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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 23, 2015 - 04:08am PT
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Good morning, (sorry for the translation) I please know a few things about this climb on EL CAP, which I count (in my humble opinion) a masterpiece of climbing artificial. What are the charges that you make to these two great climber? They made holes for the Sky-Hook or Cliff- Hanger? I could not understand the problem of the holes, if they have drilled or not (I can not understand the translation) (I think it is ethically prohibited to make holes to put bat-Hook) (I can be wrong, I do not know what the exact rules )
I do please understand the dispute issues on this big climb?
"" "" "" "" "" "" "" We did do the Ring of Fire, and we DID use bat hooks instead of rivets On That route "" "" "" "" "" "" ""
Please explain to me what they are: Ring of Fire?
Thank you very much for your explanations.
Greetings to all from Italy
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El Cap's Hardest: Wings of Steel
By Ammon McNeely and additional reporting by Kait Barber
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/el-caps-hardest-wings-of-steel
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Mar 23, 2015 - 05:32am PT
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The question is ..Can detergent be used to wash ropes...
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Mar 23, 2015 - 06:24am PT
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Down or synthetic for my sleeping bag?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 23, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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Couldn't give a crap about WoS (hah hah), but why does R&I have a "lates-news" link?
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 08:23am PT
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Thanks a lot Mr.Kunlun_Shan for video, with these great climber (first climbers and first repeaters) But, unfortunately, I do not understand your language (and I'm so sorry) And I'm too old to try to learn it !!! For others who kindly responded, but it seems ironic answers too, though I thank them too, although I would like to know and understand, such accusations are leveled at this big climb, I think these two great climbers,
Mr.Mark Smith and Mr. Richard Jensen did a great masterpiece of EL CAPITAN. I would like to read their book, but unfortunately in Italian or French (who'd understand there). However, I am in front of Mr. Smith and Mr.Jensen tell them: You have done a climb legendary !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chapeau !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Greetings to all and welcome to other answers !!
Thank you very much.
-------------------------------------------------- ------------------------- P.S.
The Video posted then I will see some of it translated by a friend who knows your language, that I know nothing.
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Thank you very much also Mr. Justthemaid for Your Answer!!!!
Greetings.
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Thanks for the explanation Mr.Clint Cummins !!!!!!!!
Greetings.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 23, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Please explain to me what they are: Ring of Fire? Ring of Fire is another first ascent they did on El Capitan, after Wings of Steel.
The controversy was mostly because many climbers thought the rock was too blank (on the Great Slab of Wings of Steel) to climb without drilling a very large number of holes for bolts, rivets and bathooks. But Richard Jensen and Mark Smith used hooks to avoid much drilling, and the result was the most difficult hooking on El Capitan. At least one climber did not believe the topo (published in the 1982 guidebook). They continued to think there was more drilling than what was shown on the topo. They were wrong. The topo was confirmed when Ammon and Kait climbed it.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Mar 23, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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It was an unusual route done by climbers new to Yosemite and other top climbers of the day didn't like the type of route and made a lot of incorrect claims about the route.
If the people against the route has simply climbed the first pitch they would have seen what it was about and the controversy would have probably died right then. But some people still complain about the route and still haven't climbed any of it to this day.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Mar 23, 2015 - 01:33pm PT
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I think this pretty much sums it up:
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sempervirens
climber
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Mar 23, 2015 - 01:42pm PT
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Also, the non-locals didn't have the decency to show respect to the locals who were throwing bags of sh#t down at them.
The locals had every right to throw sh#t 'cause they didn't want to waste valuable climbing time actually climbing the route in question.
(My remarks probably can't be accurately translated into Italian.)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 23, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
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To me, the most compelling part of the story has always been the human element - the pride and arrogance of the locals, the determination of the upstarts.
The part that always warms my heart is that a quarter-century later, one of the bullies had the hugely large balls and the contrite heart to apologize publicly to the first ascensionists, who forgave him unconditionally.
To me, this is the sign of true character, and those three are Real Men whom I admire greatly.
Incidentally, this whole story of repentance and forgiveness - and so much more - is found right here on the pages of this very website!
Cheers,
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
Ontario, Canada, eh?
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Mar 25, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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I hope you were able to see the film via Snagfilms. Sometimes those sites don't work outside the US.
The film is also available on iTunes Europe and at Steepedge.com. I think all offer low cost rental options.
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Pete Hill
Social climber
Squamish
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Nov 12, 2015 - 07:44pm PT
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I just watched the movie and was impressed by how petty the naysayers presented themselves.
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 12, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
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IT WAS A SIMPLE MISUNDERSTANDING, RESOLVED LATER.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 23, 2016 - 02:53pm PT
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there's a controversial question?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 23, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
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In almost any group, or activity, there are those who believe in a fictitious perversion of Newton's Third Law of Motion: for every action, there is an opposite and equal reaction.
Some people believe that if they push down on others, they will elevate themselves upward.
This works in a swimming pool, to a degree, but not in real life.
Like everyone else, the spit-drooling guy in the Ammon film is a mixed bag of both good and bad elements. All we can hope in this life is to strive to suppress the latter. Drool-guy has earned much respect for what he has accomplished; then, there he goes, drooling on camera . . . . .
This is a societal dysfunction that is pervasive, and has existed for millenia.
I'm sorry that I inserted a cigar into Chelsea's proxy, and then smoked it down.
William Jefferson Clinton, 42nd President of the United States
Hello, my name is Tom, and I am a Fedexaholic.
Many times, I have Fedexed haul bags off El Capitan because I was too lazy to carry them down.
The cranial rush that accompanies slipping the knot and sending the Package from the ZMDZ to the ZMLZ is akin to (I am guessing) snorting up a big fat Speedball of cocaine and heroin. Do it once, and you're hooked.
I no longer throw haul bags off El Capitan, but I have to take it one day at a time.
Just the other day, I was reminiscing about driving up to Tuolumne Meadows, and wondering if those big, round erratic boulders at Olmstead Point could be rolled into Tenaya Canyon, if I could just find a big enough crowbar . . . . . .
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 23, 2016 - 04:10pm PT
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Ever tried to surf at Huntington Beach? It was turf war.
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