Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
I will be in the Moab area for the last two weeks of april...would love meet a bunch of you and also get on some wide. Been wanting to do the Big Baby ???
Jeff
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
Jim, can you help me out with some information?
After reading though the David Bloom climbing guide, I am wavering about doing this trip, because it seems like most of the moderate routes are fist and off-width. Which I really do not enjoy all that much. For someone with small hands like me, typical male fist cracks routes are shaky offwidth. I'm too old and my climbing years are too short now to drive that far and spend that much time and money to do a type of climbing I don't love.
Are there thin hand, hand and finger cracks in the mid-5.10ish range (or under) in the areas we are planning to go to? Areas that would be the equivalent of Cookie or Reed's areas?
This sure sounds like a fun gathering and there are people going I'd love to hang with, but it would help to have some more info...
Thanks, Phyl
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
|
Phylp....not to worry there are PLENTY of moderate red camalot cracks rated 5.10 that would be 5.9 in Yosemite. Every crag that we will go to has several, if not more, climbs in that category.
Women love the Creek for the ego boost involved. So many of the ratings are based on manhands. Women can get a bigger number without too much effort.
Your presence is damn near required to keep the campfire ambience from being too testosterone fueled. Just kidding....you've seen the list.....good suspects all!
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
Thanks Jim. I'll see you and Angela there.
|
|
ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
|
|
Phylp-So not true at all. You would kind of have to hunt for off widths whilst ignoring TONS of hands, perfect hands, large hands, tight hands, you name it.
There are more sandstone cracks available in every size than anyplace you'll probably ever visit, promise. It's the place to get good at cracks in the sizes you choose to rack up for. Don't miss it.
Jim knows where all the classics are and you'll be plenty tuckered out in the evening anyway.
Arne
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
Arne, see you Saturday night! phyl
|
|
Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
|
|
As long as I can find some 5.fun stuff for the wifey and myself, it will be all good. Not sure if there is any 5.6-7 stuff there but I'm sure we will figure something out :) mainly going for the technique tips and especially the campfire tales!
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
^^^^^ Dooooood, YOU need a haircut.
|
|
nature
climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
I won't even get to climb for SushiFest. oh well... hopefully we can huck a few birds or wings from camp.
psyched for the time off though!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
|
Yep....South Six Shooter 5.7 is a great day out. Beautiful hike thru the desert followed by a fun climb to a tower summit with a worldclass view.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Are there any cool spires we can climb so that one team is on one and another team is on the other? I would love to take some photos of some other climbers climbing something cool and the other way around! WOuld be a fun group outing.
Would allow to pick up groceries in town and have a feast back at camp that evening. :)
|
|
Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
|
|
Cool, thanks for the info - will check it out.
And I will still be vaping, but if you didn't know, I had 2 busted tendons when y'all were in Vegas Mr. NotBurch. Just starting to climb again.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Vit, So Six Shooter has two summits. Probably too easy for you, though.....
Phyl, no worries, plenty of stuff in the size and rating you're
looking for, especially if you do some climbing in metro Moab as well as the creek, as an example, ancient art is 5.8 A0, ask Daphne how fun she thought it was!
|
|
Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
|
|
South Sixshooter was what occurred to me also, Jaybro, since it has the two summits. There regular route is (classic intimidating desert) 5.6 but there are 10's and 9's on on it as well providing good mutual photo ops.
But you knew that.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Rectory and Castleton face each other right?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Gosh moose, can you stop sending me all that porn?! What a perv... ;)
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
They do. But you would need to do the no face of castleton and have a long lens, if you want to be able to ID a team on say, fine jade
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2015 - 07:30am PT
|
Vitaliy, one of the great things about the Creek is it's conviviality.....from climbing to campfire. We seem to have the appropriate group size to posse up for two different venues in a given day and all share a single campfire in the evening.
With that in mind, I want a private group campsite. There are three potential ones that fit our needs. I will choose one by 4/24 and put the directions on this thread.
|
|
nature
climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
are these private groups camps ones i'm aware of and would the work for SushiFest? Right now I'm aiming at the big one at cottonwoods.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!