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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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Seems to me like our hero clipped the beaner in facing the wrong way. When clipping a bolt with a quickdraw, or with anything really, if the direction of pull is going right (as in the top photo) always clip the beaner facing away from the direction of pull. At least that is what I always believed. Wouldn't that have done the trick here?
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213050
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Feb 28, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
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Looks like 2 editor notes at the bottom, both correct. Not really much more to say.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 28, 2015 - 05:47pm PT
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Well...here's part of the AAC analysis:
Quickdraws should be assembled with both carabiner gates oriented in the same direction, and draws should be clipped so the gates are oriented away from the direction of travel.
Sounds like they sorta nailed it to me...
The AAC is SWOLE!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
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I know! My question was more along the lines of "the dude writes his own accident analysis and totally misses the actual root cause?!" I mean wtf
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 28, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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After a quick consult...
Which morphs into:
And, we see the rope sneakin' away from the gate all the while "in direction of travel":
Great advice from the first edition:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 28, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
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Solid bibliographic research.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 28, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
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Actually on steep rock clipping bolts the biner in the hanger should face away, the bentgate on the rope should face in. Screw around with it you'll see what I mean.
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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