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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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Sandstone is fun too...
But it's not the most solid rock.
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Feb 27, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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Joshua Tree razor sharp granite!
What are ya, a wuss?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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It's all good if it's all good :) chert, gneiss, volcanic tuff etc etc..
I love my local and very rare Blue Schist but mainly for me it's simple;
Limestone sport climbing (pairs perfectly with reggae or mellow hip hop)
Sandstone bouldering (pairs perfect with techno or rap/hip hop)
Granite trad climbing (pairs with classical or old school rock-n-roll)
~jus my 2 cents.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
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Big Mike--was that the Crack of Doom @ the City? That thing damn near killed me. I thought I would just put in some fists and bust it on up-NOT! that thing chewed me swallowed me and then barfed me out. I was so blown I was coughing and wheezing for about a half hour after.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 27, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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Dingus- Yes. See explanation up thread.
Hobo- Yeah it was! Hardly Visible led Morning Glory chimney next to it, and we rapped over it. I heard most of the difficulties were at the start?
here's another view.
Crack Of Doom - City of Rocks
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Feb 27, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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The Taft Granite...to be specific.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
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Rock climbing is segmented....rock types lend themselves to that.
Give me:
Limestone for sport.
Sandstone for cracks.
Basalt for stemming.
Granite/gneiss for multi pitch and alpine.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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^^^
But what do you Boulder on Donini?!?!
I'll say Font again, if you've been you probably agree. If you have been and you don't agree I'd love to hear how this is possible?!?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2015 - 11:54am PT
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Not just the geology, but the petrology (the makeup of the rock) is what makes sandstone worthless in one place and incredible in another.
I would like to see an article about the geology of what our fingers and feet have all touched. I'm not up for it. As I said, I deal with sedimentary rocks exclusively, and buried under thousands of feet of overlying rock.
Somebody should do it.
Wiki is interesting if you are climbing an interesting rock, like schist or gneiss.
The Wingate is not a typical sandstone. Most sedimentary rocks were preserved in shoreline environments. Wingate is an ancient desert. The dunes were huge. That is why it is so massive, thick, and without horizontal breaks. A lot of the rocks on the Colorado plateau are like that.
Limestone is hot among sport climbers because it easily forms caves, and caves are where it is at. It weathers into a nice texture, filled with holds-even the mono's that we Sharma doing dynos off of.
Other than Rifle, the U.S. isn't that blessed with limestone. Europe is, particularly Spain. You can see how it weathers. For one, it is soluble in rain water over time, and creates tufas and interesting features to climb on.
In the long run, though, limestone is such a soft rock that holds get slippery with use. It has a hardness of 3, harder than talc and gypsum.
Quartzite is an interesting rock that often gets mis-identified. All it is is sandstone that has been cooked. It becomes much harder than the original sandstone. I mapped some incredible quartzite in Colorado back in school. It wasn't high enough to climbe, but I've heard that some of the new areas climb on it.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Feb 28, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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The Best Rock For Climbing On Earth?
Someplace that is still off the radar, hasn't been written up in the mags yet or been beaten to death by beta on the intertubes.
There are thousands of routes and boulders to climb, the camping and access are free and your Mom is back at camp with dinner ready.
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