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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
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I bought a set of large(1.5"-3") Metolius hexes a few years back when building up my rack. I have only used them a handful of times and mostly find them awkward to carry and hard to find placements for. Am I missing something or are they pretty much obsolete?
Thoughts? Any resale value here?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:32pm PT
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They are good to start with, because you have to think about, and learn to recognize, good placements. This knowledge will make your cam placements better. Since cams go more places, it's not always clear, what is, or isn't, a good placement.
I rarely use them now, however, from this weekend...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
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When!!!
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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I use them for bail gear.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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It's nicer to bail on a few hexes than on a few cams. When I want to be lighter/cheaper and might need to leave something behind, I like to have hexes (only in the bigger sizes- smaller sizes I find nuts work better). Or when climbing in different situations (e.g. with kids or newbies), it's fun to use them to keep up the excitement level.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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And you can always say....NutAgain!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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Mostly just the stoppers, but on some climbs a hex is needed....
Like close to the top of Course and Buggy in Josh, that #8 placed on its end fitts the bump, you can't get that placement with a cam...
And I think when your starten out, stoppers and hexes teach you to really look at the shape of the stone....
whatever you have in your shot... don't know about them.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
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hell yeah i use hexes, they work great. Too bulky for a rack, but for tr anchors they are strong, reliable and have no moving parts. Plus the larger ones are an effective self defense device
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
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Cool photos T Hocking.
Seems like people prefer to have a nylon sling rather than a wired hex, whats the school of thought there? I suppose I will have to give them a second chance. They do make that pleasing sound when they are banging together on a approach.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
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Sorry... I like hexes. Depending on what climb I'm on. Get old school yo'. I also have been laughed at. Frickin' teenagers. ;-)
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Gene
climber
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Feb 25, 2015 - 05:08pm PT
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There is nothing quite like the clanging of hexes on your rack on the walk up and down from the crag. It's music.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 05:32pm PT
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They do make that pleasing sound when they are banging together on a approach.
I basically stopped using them for a decade when a partner from New Zealand used to say "put away those F@cking bumbly bells" every time I started to rack 'em up ;)
I hate using ones with wires because the wires tend to move them out of position more than slings.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 25, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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I got a fever, and the only prescription is more cowbell.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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They do make that pleasing sound when they are banging together on a approach. [Click to View YouTube Video]
I think better advice for beginning trad leaders is to *borrow* a set of hexes.
From one of the many trad leaders who has realized they aren't worth having on the rack anymore.
I lent mine and later gave them away (to beginning trad leaders),
except for a sentimental self-drilled #7 (from my high school days in the early 70s).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
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I still carry #1-#3 old style on a wire and an updated #4 & #5.
Great dump nuts low on a pitch if you need to conserve your selection and much cheaper than most other nuts should you nee to leave anything to bail.
Very useful on sandstone too if you aren't in the realm of the parallel.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 25, 2015 - 07:51pm PT
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I do that too, Steve G. I carry three or four totally worn down old wired # 1s & 2s one each ofthe three, four five and six well those last two are redundant pieces.
Then I get wierd I like Clog Wabs they look a lot like the OP's New "Hexs", but have thicker walls , I can't post a picture right now .
I also carry the smallest Tri cams stiffend for better control while reaching to place,they are roughly the same size as the two & 3 hex.
, three pinks one filed down and the same with the red slings,#1s one ground down, The custom, ground pieces,are for a few .11s in the Gunks and the outlying hills. Almost all of my gear is at least twenty years old, I did upgrade my # 3 -zero tcu's to aliens and a couple x4s.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
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Feb 25, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
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Not usually. I used to carry some around all the time when I was starting out, and I always made a point of trying to place them. These days I seem to carry as little as possible, which usually includes leaving the hexes behind. I don't often carry my tricams either, even though I love those damn things. Only when I think I will really use/need.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 25, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
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Was climbing with mixed rack until about 1996.
Then a better climber asked me, "Why are you doing that?"
I couldn't answer quickly.
1. Once you finally get them in, they feel much safer.
2. The pleasing sound of the larger one's clinking together as you walk.
That's about it.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Feb 25, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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Yep. Sometimes they're just the ticket.
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