thinking about a Colorado holiday this April. Where is "Scorpio" in the Platte exactly? Near Sphinx Park?
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 14, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Where is "Scorpio" in the Platte exactly? Near Sphinx Park?
Scorpio is outside of Woodland Park, off of Rampart Range Road. A little grainy but still classic. 5.10 fingers at the start and then hands to the top, slightly overhanging.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Feb 14, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Mr Natural!
Mr Natural!
Credit: RP3
Credit: RP3
I've always been partial to Mr Natural!
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Feb 14, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
on this tread there a lot of cool corners, but they are not under splitter category ..
Charlie B

Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
Feb 14, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Welcome to ole Kentuck, RRG
Welcome to ole Kentuck, RRG
Credit: Charlie B
Sweden-Ringle, whipping off the extension, Air Sweden.
Sweden-Ringle, whipping off the extension, Air Sweden.
Credit: Charlie B
The Headache, Zion, UT
The Headache, Zion, UT
Credit: Charlie B
Whippersnapper, Tuolumne
Whippersnapper, Tuolumne
Credit: Charlie B
Crack House Roof, Moab
Crack House Roof, Moab
Credit: Charlie B
Power Wall Crack, Tuolumne
Power Wall Crack, Tuolumne
Credit: Charlie B
Outer Space, Leavenworth
Outer Space, Leavenworth
Credit: Charlie B

Clint - That pitch is amazing! Did anyone get it?
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
Bump for splitters!

The crux splitter on Solar Burn.
The crux splitter on Solar Burn.
Credit: Adam Sheer


Bad Cat


Double Bock

 Luke
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Sep 25, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Love Mr Natural, haven't been on it since that guy got killed by the rockfall over there on Apron Jam though.

Trout:

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 25, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
P1 Wall of the Worlds, Calaveras Dome
-Slobmonster

I'd agree with P1 and P2 being such. But maybe you ran them together?

Positive Vibrations at the Hulk had a whole lot of splitter. The most jams I've done in a day, that's for sure.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
Equinox.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Sep 25, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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