A bunch of V16 ego baloney.

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GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Mar 19, 2015 - 10:55am PT

DPM is SOLID!

Killer K

Boulder climber

Sacramento, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 01:19pm PT

No doubt those are some hard moves on small holds and worth the effort. Ondra himself called the boulder "un-impressive" to look at and not very aesthetic. The impressive part is the movement.

The part that cracks me up is classic status of an eliminate. You could take a foothold off of a few V14/15 problems and probably turn them into a so called V16.

Not that grades matter to anyone right? I heard that in the broad spectrum, climbing rocks in general falls somewhere between bowling and basket weaving in importance.

But it sure is fun to partake and analyze and critique.

I agree with the change in thread name.... I should of gone with Classy Italians or Hey! That foots not on!

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Mar 19, 2015 - 01:22pm PT

I should of gone with Classy Italians or Hey! That foots not on!

Now you're interfering with my Indian Rock memories of 40-45 years ago.

John

Killer K

Boulder climber

Sacramento, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 01:58pm PT

Or "The Gioia of Glueing"

crøtch

climber

Mar 19, 2015 - 02:28pm PT

Will somebody please restore the low right foot scoop at the start of Stem Gem? I'm not getting any younger and I need that tick for my 8a scorecard.

Kalimon

Social climber

Ridgway, CO

Mar 19, 2015 - 06:14pm PT

"Ratings don't mean sh#t."

drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Mar 20, 2015 - 02:28pm PT

Bouldering and free solo are the purest forms of climbing imo and part of that purity is to take what nature gives us. Glue is not part of the natural way. For that matter any creating/manufacturing of fake holds or in this case destroying holds for any reason other than, possibly in the rare case, safety, is not part of letting nature take its course. Since "Gluia" needed glue to be held together then it is not that "classic" to me. If my fellow American boulderers found a new foothold that made it easier for them well then schucks that's just part of the game :) The mental part of climbing is to find your own beta and your own way to do the climb using whatever you can get your hands and feet on. The path of least resistance or the path with only the solid holds you need, within reach, are the truly most classic and pure lines.

The fact that "Gluia" needed to be reinforced with glue to begin with makes it no surprise to me that there would be a foothold that crumbles in or out of existence. It sets a dangerous precedent and is a bad influence if a top notch climber in the limelight on such a world famous line is not at least discredited in some way for doing this so it discourages others from damaging the rock and imho, taking away from what climbing is all about. First ascents are always harder to do then repeats but that doesn't mean we have to change the game in order to force everyone to do things our way and try to force nature not to change. Change is inevitable.