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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Mar 22, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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What is a scenario where a self rescue is required?
Here's one, but there are many different situations while roped soloing a route.
Rope soloing and you take a fall above an overhang, swinging into the wall below and breaking an arm. Not enough rope to get down and hanging in space.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 22, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
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Not enough rope to get down and hanging in space.
What do you do now?
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Mar 22, 2015 - 11:06pm PT
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First, scream like hell and hope someone is around.
If not, break, out a couple of prussic's and/or a couple of runners and slowly make your way up. Its going to be slow going with a broken arm, but it can be done.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 23, 2015 - 12:14am PT
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Split the rope down the middle?
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meuw
Big Wall climber
Europe
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Mar 24, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
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Thanks for great thread, I`ve just started to search the same
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NASH
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Thanks for all the help, and amusement. You guys are great!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 31, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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If you are not limber enough to kiss your ass good by you shouldn't be climbing.
(How come nobody has told NASH that he is going to die?)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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NASH-
Yer gonna die
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Someone please explain to NASH about the black humor prevalent on the taco.
He just sent me the following;
This message has been sent from a fellow registered SuperTopo climbing member to you.
The message is:
pardon me for trying to be better, safer climber. I've been climbing for over 8 years and thought a Self Rescue course would be a good idea in case i kick a boulder onto my buddy's head.
you better hope i don't see you in trouble somewhere, i wouldn't piss in your mouth if your gums were on fire.
Sent by: NASH
Listen Mr. Hot Head,
I've been climbing for 48 years, have put up one or two routes, and was among the first 10 rock guides in this country to be fully certified by the AMGA.
That is how I know S.P. Parker, and many who teach self rescue, such as myself.
You need to get educated and contrite.
(somebody buy this guy a clue)
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
Ventura
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i used to teach that with every lead class i gave. bob is good, but if want a great class check out nols.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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"Paging Doug Scott. Will Mr Doug Scott please crawl to the nearest courtesy phone?"
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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Cpt. O, hey, I mean, c'mon, the fella's been climbing for over 8 years, okay? ;-)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I guess Capm Pissgums Jr. didn't catch when, a few years ago, a guy from germany came on the taco looking for beta who obviously had difficulties with english and so I warned him in german that if somebody said "yer gonna die" not to take it personally. It is only a taco mantra.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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We are all terminal anyway, and the expression speaks of the levity that gets us through the tight spots. Like when you are clipped in tight some several pitches up and the gear starts jitterbug buzzing with the electricity coming down from the clouds. We're All Gonna Die!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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and of course.
When I'm around and all have survived the day of adventure.
I propose the toast:
Here's to Cheating Death
Most like it, but some seem distressed at the thought.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I messed up. I've only been climbing 47 years (what a noob).
But by the time I'd been climbing 8 years I had made the FSAs and even a SFA of numerous desert summits and had put up Pervertical, Touchstone and soloed most of Space Shot, all with just pins and nuts. Capm Pissgums Jr. better get on the stick!
Do you know your;
autoblock
garda
Bachman
mule knot
Kleimheist
counter balance rescue
reduction/ deflation tension pneumothorax
trachiostemy
concussion diagnostic skills
Do you carry a SAM? A cordellette? A compass with signal mirror?
Besides, Pissgums, didn't you know that during early WW1 the issued "gas masks" were wire cages filled with thick batting that the soldier was told to urinate on so that the ammonia would neutralize the gas.
Soon better masks were issued and all the soldiers agreed that they would never talk about the early masks ever again!
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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Why would your gums be on fire? Is that a thing that happens?
None of the EMT classes or WEMT classes discussed that. Werner, neither you, Dill or Page ever said anything about burning gums.
So, Toker Villain is really run out and trying to make a lasso move. He's got the rope in his toothless gums and a 30 foot loop for the lasso move. Well he's a little stressed about the situation and he's toking on a substantial bob marley. He's climbing with Ron in BFE Nevada and someone spilled white lightning on the rope. Toker makes the lasso move and starts the tension traverse over a substantial abyss. The doobage goes out mid traverse and in the process of relighting it his gums light on fire. I still don't see it. Seems like a reach. And how are you supposed to piss up that far anyway?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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How did you know I was an Egyptologist?
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Flip Flop
climber
salad bowl, california
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I can smell burning papyrus a mile away.
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NASH
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
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Toker-
Thank you for throwing me under the bus. My PM to you was unwarranted and immature. I was unaware of the Taco and its banter. My skin is not a thick as yours so please, accept my apology. My mouth is wide open awaiting that golden stream to snuff out my fiery gums. - pissgums
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