The Best Splitter cracks

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 94 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jghedge

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
Clint, that's p2 of Hotline on Elephant Rock in the Valley - done it several times - me and Walt installed bolt anchors at the belays so you could rap straight down the route instead of having to go down the right side or whatever. Did somebody finally do that crack system to the left?
jghedge

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
Except we didn't put those bolts in at the end of the traverse, where that picture was taken from - Wonder Brawn did that I believe - Walt was bitching and moaning because he thought the bolts were too close together
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:23pm PT
Scruffy,
TK is right, it's "Funky Bolt" in the City of Rocks.

Here is a shot of the one, of many, scary clips on those friction climbs.

Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Sep 29, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
The hand crack on Hot Line ain't bad, nor is the last pitch of the Gripper, Stoverlegs (for location), Cream, and on and on ...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 29, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
Werner, that left 5.11+ version of p2 looks nice. Not to mention the cool roof you did up higher, left of the bombay! That has got to be the true hard man way, as if the route was not already hard. I'm unworthy - I've kind of given up on doing the start of the crux of the 5.12a, where the crack narrows from thin hands to fingers. I just can't seem to stick there! So I have resorted to just yarding through there, to get to the pitches above. But it looks so good I would sure love to get in shape to be able to free it. I like the idea of doing it all in one 60m pitch, too - I've been still belaying at the old spot above the roof.

Joe, thanks for the new ASCA bolts - very nice. I saw those 2 bolts you described, last Sunday. I guess they are closer together than the recommended "14 bolt diameters". Although in that super rock quality, I doubt they'll fail. With the other 2 bolts and the good gear, at least it's safe. I suppose they were put close to minimize the number of chain links, which is not a bad idea if it's strong enough.

I'm a "creature of habit" and I still rap off the right side. I saw a bit of cut-off rope in the hand crack just below the top of pitch 2 - I'd say there is some risk of a rap rope getting stuck. Not much for the rap rope to hang up on, with the right side raps - I do them from the top of Nightmare, because I still haven't been ready to tackle the 5.10d bombay. I noticed some more features on it this time, so maybe next time I'll give it a go.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 29, 2006 - 09:21pm PT
"Is a splitter also a corner?"
No, never.
"I'd even say you can't lieback a splitter."
Check out Coyne crack any green weekend.

Handsome B, great jade montage! thanks,
-but why is that guy above that a ways face climbing a splitter?
jghedge

climber
Sep 29, 2006 - 09:46pm PT
Calling that crux traverse 12a is kind of a joke, I tried it many and never could claw my way across. I did the route with Cosgrove my first time on it and he pulled it off in one pitch, onsight, but he threw this ridiculous full-wingspan sideways dyno and barely stuck it
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Sep 30, 2006 - 07:18am PT
Hi Chiloe,

Nice to see a photo from my homecrag, Kullen. Sorry I couldn't join you on your recent visit. But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!

But again: Nice to see it on this excellent site!

Call me should you ever get to Copenhagen again.

Regards
Michael
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 30, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
Michael Hjorth:
But as I am possibly the person who has climbed this specific route the most (200+ times; up, down, in wellies, at night, solo) I think I can say with some weight that it does not compare to the others splitters on this tread. Even if it's called Fingerjam, it can easily be faceclimbed. And it's just 30 feet!

Heh, that’s why the fine print said “This is the best splitter I've done lately, anyway.”

Here’s a story about a splitter somewhere else:
http://pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/gunsmoke2.htm

And here’s some found humor, when we hiked out to one that looked cool from the road:

Pate

Trad climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 11:16am PT
bump for splitters
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Oct 11, 2010 - 01:44am PT
Chiloe to the humor rescue. Found this linked to another topo thread. When life gives you lemons...............

Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 03:39am PT
Didn't get it all clean:


And the start of this almost split my fingers off, so that's a kind of splitter:


Here's scuffy's butt on a serious splitter:


and another one:
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 11, 2010 - 07:06am PT

pyrosis

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 08:13am PT
Woah, now that's a nice looking gym crack! Bad ass.

A few memorable splitters...

Blue Sun
Jolly Rancher
Supercrack
Crack Attack
Johnny Cat
3rd pitch of gripper
Blues Riff
Direct Northwest on Lembert
Robbins Crack and Jaws on Mt Woodson
Justin DuBois

Trad climber
estes park co
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:33am PT
No mention of any number of routes at Devil's Tower? wheres the love ST?

Bloodgaurd 5.12- =epic splitter!
Nkane

Trad climber
New York, NY
Oct 11, 2010 - 11:46am PT
Breakfast of Champions: Harder than it looks.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Oct 11, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
Pennsylenvy:
Is that the 'famed' midget chimney crack?

The famed Beetlejuice Body Jam, I think. It's some chalkless crack so obscure that Beetlejuice was still in the same position when we came back a year later. We moved him to the top so he'd feel better about life.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
Midget Chimney!

Calling le_bruce, it's about that time of the year for a rematch....
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO Cal
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
Reeds direct is not splitter. It is cool though.

Nutjob, nice pic of Midterm. Now thats a splitter!!
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
i agree, Reeds is not what i would consider splitter, but it is very good.

here is my rendition of why i consider reeds not so splitter, WARNING: image not to scale or color, and the top only slightly reflects the nature of the climb.

Credit: squatch
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