Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2015 - 09:40am PT
|
I always loved climbing in Eldorado Canyon. It wasn't too far from home and is normally very hard for sandstone..like it was heated and is slightly metamorphic. There are a ton of great routes on nigh perfect rock.
The color looks like Fountain Formation. I had to map a lot of that down south in the Canon City Embayment during field geology, but it is like kitty litter down there.
Great routes. Very little choss. Short hikes.
Josh is also good. Obviously Yosemtie is good. Never been to the gunks or sport climbed.
Still, I pick Eldo.
|
|
Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 09:42am PT
|
When you get into clean pegmatite in the Teton Range, it's like climber's candy.
Rich Jones
|
|
EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 09:48am PT
|
From a tactile standpoint, Southern Sandstone wins. T-wall, Obed, NRG
|
|
Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 09:52am PT
|
Of the places I've been---Buttermilks. Hands down.
|
|
The Alpine
climber
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 09:53am PT
|
Best ROCK or best AREA?
For granite, nothing really compares to the needles.
As mentioned above, if you want the finest sandstone, head to the south.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 09:59am PT
|
What, no love for limestone? Come on, nothing like good limestone, unless you like lots of pro
and you aren't into sport noobing.
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:11am PT
|
I have a great fondness for Tuolumne knobs. Nothing is quite as much fun.
|
|
steve s
Trad climber
eldo
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:15am PT
|
Kalymnos,Greece . its the best rock for sport climbing, kinda trippy features. For trad Eldo sandstone or Yosemite granite(especially Toulomne). For semi alpine rock the granite at Elephants Perch is hard to beat. These types of rock are great but its all good as long as its not to chossy.
Side note mention for Stanage grit and Devils lake quartzite, great rock but too short. now puke steve sangdahl
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:19am PT
|
Surprised you did not mention Quartz.
There are also some good climbs in Florida.
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:19am PT
|
Duh
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:20am PT
|
all those plates and chicken heads on the SoYo granite!
|
|
crøtch
climber
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:26am PT
|
There are a few places I've been where it seemed like the rock HAD to be climbed because the holds are just tooooo good:
Indian Creek
Kalymnos (my limestone experience is limited)
Happy Boulders
Red Rock
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 10:32am PT
|
Buttermilks? No way. I used to boulder there every day, and while it is nicely featured for granite, it isn't as fun as the tuff in the Happy's. I never climbed at Smith, but I think it is also tuff.
Limestone is obviously the most popular sport climbing rock in the world. Calcite has a hardness of only 3, though, so it must show signs of wear after a while. It is soluble in rainwater, so in humid areas you get caves and such, and caves are where it is at.
I remember reading something in a mag about how somebody liked climbing on gneiss. Geez. Most climbers really have only a vague idea of what rock they are on. Gneiss is normally like kitty litter.
I've often thought of writing a story for the mags about the geology of different rock, but I'm hopelessly mired in sedimentary rocks these days. I haven't worked a metamorphic rock in 30 years.....
Still, most people don't understand the mineral assemblages, grain size, and basic petrology of what they are on, despite the fact that they are on it every day.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:33am PT
|
Southern Yosemite.
This just in dropped the proof.
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 10:35am PT
|
The Cochise Stronghold has really long routes on those granite dinner plates. I'm not sure how they form. I assume that weathering creates a tough skin. Then that skin gets dissected and the separate plates appear.
Desert Varnish is getting some research. I read that it is partially the result of bacteria living on the surface of the sandstone.
Best ROCK or best AREA?
Both, really. I mentioned Eldo as my favorite. I preferred it to Boulder Canyon hands down.
The Needles have always looked incredible, partly because of the beautiful yellow lichen. It takes great photos, so there have been a ton of Needles photos published over the years.
|
|
WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:37am PT
|
The phonolite porphyry of Devils Tower has a pleasant appealing texture. It is my favorite.
|
|
Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:55am PT
|
"Gneiss is normally like kitty litter."
My recollection is that much of what we climb on in the Teton Range is Gneiss. If so, it's the best damn kitty litter on the planet :)
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 11:07am PT
|
Desert Varnish is getting some research. I read that it is partially the result of bacteria living on the surface of the sandstone.
Interesting.
|
|
Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 11:15am PT
|
Tahquitz
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!